• Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 2.3L (N/A & Turbo) Tech

Head Gasket replacement Now water in the oil

  • Thread starter Thread starter kilgorq
  • Start date Start date Aug 14, 2006

kilgorq

Member
Jul 19, 2006
77
1
8
Boise Idaho
Aug 14, 2006
#1
  • Aug 14, 2006
  • #1
My 2.3 blew the head gasket between cylinders 1and 2... I took the head in and had it shaved because it was also a little warped (Borderline to even need shaved). I got the time to put it all back together this weekend. No problem with reassembly except a missing exhaust manifold bolt. Plus no timing marks so I could align the crank to the cam. I found a couple of pictures on the internet and got it close. I started it and it sounded like it was detonating a little. Only when I reved the motor. So I moved it 1 tooth and that cleared up and it ran great. Keep in mind I have not added water yet. But have not run it for more that 2 Minutes. So I adjust the timing and fuel air mixture. Running great, smooth at 700 RPM. It has a little carb miss but that is it. OK Add water all is good. I let it run for about 10 minutes and watch for the thermostat to open. It works great. So I took it for a drive around the block. It Ran OK for a severly underpowered motor. But still smooth. I get it back into the garage and notice some water coming out of the overfill by the radiator cap... Not really spraying out just running out like you turn on a faucet 1/16 the way. OK Why??? I will figure it out. Now the car is running, temperature is normal on the gauge and feels normal when I touch the head. Keep in mind this repair has only been running for about 20 minutes now. and only 10-15 of that with water in it... SO Basically we are starting to get up to normal operating temperature. I am looking at the breather on the oil cap and it looks like it has a little blowby... SO I stuck my hand by it and noticed 2 things the first was the it was not pulsating like you would see with blowby and it was not oil smoke it was steam... and it was not very hot steam either. Not hot enough to burn or even feel very warm to the touch... OK I have some problem. so I turn it off and check the oil... it is Milky ... what went wrong... now for the interesting part... Compression is basically 120 to 130 across the board...
HEAD SCRATCH!!! http://forums.stangnet.com/images/smilies/banghead.gif:bang: (not the one on my car) what else could cause steam to come from the oil filler cap like that??? My first thought was intake manifold but that doesn't fit because there are no oil passages in intake. Crack in head ? Blown gasket. There was not one when I took it off. Only blown between 1 and 2. Plus wouldn't compression test show that? Wrong Gasket? Maybe but problem should have shown up sooner I would think. Water left over from tanking head??? Dunno about that one. Head sat for 3 weeks before I put it all together.

HELP!!! PLEASE!!! I AM STUMPED ON THIS ONE!!!
 
R

RustBucket

New Member
Jun 8, 2003
585
0
0
Buford, GA
Aug 14, 2006
#2
  • Aug 14, 2006
  • #2
You either boogered up the gasket when you put the head down on the motor, or you didn't use thread sealant on the head bolts.

Did you change the oil before you fired up after the head gasket swap? You could have dumped residual water in the head down the oil passages when removing the head.
 

kilgorq

Member
Jul 19, 2006
77
1
8
Boise Idaho
Aug 14, 2006
#3
  • Aug 14, 2006
  • #3
Sealent on the head bolts I have never heard of. Residual water may be possible. I am confident in that I did not damage the gasket. I set it on the alignment pins first and then down on the motor.

I also noticed that the water level is low... Down to about half a radiator full.

Head bolt sealent? Do the head bolts go into the water jacket some how?

Are there any things I could test bfore I take the head back off ? Besides compression.
 

88stangmangt

Active Member
Nov 25, 2003
2,332
1
48
Stafford,VA
Aug 14, 2006
#4
  • Aug 14, 2006
  • #4
kilgorq said:
Sealent on the head bolts I have never heard of. Residual water may be possible. I am confident in that I did not damage the gasket. I set it on the alignment pins first and then down on the motor.

I also noticed that the water level is low... Down to about half a radiator full.

Head bolt sealent? Do the head bolts go into the water jacket some how?

Are there any things I could test bfore I take the head back off ? Besides compression.
Click to expand...
I dont think the Head bolts go into the WJ'S but you could have a out of square block...i would pressure test your cooling system next.
 

kilgorq

Member
Jul 19, 2006
77
1
8
Boise Idaho
Aug 15, 2006
#5
  • Aug 15, 2006
  • #5
Giving some serious thought to just selling it as it... I would take any reasonable offer... It is in very good shape with the exception of the motor. I just went through the transmission also...

I just dont have the time or money to take this on... If I keep it I will spend too much time and money making it fast...
 

kilgorq

Member
Jul 19, 2006
77
1
8
Boise Idaho
Aug 15, 2006
#6
  • Aug 15, 2006
  • #6
kilgorq said:
Giving some serious thought to just selling it as it... I would take any reasonable offer... It is in very good shape with the exception of the motor. I just went through the transmission also...

I just dont have the time or money to take this on... If I keep it I will spend too much time and money making it fast...
Click to expand...


Also forgot. The head is bad... The gasket was good...
 

rd

Founding Member
Jan 12, 2000
3,316
63
109
Ocean Springs MS
Aug 15, 2006
#7
  • Aug 15, 2006
  • #7
If the compression is good on all 4, I would run it and warm it up.

It could be just residual coolant or water in the oil pan, etc from the blow out. I have seen this several times.

I would not, however, have even started it w/o coolant. It may not have actually hurt, but it does risk resurecting the problems with the head gasket.

If it has good compression, and you have fully filled and bled the cooing system, it should run and warm up to normal temperature, and clear up.

Otherwise, more investigating is needed.

I am really interested in what you find, as I have 3, or maybe 4 2.3 cars in my backyard with some version of blown headgaskets, or cracked heads. Have not gotten to checking them out yet.
 

kilgorq

Member
Jul 19, 2006
77
1
8
Boise Idaho
Aug 21, 2006
#8
  • Aug 21, 2006
  • #8
ISSUE RESOLVED!!!

rd said:
If the compression is good on all 4, I would run it and warm it up.

It could be just residual coolant or water in the oil pan, etc from the blow out. I have seen this several times.

I would not, however, have even started it w/o coolant. It may not have actually hurt, but it does risk resurecting the problems with the head gasket.

If it has good compression, and you have fully filled and bled the cooing system, it should run and warm up to normal temperature, and clear up.

Otherwise, more investigating is needed.

I am really interested in what you find, as I have 3, or maybe 4 2.3 cars in my backyard with some version of blown headgaskets, or cracked heads. Have not gotten to checking them out yet.
Click to expand...


ISSUE RESOLVED:

The head bolts were bottoming out... They were torqued to spec but were too long ( BOTTOMING OUT) after I had the head shaved. I added some HEAD BOLT WASHERS from a motor with an aluminum head and wow it fixed it... Thanks to the machinist that shaved the head. He got me going in the right direction. Too bad he didn't metion that in the first place. but it is fixed now. He must have shaved an awfull lot off of the head to make this happen.

What is the the limit for this head?
 

bhuff30

Founding Member
Dec 11, 2001
6,037
35
129
Olathe KS
Aug 26, 2006
#9
  • Aug 26, 2006
  • #9
wow, that's quite the trip. I would have never guessed the bolts would be bottoming out.

How far you can mill it, is only limited by the octane of your fuel. The head can be milled about .120 or so, and give nearly 12:1 compression... but that is best left to the circle trackers who run race gas.

kilgorq said:
ISSUE RESOLVED:

The head bolts were bottoming out... They were torqued to spec but were too long ( BOTTOMING OUT) after I had the head shaved. I added some HEAD BOLT WASHERS from a motor with an aluminum head and wow it fixed it... Thanks to the machinist that shaved the head. He got me going in the right direction. Too bad he didn't metion that in the first place. but it is fixed now. He must have shaved an awfull lot off of the head to make this happen.

What is the the limit for this head?
Click to expand...
 

kilgorq

Member
Jul 19, 2006
77
1
8
Boise Idaho
Aug 26, 2006
#10
  • Aug 26, 2006
  • #10
Well she is running great now. I am getting aroud 26MPG and decent power now. I had to tweak the carb and timing a little to get it dialed in. I would say this car had seen a bad mechanic some time in its past. My Hundred dollar GEM the nicest car I own and now it actually gets close to the MPG of my 87 Honda Accord Beater... And runs a lot better. I still have 1 oil leak to track down and some Suspension parts to replace but for a car that books out at $1800 I will have less than $500 in it when I am done... Not too bad at all I would say...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
Engine Another no start after washing engine bay
  • bruno
  • Apr 26, 2026
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
  • 2
Replies
24
Views
731
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech May 7, 2026
AeroCoupe
L
Car has been overheating. Not sure what is causing it. Any help would be appreciated.
  • Luckysgirl
  • Jun 2, 2026
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
Replies
2
Views
129
1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- Jun 2, 2026
Luckysgirl
L
S
Mach 1 iac valve in a 4.6 gt
  • solodriverz
  • Jun 3, 2026
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech
Replies
1
Views
87
SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech Jun 5, 2026
squeak93
6
Hey all,I’m putting together a 302 for my 1968 Mustang and wanted to post the combo + some questions to make sure I’m not missing crucial
  • 68_Disgustang
  • Feb 22, 2026
  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
Replies
4
Views
913
1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk- Jun 20, 2026
gray owl
G
B
2001 SVT Cobra Overheating Issue
  • bradencaron0
  • May 8, 2025
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
Replies
1
Views
214
1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- May 8, 2025
Noobz347
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 2.3L (N/A & Turbo) Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?