Head Gaskets

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

15 Year Member

Jun 28, 2013

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Jan 15, 2016

#21

• Jan 15, 2016

• #21

Finally got the heads off. This is a first for me at pulling heads in suspect of failed gasket due to boost. I'm not an expert here but I think what I see is pretty conclusive. Have a look and tell me what you think. Only Cyl # 1 was holding on good. # 4 hanging by a thread but all others were pretty much goners.

Here's # 1 holding. The rest look bad to me. Please confirm.

 

Last edited: Jan 15, 2016

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

15 Year Member

Jun 28, 2013

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Jan 15, 2016

#22

• Jan 15, 2016

• #22

These heads were milled .012. The intake was not milled. Is it possible the intake was not allowing the heads to be free in expansion and contraction, thus lifting on the top side?

 

a91what

SendMeUrDataLog

10 Year Member

Apr 6, 2011

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Jan 16, 2016

#23

• Jan 16, 2016

• #23

I wouldn't think so. Once you have the block clean take a known good straight edge and check it for flatness.
Just my .02 I torque my heads with arp bolts in 3 steps 45#, 65#, 85#... might seem excessive but I have never experienced a failure.

 

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

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Jan 17, 2016

#24

• Jan 17, 2016

• #24

The gaskets which just had this failure are the 9333PT1's. Looking at the surfaces sure looks like head lift contributed since the top sides of most compression rings are blown through in a similar pattern on each of the cylinders. Can head lift really happen at 10psi? I need to understand what happened so I don't keep going through this again. I must have really screwed up the torquing of these heads or something.

After verifying surfaces are flat, I might go with Cometics and ARP studs. I'll copper coat the Cometics to help get a good seal. I'm considering ordering thicker Cometics to offset the fact my heads had previously been milled .012. Hoping this might drop the compression back closer to stock and also help with intake match.

Any thoughts on this idea?

 

a91what

SendMeUrDataLog

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Jan 17, 2016

#25

• Jan 17, 2016

• #25

What did the plugs read? AFR? what cr are you running? all these things go into it, what was your timing set too? at 10psi you need to pull at least 5* of timing, a9l with 10* base has 30* timing from 4500rpm up that's WAY to much at 10# of boost.

I don't like the cometic gaskets they never worked out on our nitrous cars.

 

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

15 Year Member

Jun 28, 2013

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Jan 17, 2016

#26

• Jan 17, 2016

• #26

I have a picture of the plugs but not handy so I'll put it up later. Looked normal. AFR 11.5ish give or take a tad. CR is actually pretty close to stock 9:1 since the gt40 (non P) heads had slightly larger cc volume than the stock e7. Although the gt40's were milled so that probably brings me back close to stock CR 9:1. 10 initial timing and chip tuned for the setup by 84Ttop & gang.

By the questions you're asking, is detonation what you're thinking? Not likely all things considered. Most likely is poor job of tq on the stock bolts.

I'm just torn between trying the 9333 again or trying Cometic. Either way I'll use arp studs. I'm sure my tq specs will be correct this time. I'm not sure they were correct last time.

 

smkshw

5 Year Member

Feb 12, 2010

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Jan 20, 2016

#27

• Jan 20, 2016

• #27

I just went through the same thing if you can remember,I feel you pain...lol.....I ended up using the 9333s,wrather it not blow!,but I like the fusible link idea

 

A5literMan

At least it is lumpy...

5 Year Member

Jul 30, 2011

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Illinois

Jan 20, 2016

#28

• Jan 20, 2016

• #28

Use arp studs and the 9333's IMO. The studs will keep clamping force even and you'll still have a "fusible link" with those gaskets. Also cometics require the block surface to be machined properly for proper sealing(I was told this by an engine builder and he talked me into not using my cometics)

 

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

15 Year Member

Jun 28, 2013

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Jan 26, 2016

#29

• Jan 26, 2016

• #29

I'll give the 9333's a second chance. This time I'll add ARP studs and borrow my brothers Snap On tq wrench. I had a cheap one last time. I probably didnt get em torqued right. The cold weather made me temporarily loose interest. I'll be back, I promise.

 

Reactions: A5literMan

89oem

Mustang Master

Dec 18, 2013

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Jan 27, 2016

#30

• Jan 27, 2016

• #30

Here ya go,

 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!

Founding Member

Jan 14, 2001

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129

New York

Jan 29, 2016

#31

• Jan 29, 2016

• #31

Fel pro 9333pt-1 with arp head bolts 154-3601 and use arp thread sealant torque to 70ft/lb.

 

elarm1

10 Year Member

Dec 17, 2010

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N.Va

Feb 3, 2016

#32

• Feb 3, 2016

• #32

Done yet? If I can manage to finish in 2 months with a wife, newborn twins, a 5 and a 12 year old then various house hold chit, you should be. Get off your arse and get it done. Its already Feb and will be warm soon... @John Dirks Jr

 

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

15 Year Member

Jun 28, 2013

3,427

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Maryland

Feb 3, 2016

#33

• Feb 3, 2016

• #33

Heads are still on the bench. I didn't even scrape the gaskets off yet. I did cover the block to keep the dust out.

I know, I know...shameful...

I'll get it back soon

 

8

89llx

5 Year Member

Aug 31, 2009

302

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Mar 12, 2016

#34

• Mar 12, 2016

• #34

Can someone tell me how it got started that Ford 302,s have TTY head bolts?

 

madspeed

Colonel Mustard

Founding Member

Nov 29, 1999

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a van down by the river

Mar 12, 2016

#35

• Mar 12, 2016

• #35

ford decided your money was better spend on them when you blew your head gaskets