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Header Install Woes

  • Thread starter Thread starter DRock9
  • Start date Start date Dec 11, 2006
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jrichker

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Dec 11, 2006
#21
  • Dec 11, 2006
  • #21
The header to H pipe joint does not use a gasket, it is a metal to metal ball and socket joint. If you used any WD40 or other penetratiing oil on the exhaust parts, it will make smoke when you start the car. I hope you used lots of antiseize on the header to H pipe bolts. If you didn't you will find that they corrode and are hard to get off, just like the original bolts were.

A standard part for Mustang repair is a 1 lb brush top can of NAPA antiseize or Bostik Never Seeze with nickel. Use it on anything that has threads and it will torque down tight, not loosen up or seize. Best thing since the torque wrench, which is its companion tool.
 

Mikie

the ahead of you horseman
Aug 2, 2000
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Belmont NC
Dec 11, 2006
#22
  • Dec 11, 2006
  • #22
Chances are the reason for the smoking is because of the new headers. The coatings they have will bake a bit and definately any greasy hand prints will smoke like a freight train for a while.

Scary feeling isnt it?
I remember my first header swap. Smoke pouring out from under the hood and the wheel wells. My blood pressure jumped through the roof and I freaked out badly. A buddy was helping me change them and laughed extremely hard at me.
He had also been through it a time or two.

No biggie, just give it some drive time and it will burn off.
Glad its running right for ya.
 

JChalfan

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Nov 27, 2002
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Dec 11, 2006
#23
  • Dec 11, 2006
  • #23
Like other people already said, it's almost surely just oil/grease on the headers, or the factory coating. If you painted them with header paint, expect them to smoke quite a bit, and stink for a while.

That being said, do take a close look and make sure nothing is touching the exhaust.

Jeff
 
D

DRock9

New Member
Aug 22, 2006
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Dec 11, 2006
#24
  • Dec 11, 2006
  • #24
Thanks for all the help everyone! Everything went by smoothly, it's not smoking anymore but it does smell a little bit in the engine bay but I assume it is nothing and will probably be gone soon. Ill keep tabs on it though just in case.

What I do need to do is take the car to an exhaust shop and have them weld it up so when they do that I will have them put some anti-sieze on the bolts so I dont have to go through any of this junk again.

There is one small issue I noticed though, while installing the driver side header I touched the pipe from the battery terminal to the block and it sparked. I went inside my car and noticed that FM1 doesn't work right, but FM2 works fine...oh well I can live with it but I think I short circuited something.

Again, thanks for all the help i GREATLY appreciate it! And to help people searching for header/h-pipe/catback installs later on ill add some keywords in here aswell as a very helpful link!

header, cat-back, cat back, h-pipe, h pipe install

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/Detailed/2024.shtml

You should be able to modify the directions for shorty headers. Also, a word of wise to anyone attempting to put exhaust parts on yourself, get under the car and inspect the studs/bolts/nuts yourself and see what you will need to replace so that you dont end up ordering an h-pipe and then find you either need new studs installed($100) or new headers ($150) That is all.


Viva la Stangnet!
 
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