Head Gaskets

JD1964 · Jan 8, 2016

This is an extension of my other thread Murphys Law where I talked about coolant blowing out the overflow.

As already stated, the T-stat checked out good so that's not the culprit. It must be loosing gasket seal under boost. I did a cranking compression test a all cylinders are consistent in the 120psi range. I'm not even going to bother with a leak down test as I believe it wont tell anything. Simply not enough pressure under the testing conditions to duplicate the problem.

Below are the cranking test results.

Now for the gasket decision. I've heard two types discussed here and there. Cometic and Felpro 9333. Which should I go with? I'm pretty sure whats on there now if Felpro 8548PT2 and I reused the TTY bolts like a fool. I'm getting APR stud kit this time around.

JD1964 · Jan 8, 2016

rippin into it

RangerJoe · Jan 9, 2016

We're you leaking coolant out of that front water port?

I say go with the fel pro gasket. Let the gasket pop before the block.

Joe

mikestang63 · Jan 9, 2016

unless your head and deck surface is prepped for the cometic, it will leak, Go with the 9333pt1. It;s been used on thousands of cars . I also agree that you want the HG to be the fuse in the system.

jrichker · Jan 9, 2016

The Ford factory manual make no mention of TTY bolts, the original bolts are reusable. on pushrod Ford v8 engines.

The cylinder head bolts are reusable, but some new ARP bolts are a better plan. Be aware that the ARP bolts have a radiused shank under the bolt head. The ARP washers have a matching radius machined into them. Be sure that the machined radius of the washer is fitted next to the machined radius on the ARP bolt heads. Forget this little fact and you will never get the head bolts to torque down properly.

Coat the underside of all bolt heads with anti seize and the threads of the long bolts. The short bolts thread directly into the water jacket and need a different treatment. Use Teflon Pipe dope on the threads of the short head bolts. It will prevent any coolant seepage from around the threads. You can get the Teflon pipe dope from the hardware stores, Home Depot or Lowes.

The head bolts are torqued in 2 steps:
step 1.) 55-65 ft/lb
step 65-72 ft/lb

jrichker · Jan 9, 2016

The Ford factory manual make no mention of TTY bolts, the original bolts are reusable on pushrod Ford v8 engines.

Be aware that the ARP bolts have a radiused shank under the bolt head. The ARP washers have a matching radius machined into them. Be sure that the machined radius of the washer is fitted next to the machined radius on the ARP bolt heads. Forget this little fact and you will never get the head bolts to torque down properly.

Coat the underside of all bolt heads with anti seize and the threads of the long bolts. The short bolts thread directly into the water jacket and need a different treatment. Use Teflon Pipe dope on the threads of the short head bolts. It will prevent any coolant seepage from around the threads. You can get the Teflon pipe dope from the hardware stores, Home Depot or Lowes.

The head bolts are torqued in 2 steps:
step 1.) 55-65 ft/lb
step 65-72 ft/lb
if you use aftermarket pars for the cylinder head bolts, head gaskets or cylinder heads, use the aftermarket parts supplier's torque values if they supply them.

JD1964 · Jan 10, 2016

RangerJoe said:
We're you leaking coolant out of that front water port?

Not sure if coolant was leaking at the front water port. If so it was minor. I have not been back in the garage since I pulled the intake and that was at the end of the evening so I didnt do any detailed inspection. I can see how the gasket looks bad. I'll have a closer look when I get back in there. There has never been any signs of coolant contamination in the crankcase, that I know.

JD1964 · Jan 10, 2016

jrichker said:
The Ford factory manual make no mention of TTY bolts, the original bolts are reusable. on pushrod Ford v8 engines.

Really? Several of the forum members made it clear that I made a big mistake by reusing the factory head bolts when I originally swapped the GT40 heads on. I'll be using ARP studs this time due to the boosted application. Whether I made a mistake the first time around or not, I can say that the head gasket seal held up for more than a year while naturally aspirated. There was no failure until the boost was added.

a91what · Jan 10, 2016

When you put the intake on run some rtv around the water passages, this will ensure that they seal as well.
When I put all my intakes on I get some threaded rod from the hardware store and cut studs for the corner bolts, this let's me get the intake on square with no slippage. Just put a few bolts in it, pull the studs out and proceed as normal after that.

jrichker · Jan 10, 2016

John Dirks Jr said:
Really? Several of the forum members made it clear that I made a big mistake by reusing the factory head bolts when I originally swapped the GT40 heads on. I'll be using ARP studs this time due to the boosted application. Whether I made a mistake the first time around or not, I can say that the head gasket seal held up for more than a year while naturally aspirated. There was no failure until the boost was added.

Here's a copy of the Factory Ford 89 Mustang manual page for cylinder heads. Notice there are instructions to discard used gaskets , but none to discard the cylinder head bolts.

Both Chilton and Haynes manuals are the same as Original Ford Factory service manual the in regard to the cylinder head bolts; there is no mention of TTY (Torque To Yield) bolts for pushrod 5.0 engines

Score :
Factory Ford 89 Mustang manual 1
Unfounded wild guesses 0

Your next purchase should be an original Ford Factory service manual or a Chilton service manual. They will save you the time and money that they cost.
Original Ford Factory service manuals are available
See Helm Incorporated: Product Search Engine

rd · Jan 10, 2016

Common Ford and aftermarket small block head bolts have never been torque to yield, and are reusable.

Studs would be a good upgrade with boost, and also if the engine comes apart often.

JD1964 · Jan 10, 2016

I don't want to get in the habit of changing head gaskets. This time I'm getting ARP stud kit, Felpro 9333 instead of 8548. I also need a better tq wrench. In the past, I've done a dozen head gasket jobs using my non brand name beam style tq wrench and never had a failure until this boosted application, but I think I should upgrade.

What is an adequate tq wrench at a decent price? I'm not partial to clicker or beam type as long as the accuracy is good. Of course, proper technique is always important no matter what the tool.

jrichker · Jan 11, 2016

John Dirks Jr said:
I don't want to get in the habit of changing head gaskets. This time I'm getting ARP stud kit, Felpro 9333 instead of 8548. I also need a better tq wrench. In the past, I've done a dozen head gasket jobs using my non brand name beam style tq wrench and never had a failure until this boosted application, but I think I should upgrade.

What is an adequate tq wrench at a decent price? I'm not partial to clicker or beam type as long as the accuracy is good. Of course, proper technique is always important no matter what the tool.

A good beam style torque is the best choice. See Tapered Beam and Flat Beam Torque Wrenches | M-Series | Sturtevant Richmont OR
Google Sturtevant torque wrench

If you like Craftsman, see Sears.com

JD1964 · Jan 11, 2016

Ya think this is worth a shot?

Vintage Craftsman Torque Wrench 4464 New Original Box 1 2"Drive 0 150 Foot Lbs | eBay

a91what · Jan 11, 2016

Are you sure there is no other problems at play here???
I use stock head gaskets, and arp bolts. 8psi no problems...... But I did have everything surfaced first, may want to have the heads checked...

JD1964 · Jan 11, 2016

a91what said:
Are you sure there is no other problems at play here???
I use stock head gaskets, and arp bolts. 8psi no problems...... But I did have everything surfaced first, may want to have the heads checked...

heads were milled before they were put on

JD1964 · Jan 11, 2016

a91what said:
Are you sure there is no other problems at play here???
I use stock head gaskets, and arp bolts. 8psi no problems...... But I did have everything surfaced first, may want to have the heads checked...

BTW, mine was hitting 10psi in cool air.

a91what · Jan 11, 2016

Lol, I wish I could hit 10psi. At 1800 rpm I see 8 psi and it slowly tapers down to 5.5 at redline. The little m90 could be spun harder but I can't fit any larger a pulley on the crank. (6 5/8) I would have to redesign the whole setup and then my mark viii fan won't fit. Oh-well.

JD1964 · Jan 11, 2016

I bought the vintage Craftsman beam tq wrench. That thing had to be made in the usa! early 60's.

elarm1 · Jan 12, 2016

I just slapped my 9333 pt1s on and had the heads milled. One was.004 out and the other was .006 out. Make sure you use ARP studs and have fun!!!

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