Header gaskets and Spark plug recommendations

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GunmeatalGT

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• Feb 8, 2007

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Hey Guys

So in the next week or so I am going to be Installing the BBK LT’s and I was wondering the following

1- what is the recommended header gaskets to put on this application?

2- I also read that I should use some kind of gasket sealer when I put the LT’s what is recommended here ?

3- Finally over the summer I am going to put an Accufab TB and Plenum and JLT CAI and I understand once they are installed with a new tune the car tends to knock. I read that colder spark plugs seem to fix this. Should I do that at the same time while Im down there or waite? How many steps colder should I go?


TANKS BOYS

 

steveb24

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#2

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1. I just got percey seal for good gaskets off ebay for $41, in light of my upcoming lt install. Only heard great things about them.

2. I would like to know? also, does anybody use Loctite on the header studs/nuts? I realllly dont want these nuts coming loose ever. And im sure gunmetal dont either.

3. never heard of that happening.

 

LaserRed01GT

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#3

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• #3

Percy's, Remflex, Cometic, Stock stacked stainless in that order from best to OK.

You don't need gasket sealer anywhere near the headers. But, I would use a locking set like the Stage 8's, or the Ford Racing locking header bolts, or you could use ARP studs. The Stage 8's work great.

A colder plug in only needed if you are using a power adder. I am running a Steeda CAI, Accufab 70mm TB, and C&L plenum and I don't get any spark knock whatsoever. It's all in the tune.

 

G

GunmeatalGT

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Laser

I have an Xcal 2 Tuner so I am going to get the tune form them. which one do you use?

Like steveb24 , should we use Loctite

 

T

TGJ

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#5

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• #5

Stage 8 Header Locking bolts. No need to add loctite to them and guaranteed to not back out.

 

LaserRed01GT

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#6

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GunmeatalGT said:

Laser

I have an Xcal 2 Tuner so I am going to get the tune form them. which one do you use?

Like steveb24 , should we use Loctite

Click to expand...

My 2001 is tuned with Advantage 3.0.

No need for Loctite on exhaust/header bolts as long as they are installed with good hardware and installed correctly.

 

steveb24

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would it help tho? and what are the torque specs when using the supplied header nuts with the lt's?

 

LaserRed01GT

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steveb24 said:

would it help tho? and what are the torque specs when using the supplied header nuts with the lt's?

Click to expand...

Well I don't think it will hurt, but it really shouldn't necessary if you use the right hardware. If you want to use Loctite threadlocker, use the red stick type.

 

steveb24

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alright.. yea ill do that. I really dont want to take the studs out and use bolts since i hear its not really needed.. but no way i wana be tightening these thigns ever

 

jivepepper

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#10

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I reused my old ones.

 

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GunmeatalGT

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LaserRed01GT said:

installed correctly.

Click to expand...

Now what does Installed correctly exactly mean?, I have some good instructions on how this process is going to go


http://www.fnsweet.com/garage/lt_install/index.shtml


They don't say what Spec Torque specs to etc.

If I use the Stage 8 Header Locking bolts, will in be needed to Heat cycle
Run it the re tighten?

 

LaserRed01GT

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#12

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GunmeatalGT said:

Now what does Installed correctly exactly mean?, I have some good instructions on how this process is going to go


http://www.fnsweet.com/garage/lt_install/index.shtml


They don't say what Spec Torque specs to etc.

If I use the Stage 8 Header Locking bolts, will in be needed to Heat cycle
Run it the re tighten?

Click to expand...

The manuals say 15 lb-ft for the exhaust manifold bolts, but I always get them a little tighter than that. 20 lb-ft should be plenty, but don't go any higher or you will risk damaging the threads in the head.

As long as you use a crush type gasket and use the Stage 8's, you shouldn't have to touch the header bolts after you install them.

EDIT: Just one more thing. Make sure you get the retainer on the correct side(left) side of the primary. Make sure the snap ring holds well too.

 

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GunmeatalGT

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#13

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Cool Thanks

 

steveb24

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retainer? snap ring? primamry? any other ways of explaining these things and where the heck they are?

i got another question too.. might as well get them all out. the f'nsweet guide calls to shave down a stud on the drivers side, and use a bolt also. Is that really necessary? what did u guys do?

 

Gearbanger 101

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#15

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....and tighten them from the center, outwards to ensure your gasket stays flat and true. All too many times I've seen them tightened from one side to the other that causes them to shift and bind up after a couple of heat cycles.

 

LaserRed01GT

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#16

• Feb 10, 2007

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steveb24 said:

retainer? snap ring? primamry? any other ways of explaining these things and where the heck they are?

i got another question too.. might as well get them all out. the f'nsweet guide calls to shave down a stud on the drivers side, and use a bolt also. Is that really necessary? what did u guys do?

Click to expand...

A picture is worth a 1000 words: My BBK's don't even come close the motor mount studs.

View attachment 404460

 

steveb24

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ahoy!.. thanks for clearin that up.

i got one final question.. probably not but i hope so..

When i get the headers on, new prochamber, and the mounts bolted back up.. what else (if following the fnsweet guide) would i need to do to safely start the car and let it run to op temp, check the tightness of the nuts, and than do it again? Is that even possible to do with the car on jackstands?