Head selection help

I am in the process of building a 351w based 427 stroker motor. Now I have eagle h beam rods, probe forged pistons set up for trick flow heads. This motor will have a D1SC procharger on it as well so it will be seeing boost. Should I stick with the trick flow heads that I have or should I sell them and get a different set. I have a set of trick flow twisted wedge track heat heads. Would like to use trick flow heads since the pistons are dished for them and I don't really want to swap out pistons here is the info on the heads.

Cylinder Head Style Assembled
Cylinder Head Material Aluminum
Cylinder Head Finish Natural
Combustion Chamber Volume (cc) 61
CNC-Machined Combustion Chamber No
Combustion Chamber Style Heart
Intake Runner Volume (cc) 170cc
Exhaust Runner Volume (cc) 66cc
CNC-Machined Intake Runner No
CNC-Machined Exhaust Runner No
Intake Port Location Standard
Exhaust Port Shape Square
Exhaust Port Location Standard
Intake Valves Included Yes
Intake Valve Diameter (in) 2.020 in.
Exhaust Valves Included Yes
Exhaust Valve Diameter (in) 1.600 in.
Intake Valve Angle 15
Exhaust Valve Angle 17
Valve Springs Included Yes
Outside Diameter of Outer Spring (in) 1.460 in.
Damper Spring Included Yes
Number of Springs Per Valve Dual
Retainers Included Yes
Retainer Material Chromemoly steel
Locks Included Yes
Lock Style 7 degree
Valve Stem Seals Included Yes
Valve Stem Seal Style Positive stop
Valve Stem Seal Material Viton® fluoroelastomer
Rocker Arms Included Yes
Rocker Arm Style Full roller
Rocker Arm Studs Included Yes
Rocker Arm Nuts Included Yes
Rocker Arm Nut Thread Size 3/8-24 in.
Guideplates Included Yes
Guideplate Pushrod Size 5/16 in.

Let me know if you guys think these heads will work fine or what heads you think I should run.
 
those heads would be awesome on a 302, so would that D1.

Go with AT LEAST a 225cc cnc ported trick flow Hi-port. and start looking at F-series prochargers.
 
I do like the idea of getting them ported and polished but the problem with that is for not much more I can ge a new set of heads. I would like to be pushing 650-700hp to the wheels. I already have the D1SC procharger so that is what I am going to be sticking with for now. I don't think my power goals are that far out of line. Want to run the quarter in the low 10s if not faster.
 
I do like the idea of getting them ported and polished but the problem with that is for not much more I can ge a new set of heads

You did look at the flow numbers on the ported heads, right?

Fox Lake TFS heads Stage 3&4
Stage 3 Specifications :
Port Volume 195 CC

Combustion Chamber Volume = 65cc
Valve Sizes = 2.020 Int, 1.600 Exh
Max Flow Int. - 310cfm @ .600"
Max Flow Exh. = 220cfm @ .600"

Stage 4 Specifications :
Port Volume 207CC

Combustion Chamber Volume = 65cc
Valve Sizes = 2.055 Int, 1.600 Exh
Max Flow Int. - 320cfm @ .600"
Max Flow Exh. = 230cfm @ .600"

AFR 205's
Max flow Int. - 308 @ .600
Max flow Exh. - 231@ .600
AFR 225's
Max flow Int. - 309 @ .600
Max flow Exh. - 248 @ .600

Trick Flow CNC 205's
Twisted Wedge 205 and Twisted Wedge Track Heat 205 Cylinder Heads
for Small Block Ford
Lift Value Intake Flow CFM Exhaust Flow CFM
.100" 71 56
.200" 144 112
.300" 220 150
.400" 270 192
.500" 299 220
.600" 316 231
Tests conducted at 28" of water (pressure). Bore size: 4.030"
CNC-profiled combustion chambers; exhaust with 2" pipe.

I do know there is more to life than flow numbers, and this is another reason I'd have fox lake do them. Just my opinion.:flag:
Also, I'd check out what TEA can do for you.
Total Engine Airflow
 
I have been thinking about doing it both ways. I would like to get them ported and polished but that does run alot of money. If I do the heads then I have to do the intake too to maximize the power for the intake. Haven't decided if I just want to shell out the money to do it or if I just want to buy new heads and sell the sets I have now.
 
I have been thinking about doing it both ways. I would like to get them ported and polished but that does run alot of money. If I do the heads then I have to do the intake too to maximize the power for the intake. Haven't decided if I just want to shell out the money to do it or if I just want to buy new heads and sell the sets I have now.

As far as I can tell, it's cheaper to port the heads than replace them. Odds are, you would get more power porting than replacing them too.

Do you already have an intake for a 302? If so, regardless, you will have to buy a new lower. And for the same reason you would port the heads, you should port the intake even if you replace the heads.

What intake do you plan on using? Something like this, you prob could get away with just port matching the lower.
Trick Flow® Box-R-Series Intake Manifolds for Ford 351 Windsor - trickflow.com
 
highports ,brodix neals, or SC1's

also im with everyone else that D series is a lil small... but i can see the i have it im gunna use it idea.


also search NOVI357 on google... hes running a 427 with an F3 in a coupe with a 4r70 with 17x10 FR500s and MT radials running mid 8
 
Either way is a good option with the heads.

You could sell your heads for a good 800 bucks and use that towards the purchase of the new heads or put money into your heads.

A well build 427 stroker should go deeeeeep into the 10's N/A without trying. I think that you should really rethink what your goals are with the car, when i hear 427 and boost in the same sentance if your not going low 9's there is a problem, there is a guy on corral running 8's with a 427, F2, and a 17'' tire.

You could sell the blower, run the motor N/A and use the money from the D1 to fund stroker motor parts, and it will easily exceed your goals
 
The only problem with the high ports is then I have to get a custom set of headers made to fit. Anyone know how much those cost. Will my springs and retainers just switch over from my twisted wedge heads to the high port heads or will I need a new set.
 
Either way is a good option with the heads.

You could sell your heads for a good 800 bucks and use that towards the purchase of the new heads or put money into your heads.

A well build 427 stroker should go deeeeeep into the 10's N/A without trying. I think that you should really rethink what your goals are with the car, when i hear 427 and boost in the same sentance if your not going low 9's there is a problem, there is a guy on corral running 8's with a 427, F2, and a 17'' tire.

You could sell the blower, run the motor N/A and use the money from the D1 to fund stroker motor parts, and it will easily exceed your goals

novi357.... thats a BAD ASS car...

your right about the F2.. thought he went F3 when he went to the air to water setup...

first time i saw him driving the car on the street we were waiting outside MIR to meet up with the other car pitting with us and he came by and MY GOD its unreal how bad ass it sounds coming down the road. guy who owns the race car didnt believe it it runs mid 8's how he drives it on the street
 
Ok Heres the deal. I already have the parts for the short block. I have the crank, rods, and pistions, Now i want to keep the blower. So I am going to use the D1sc for now. I talked to procharger. They said I will only be pushing around 12lbs of boost with the D1SC on that motor with the renegade setup. I am fine with that. I am wanting to figure out what to do with the top end.
So far I have two sets of trick flow twisted wedge heads as mentioned above. I have two motors that I am selling the parts I don't need and trying to pay for the new ones for the car. I don't really want to go with the high ports because of the cost of custom headers. Now since I am going with a different bracket setup maybe I could sell my bracket and procharger to get close to a F1 and just buy my new brackets for the f1. Don't know what you guys think. I would like to stay with trick flow heads but I don't want to spend 2800 on a nice set of r series. I might just sell the extra set I have to help fund porting and polishing mine as mentioned above.
 
The reason I want to stay with the D1sc right now is I am not looking for rediculous power. I know that it won't have a problem making lots of power anyways but I have a stock block with a girdle and an iron crank. It should hold up fine. But I don't really want to push it with an f1. Plus I just got off the phone with procharge and they said my D1sc head unit would cost 3000 new and an f1 would cost 3500 new. Now Im no genius but when I can buy the whole kit off of ebay for 1500 for a mustang I would not spend 2500 just on a head unit. So I will never be able to sell my parts and get the money for an f1. Just sticking with the bottom end I have and the D1sc I am just looking for some help on the top end parts.