Header bolt tricks for leaky flange? Cant get in there

crazypete

All my crevices are greased.
Oct 22, 2004
930
4
18
Arlington, MA
Hey guys,

I'm trying to clamp down my longtubes to kill a leaky #4 cylinder exhaust flange and I just cant get a wrench in there. I thought of maybe using studs but then I wouldnt be able to slide the heads off and I couldnt get a screwdriver in there to drive the studs in in the first place. Washers dont work since there is zero clearance in there to begin with. I cant get a socket over the bolt heads. I can get half a boxwrench over it for little 1/8 turns but it's real close to stripping the bolts and I cant apply pressure.

What did you guys do when encountering PITA header bolts?
 
I'm less worried about stripping than the fact that I cant really put pressure on the bolt: the wrench slides off so I cant get a good seal. This is the third set of gaskets I have tried.
 
You mean those boxwrenches with a little inner part that can spin?

I actually dont.....but it wouldnt make a difference since there is a 1 mm itty bitty gap between the bolt head and the tube wall of the exhuast. I really cant even slide a loose socket over it. The boxwrench hits the same sidewall after an 1/8th of a turn. Such a PITA. On the other bolt head, I cant even slide the boxwrench over the bolt.
 
I used a set of grade 8 socket head bolts on my shorties, allowing me to use a ball-end hex wrench on the bolts. The was no interference with the tubes, and the ball-end allowed me to attack the bolts from the odd angles involved. I think I paid about $10 for the bolts and another $10 for a good ball-end allen wrench set. I used locktite red on the bolts, and they haven't given me a problem in 7 years. The only issue might be that you probably can't apply as much torque to a bolt with a ball end allen wrench that you might on a regular bolt with a socket or an open end wrench, but if you need that much tightening you've likely got other problems anyway.
 
Thats a good idea!

What you do for torque is get a hex driver for a screwdriver and a 6 or 7 mm socket and then you can ratchet it. I did this on my coolant elbow once.

I'm gonna go try this...
 
get a crows foot. it will do wonders for you.

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SamSnyder said:
I used a set of grade 8 socket head bolts on my shorties, allowing me to use a ball-end hex wrench on the bolts. The was no interference with the tubes, and the ball-end allowed me to attack the bolts from the odd angles involved. I think I paid about $10 for the bolts and another $10 for a good ball-end allen wrench set. I used locktite red on the bolts, and they haven't given me a problem in 7 years. The only issue might be that you probably can't apply as much torque to a bolt with a ball end allen wrench that you might on a regular bolt with a socket or an open end wrench, but if you need that much tightening you've likely got other problems anyway.
I do the same thing. The bolts I used are stainless steel & I have them drilled for safety wire. I am currently too lazy to safety wire them, but I have in the past. Looks great when its done right, and they never come loose.