Header brand question

Well that Shelby engine don't have headers since its a '67 apparently so I need to get some. Not lookin for any fancy ceramic coated headers. I'm a cheapskate and I'm looking for somethin that will seal up good and that is cheap...no need for squeezing every last drop of power out or anything.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=HED-88300&N=120 300691

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=BIG-12102&N=120 302953

Do any of you guys have experience w/ any of these? The only other decent cheap one I know of is the Hookers comps...but they're like 150. I dunno if I wanna spend that much or not...I'm about broke and need to clean that 289 up good and freshen it up, leaving me veeery little money.
 
I have used several brands of LT headers...
Generally they are all the same.
Hookers have slightly better quality IMO, but the others are good too.
I have used Flowtech, Hooker Comp, Hooker Supercomp, Hedman, and Tubular. The Supercomps have bigger tubes and are thinner steel for weight savings. The Comps are just like most others.
As for the Z-bar, you need to make sure the driver's side header has 2 tubes together and going almost horizontally back, while the other 2 tubes go down more vertically. This leaves a big hole between the pairs for the bar to go through. I give you this discription in case you look at used headers. If you buy new, just check the footnotes for the part number to make sure they are compatible with a floor shift manual tranny.
Last time I checked, Hedman had discontinued it's manual tranny header from their regular version.
Good luck
Dave
 
Go with the old Shelby type Tri-Y's. $130 most classic Stang suppliers. I love mine. Bought em cheap on ebay--- used nickle chromed, Brand unknown, but they fit my 89 Ranger like they were made for it instead of the Stangs. perform flawlessly even on a 400 hp Canfield headed roller 5.0 and a 4 speed. Pulled like a race horse up to 7500 rpms. Zero leaks too , even with used header gaskets.
 
my preference is hooker no problems with them(so far), i bought a set of flow techs and put a straight edge across them and the ports were so uneven i almost returned them, later i found out the collecter welds leaked(maybee the assembler had a bad day). and headman headers seem tinny to me and seem to rust worse than others. but thats just my opinion.
 
my experience

not that you asked about this particular set up but it may be relevant to somebody else. Hedman long tubes do not not fit a 351W/C6 combo. Hooker Comps do.

So if anyone in the PA/OH area is interested in some coated Hedman LTs that were bolted up but never run, I have a good idea where to find some.
 
1979 hedmans-no seal, 1989 blackjack-no seal, 1992 hookers sealed up good. they have raised bosses on the flanges. just put a set on my sons 69 with 302 sealed great. install them, tighten them down. next morning tighten again. drive it a few days finish tighten process ,done deal no leaks.
 
I went with the flowtechs from Summit. 1 5/8/3" tubes. I'll have my exhaust on hopefully next wednesday...should be pretty nice...2.5" pipe, magnaflow 14" magnapacks, 2.5 tails w/ 3" tips through the rear valance. Those that got these just how easy where they? Did you have to jack the engine up or will it be a work them in w/o problems type deal since I have auto and no power options. :shrug:
 
TireSmoknWindsr said:
I went with the flowtechs from Summit. 1 5/8/3" tubes. I'll have my exhaust on hopefully next wednesday...should be pretty nice...2.5" pipe, magnaflow 14" magnapacks, 2.5 tails w/ 3" tips through the rear valance. Those that got these just how easy where they? Did you have to jack the engine up or will it be a work them in w/o problems type deal since I have auto and no power options. :shrug:

When I put my flowtechs in, I put the passenger side in from the top, and the driver's side from the bottoms (had to jack the car up.) Took a bit to get the bolts all lined up, but the seal was good.
 
I have a 4spd. All I did was jack the car up and remove the clutch linkage. Put both sides in from the underside of the car. Like noted from skywalker, the hardest part is getting the bolts to line up. You don't want to snug any of them done right away it is easiest to get them all threaded in a couple turns first so you can move the header around if you need to. Just another thought this would be a great time to check your motor mounts for any cracks. If they look bad now is the time to replace them. I did, $30 buck or something at Napa. Hope this all helps, and good luck!
 
burg65 said:
I have a 4spd. All I did was jack the car up and remove the clutch linkage. Put both sides in from the underside of the car. Like noted from skywalker, the hardest part is getting the bolts to line up. You don't want to snug any of them done right away it is easiest to get them all threaded in a couple turns first so you can move the header around if you need to. Just another thought this would be a great time to check your motor mounts for any cracks. If they look bad now is the time to replace them. I did, $30 buck or something at Napa. Hope this all helps, and good luck!


Alright thanks guys for the advice. I have brand new mounts already. I would wait and put them in when I drop the HiPo in buuut...I really really need some new exhaust so I'll stick them on as soon as they come in.