Headlight question

[Shakin66]

I am running newer three bar headlights and noticed last night that they would shut off and come back on from time to time. I know that the original wattage was 37.5 low/50watts high beam and the new ones are 55w/60w so I guess its time to intall a relay but was wondering if the power side of the alt. is a safe place to pull power from? I dont see a reason that it wouldnt be but thought I'd as the experts here

 

[TOM B]

Yes that would be ok, A relay in the light system will work.
The headlight switch is also a problem as it has a breaker built in and if you draw to much currant it clicks off and on, it was put there to prevent a wiring fire as early stangs have poor wiring, The breaker might be weak as now you heated it up and might need still need replaced.
Also if you have a stock alternator I would buy a 100 amp one wire from Powermaster for your stang, its a direct fit and also illiminates the external regulator, your lights will be bright even at idle.

O, buy the way, REAL NICE COUPE

 

[rbohm]

while you can pull power from the alternator, since the relay is off when the switch is off, just pull the power from the battery side of the solenoid. i agree with upgrading the alternator though.

you can make things easy on yourself and check out lmctruck.com they have a complete wiring harness including relays that is plug and play. the cost on that is $30 plus shipping.

 

[BarnStang]

rbohm, I would like to check that out. Have ordered from LMC before. Been surfing around the site a bit but can't seem to find away to search without picking a specific catalog. Can you post a link to that relay kit?
For $30 it would save me putting it together from scratch. Done this twice on one proj car and one customer car. I bet I have more than $30 in each one I did.

 

[Shakin66]

I would put it on the Sol. but the post is too full of wires.
I am replacing the switch also.

 

[rbohm]

here you go;

1957-72 F100 - F250 Euro Style Headlights > LMC Truck > Euro Style Headlights For 1957-72 F100 - F250

you have to scroll down, and there are three choices in the ford truck section. you can also look in the chevy truck section under lamps and lenses. go for the older trucks.

 

[2nd Mustang]

I'd be very careful of pulling power directly from the alternator.

I once had an SUV where the power feed from the alternator to the battery also contained the wires to the headlights and heater blower motor. The connection to the battery was loose in the wiring harness so when the engine was running all the alternator charge was going directly into the harness and very little made it to the battery. As soon as I turned on the headlights, they became really bright then blew up the bulbs. This happened twice before I figured what was going on.

The heater blower motor sounded like a AA/FD supercharger when I turned it on.

(Someday I'll learn to type better too.)

 

[Grabber70Mach]

I'd be very careful of pulling power directly from the alternator.

I once had an SUV where the power feed from the alternator to the battery also contained the wires to the headlights and heater blower motor. The connection to the battery was loose in the wiring harness so when the engine was running all the alternator charge was going directly into the harness and very little made it to the battery. As soon as I turned on the headlights, they became really bright then blew up the bulbs. This happened twice before I figured what was going on.

The heater blower motor sounded like a AA/FD supercharger when I turned it on.

(Someday I'll learn to type better too.)

Sounds more to me like your alternator lost its regulation function.

 

[Tim65GT]

Shakin66:
I would put it on the Sol. but the post is too full of wires.

Here is an option. I got one in good shape from a Bronco in a salvage yard.

 

[2nd Mustang]

Sounds more to me like your alternator lost its regulation function.

Actually, no. The wiring harness had a factory plastic clip connector just before the battery and it was worn and corroded. The local dealership wanted to replace the whole harness in the engine bay so I took it to a local automotive electrical shop and they replaced the clip section with new wiring and a bolt together clip for $20.

 

[Shakin66]

I like that Bronco piece, it would fix my problem! I may also try some of these lower wattage bulbs.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...Track=true&ssPageName=VIP:Watchlink:middle:us

 

[Grabber70Mach]

Actually, no. The wiring harness had a factory plastic clip connector just before the battery and it was worn and corroded. The local dealership wanted to replace the whole harness in the engine bay so I took it to a local automotive electrical shop and they replaced the clip section with new wiring and a bolt together clip for $20.

It was just a random thought, corroded or loose fittings can cause some weird electrical problems. Glad you found a cost effective fix.

 

[HookandLadder]

You can also upgrade to a 69 headlight switch. 20-22 amp vs the 14 in the 65. You have to modify the spacer, but a little JB weld and a file takes care of it.