having an issue!!

My initial reaction is that your TPS sensor is bad.

I agree with Dagger, definately sounds like the TPS, or an intake gasket leak(but you said it wasnt that). My buddies 97 Ranger with the 4.0L had the same problem, it idled real bad, and almost stalled out all the time and it was the lower intake gasket all the way in the back by the fire wall. Replaced it and it was good to go! good luck!

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/





IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.



89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.



Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

No codes other that the 11 code which is system OK, look for vacuum leaks. The hard plasctic lines get very brittle and break. Inspect every inch of the plastic vacuum tubing, particularly around the connections. Rubber vacuum hose is a perfectly acceptible subistitute for the plastic lines. If you are picky about retaining the OEM look of the plastic lines, the plastic tubing is also available.

I have honestly never replaced a tps sensor in my life and that was a lotta stangs

I had a similar sounding problem to this...It was idling strangely and would almost stall but not quite..

Looked up and down and finally tacked it down to the TAD or TAB solenoid.I forgot which one it was.Its parts of the emissions system and they (both solenoids) located behind the passenger side strut tower.

My guess is that it was stuck and diverting air incorrectly in turn simulating a vacuum leak in a way.

The way I tested it was I disconnected the vacumm hose from the solenoid while the car was running and simply plugged it.I instantly heard the car level out and idle smooth.

Just an idea for you..

Remember.Tracking down these issues can be annoying but,the answer is right around the corner dude...hang in there!