Has anyone used the tool to hold lifters up for cam change?

Mstng93SSP

You have a nice rear end there Dave.
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Nov 29, 1999
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I'm about to do another cam swap. I have done many, but this time I am going to try the tool that holds the lifters up so you don't have to pull the lower intake. Has anyone done it with this tool? (Basically magnetic rods). Any tips?

Chris
 
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I'm about to do another cam swap. I have done many, but this time I am going to try the tool that holds the lifters up so you don't have to pull the lower intake. Has anyone done it with this tool? (Basically magnetic rods). Any tips?

Chris
Maybe I’m missing something but If you have the stock tray and dog bones how will the lifter come up out of the bore with them in place ?
 
I believe the tool just allows all the lifters to be in the up position.
I had asked my buddy about it years ago, he told me it slowed him down.
Mind you, I am speaking of a guy that would pull heads at the race track, so i'm not completely sure it translates to home mechanics.
 
Me too, but with these magnetic rods apparently I will not have to pull the lower intake which is why it is appealing to me. Done it 10 or 20 times the conventional way, just wanted to try it this way and see how it goes.

Chris
 
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This interests me too. I didn't think the lifters would go high enough to clear the bearing journals without removing the guides and spider brace. Could be wrong 'cause I've never checked that. If that tool works it will simplify my life a whole lot.
 
Great......now dropping the lifter is all I can think about......:oops:

I'm trying to think this through. If a lifter does drop, will it go into the oil pan? Would I be able to get it out with a long magnet through the front with the timing cover off?
 
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This shows it in use https://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2002/07/camswap/

I ordered the one from LMR
Just skimmed through the link , looks like it's even a bigger benefit to someone running link bars (me).
Never really thought about it but you can't pull link bar style lifters out without removing the heads,
in that case this makes a ton of sense.

*Edit*
Never mind, in my case with a 351w base strokers taller deck height they could be removed w/heads on
but for 302w and link bars it would save having to remove heads.
I think anyways....too early need more coffee !!!
 
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This interests me too. I didn't think the lifters would go high enough to clear the bearing journals without removing the guides and spider brace. Could be wrong 'cause I've never checked that. If that tool works it will simplify my life a whole lot.
I mentioned that too .
 
Just skimmed through the link , looks like it's even a bigger benefit to someone running link bars (me).
Never really thought about it but you can't pull link bar style lifters out without removing the heads,
in that case this makes a ton of sense.

*Edit*
Never mind, in my case with a 351w base strokers taller deck height they could be removed w/heads on
but for 302w and link bars it would save having to remove heads.
I think anyways....too early need more coffee !!!
In this case absolutely . I can attest to this.
 
Yeah, if the motor's in the car, then I assume you'd have to pull the pan. If the motor is on an engine stand, then I would spin the motor so that gravity is working to keep the lifter in its bore, in addition to having the magnets. Then, you can just grab it again, if necessary. Just thinking out loud here. Never done it, obviously.
 
This interests me too. I didn't think the lifters would go high enough to clear the bearing journals without removing the guides and spider brace. Could be wrong 'cause I've never checked that. If that tool works it will simplify my life a whole lot.

That is a very good point. However, I will say this, the cam lobes on my Trick Flow 3 stuck out farther than the cam journals. So the guides allowed the lifter to come up higher than the journal. I imagine it would work based on this.

Kurt
 
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I have a spare engine on an engine stand. I am going to pull the intake, a valve cover and pushrod and take a look at how the tool works, how far I can raise a lifter etc. I will measure the rod when the lifter is up and mark all the remaining rods the same so I know how far to lift up the lifters. THEN I will do it on the engine in my car that I am swapping cams on. I feel better doing it this way. The engine on the stand is just a spare complete stock 93 5.0 engine. I will take pictures/video of the process.
 
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