im gettin ready to install full exhauast on my buddys 02 mustang gt automatic...he got the slp performance pac...i would imagine that all the exhuast before the headers should be easy,but looking at the headers it may be a challenge, so im wondering if you guys some give me some tips,tricks and pointers...thanks in advance!
header install,any tips
- Thread starter mhorn0817
- Start date
blackfang
Founding Member
Drop the K member - saves time and your sanity/profanity.
Great instructions: http://www.fnsweet.com/garage/lt_install/index.shtml
Great instructions: http://www.fnsweet.com/garage/lt_install/index.shtml
shallowreef
New Member
Drop the K member.
They are a bit of a pain in the ass to install, I'm not going to lie to you about that. The result though is amazing and the sound is great. PM me if you run into any problems or have any questions. I just installed mine a little under a month ago.
They are a bit of a pain in the ass to install, I'm not going to lie to you about that. The result though is amazing and the sound is great. PM me if you run into any problems or have any questions. I just installed mine a little under a month ago.
03ghoststang
Well-Known Member
BooWFO
New Member
Here's few pointers. if your not gonna drop the kmember.
unbolt the motor mounts.
unbolt and drop starter outta the way. The best way I've found is through the front of kmember you'll need extensions and I suggest a swivel.
then place a jack under the tranny and jack the motor up
Also found a GOOD 1/4 stubby rachet is the best to get into the tight spots. you'll need extensions and a swivel here also the ones on the rear of the passenger side can access through the fender area. then just reverse order to install new stuff.
on drivers sideunbolt an move the steering linkage out of the way. Also soak the egr tube with some penetrating oil for a good while so it will come out.
other than that driver side is cake compared to passenger side.
oh yeah I strongly suggest before puttiing midpipe back on. go back over port by port and retighten all bolts. Start car let it get to operating temp shut it down and double check bolts after engine cools. You may have to do this part a few times.
unbolt the motor mounts.
unbolt and drop starter outta the way. The best way I've found is through the front of kmember you'll need extensions and I suggest a swivel.
then place a jack under the tranny and jack the motor up
Also found a GOOD 1/4 stubby rachet is the best to get into the tight spots. you'll need extensions and a swivel here also the ones on the rear of the passenger side can access through the fender area. then just reverse order to install new stuff.
on drivers sideunbolt an move the steering linkage out of the way. Also soak the egr tube with some penetrating oil for a good while so it will come out.
other than that driver side is cake compared to passenger side.
oh yeah I strongly suggest before puttiing midpipe back on. go back over port by port and retighten all bolts. Start car let it get to operating temp shut it down and double check bolts after engine cools. You may have to do this part a few times.
blackfang
Founding Member
Nice write up, but there are alot of unnecessary steps.BCB00GT said:
1. You do not need to remove the steering rack
2. You don't need anything to hold the engine up. The transmission and mounts will hold the motor and actually allow it to lower slightly to where you have MORE ROOM to install the headers.
3. No need to remove the dipstick.
4. No need to remove the tie rods at all.
mity2
I like Pro3 and all I got was this crappy CT.
blackfang said:
How is this????
1-Rack is attached to K-menber. It NEEDS to come off to get K member off.
2-Engine need to be supported, as you'll have to raise and lower engine to slip header in the place(space between passenger head and frame rail is REALLY REALLY tight. I had to drop engine down few inches to slip header through there. Infact, after all is done, I think I have about 1/8" or so room around headers to framerail), and get to all the bolts. U can let the engine hang. But thats ALOT of weight hanging on trans mount and Aluminum transmission housing
3-Dip stik will have to come off, as dipstick will snake though and around headers after headers are installed.
4-And Tie rod is part of Rack. and as for rack it needs to come off.
I guess technically, you can remove K-Menber, rack and A-arm and spindle as one big ass unit. But its just that BIGASS(read HEAVY), and is impractical. And rack will still be attached to line. there for your not going to be able to gain enough room which you so despratelly need while doing header install
None of these steps(which I followed when I installed my LT), and found that the write up to be almost dead on accurate)are necessary steps, as i guess you can istall header without dropping K-menber(I'm not sure how, as even with K-menber off, some bolts were almost impossible to get to). But by the time you save by not dropping K-member off will be comsumed by trying to get to all the bolts, And if you save some time by not removing rack, A-arm, and spindle will be offset by the fact with all that stuff still on K-member, it'll be one heavy son of bieeach that you'll have to lift it up and hold it there while you bolt it up.
unnecessary steps? May be. Is it better to do it the way write up show you? most certainly...
mustang02gt said:
Here's another good write up for installing headers by dropping the K-member.
http://stangfreak.com/content/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=52&Itemid=31
blackfang
Founding Member
You lower the k member with the rack. That is why you disconnect the steering shaft. We lowered the K member and placed it on jack stand and then raised the car back up about 6-10" higher.mity2 said:
Not really alot of weight but it held for 6 hours with no issues.Then again the guy does build turbo terminators, lightnings and GT's and has 10 years of experience in engines, turbo, and blown Mustangs car set up's and tuning with zero issues. Worked for us and when you don't support the engine and raise the car, the engine lowered a tad which gave us more room to install the headers.
I know i am not blind nor stupid, but we never removed it. Here is another person who didn't either.
http://forums.************.com/showpost.php?p=507369&postcount=20
**Edit i guess Modular depot is censored on this site??
that is because you took the rack off, when you didn't have to
Not when you have a lift
We Just raised the car off the K member rack and arms.Some on Modular Depot did it without dropping the K member. The K member can be as heavy as it wants, i used a lift.None of these steps(which I followed when I installed my LT), and found that the write up to be almost dead on accurate)are necessary steps, as i guess you can istall header without dropping K-menber(I'm not sure how, as even with K-menber off, some bolts were almost impossible to get to). But by the time you save by not dropping K-member off will be comsumed by trying to get to all the bolts, And if you save some time by not removing rack, A-arm, and spindle will be offset by the fact with all that stuff still on K-member, it'll be one heavy son of bieeach that you'll have to lift it up and hold it there while you bolt it up.
unnecessary steps? May be. Is it better to do it the way write up show you? most certainly...
mity2
I like Pro3 and all I got was this crappy CT.
Well if I had the lift, thats one thing. But most of us don't have life. All we have is good'ol jack and jackstand. So if your lucky enough to have floor lift by all means I guess
