Headliner

Pooley · Nov 30, 2008

OK I took my car completely apart well the interior I figure I'll start with the headliner and work my way down.

Problem 1 : the front came down easy! the sides came down easy!, but the rear is under a piece of rubber (that I can't remove, I think its what the window sits on) I tore it to get the whole thing out but some of the headliner fabric is still under there and when I fold the rubber away to gain access and let it go it turns brown I'll try to clean it next.

?2? will I be able to just tuck the new headliner in at the back I'm scared that when the wind its it it'll come out?

Next ?3? there is a pad up there its a lt brown almost yellow looks like fiberglass matt like in your walls but only about 1/2" thick.

Will this do or do I need more?

I was heavy into car audio (an Installer) and I have about 4 tubes of Punch matt its close to the same as Dynomatt I was thinking of putting that in the car I don't have enough to do the whole car but maybe the right size pieces in the right places will do as well as getting more of the thick stuff they sent to go under my trunk mat.

?4?I'm going to order the parts from Tony D. Branda please correct me if I should go somewhere else he has the headliner for 34.95 I will also be getting the glue and be asking about a roll of the padding and a set of the rods for the sunvisor (mine look too old)

?5?the pinch molding on my car is in tact but was coming down a bit where the window curves I guess if I roll it back it will stay but its real sticky what should I try to clean it with. before painting?

?6? what interior paint are you guys using I got some flat black from Pep boys and it sprays terrible splatters every ware and is watery

Please comment! bnickel I know you have something!

zookeeper · Nov 30, 2008

You should have done a bit of research BEFORE you took the old headliner out. Headliner in a fastback is easy enough, provided the front and back windows are removed. Trying to do it with the windows in is kind of a pain for the non-pro. The window rubber is what holds the headliner in, as well as seals the glass. While a pro can successfuly tuck it in, using special tools and patience, I wouldn't try it. The best thing you can do is have either remove the windows yourself, or pay a pro to do it. It's not that hard, but you need a bit of finesse and patience to keep from breaking either window or having them leak. I did mine myself, with some help from my wife and it's not that hard, but it is time-comsuming and tedious. Here's a link on window install that applies to fromts and backs.

Windshield Installation FREE Instructions

Once you get the windows out, follow the instructions that came with your headliner kit (you DID buy it as a kit didn't you?) Good headliner kits typically come with front and rear window seals, pinch lace, new clips for the trim, contact cement and instructions. You provide a few hour labor and cuss words...

Pooley · Nov 30, 2008

Kits

I have many books here and I looked in all of them and they sell the parts but not all together where can that be found? I do see the instructions sheet sold too.

zookeeper · Nov 30, 2008

Ask and ye shall receive. Here's where I bought mine and it's a great kit for the money.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Pooley · Nov 30, 2008

I'm ordering it

didn't plan on taking the rear window out but the headliner had to go I didn't need sunvisors but I'll probably change them just because now that I will have a set I do still need to get the metal part though mine is a bit rusted.

You didn't say anything about the padding or my other questions any thoughts?

zookeeper · Dec 2, 2008

I left the insulation in place in mine, some guys use Dynamat or something similar or nothing at all. As for the paint, I like Dupli-Color and have used their semi-gloss black for some interior stuff. It works great, and even better if you warm the can a bit before you use it.

BarnStang · Dec 2, 2008

If your insulation mat is intact, leave it like zookeeper. Any of the major vendors sell the replacement mat. We use the 3M headliner spray adhesive to attach the headliner. careful how much you spray cause it will soak through the fabric if you use too much.
The front and rear glass should come out to make this easy. You probably need new glass seals anyway. The headliner is usually the first thing we install cause everything else follow it-glass, dashpad, int panels, etc. Like you said, top to bottom.
Unless you are on a really critical budjet, it's not worth trying to save the glass seals. Take a razor knife and slice the seal around the peremeter, lift the glass out, yank the seal, clean the channel-CLEAN. Scuff the edge where the headliner glues in place at the top front and back so the glue sticks better. Oh, buy new windlace. It will grip better and hold the headliner on the sides tighter.

Pooley · Dec 2, 2008

New Seal

Yes I will remove the rear glass but in the front my headliner was not under the glass there is a trim piece with screws in the front of the 69.

BarnStang · Dec 4, 2008

We also use the old windlace to hold the headliner edges in place till the glue dries. If you use spray adhesive, spray both surfaces and let dry a couple minutes (2-3 minutes). It will stick like contact cement and not slide around. Be prepared to pull portions back off, restreatch, reglue reattach. Tape off the roof rail and front and rear roof so you don't get glue on the paint. (we tape the whole roof off...)

streetgrande69 · Dec 11, 2008

Pooley said:
Yes I will remove the rear glass but in the front my headliner was not under the glass there is a trim piece with screws in the front of the 69.

You’re right....the rear glass comes out and the front stays in. in the back the headliner actually wraps around the lip that the rear window gasket sits on.

Here is my advice....take it as you want. I remove the seats; it takes 5 minutes and saves you an hour of climbing around in the car. Cut out the rear glass.....be CAREFUL!!
Get some 3m spray adhesive. Start at one end and work your way around. This time of year is the worst for doing this...you need a good hot day to make the headliner stretch and more workable. I use black office clips....got them from work for free u use 30 maybe more. I also use POR 15 ( POR-15 Inc. ) in on the lip to preserve where the gasket sits. You could have a mobile glass company swing by and install the window to ensure there won't be leaks.

oboebrian used to have a pretty decent write-up on his site but it looks like his site is gone.

Good luck

good luck!

streetgrande69 · Dec 11, 2008

Couple more things...careful where the insulation is...if you put it above a bow....it'll cause problems. Also, like mentioned, TAPE OFF STUFF YOU DON'T WANT THE GLUE ON!!

...I don't know where you want to use flat black on but I’ve used the charcoal black metallic paint on the lower dash and semi gloss for everything else. Most parts houses sell the correct metallic black for your car. here is a link....I know it's expensive but it'll get you pointed in the right direction as for type and color.
Original Auto Paint and Vinyl Dye - On Line Catalog - (name not found) - 67-73 CHARCOAL BLACK - SEMI-GLOSS - Product Detail Page
Original Auto Paint and Vinyl Dye - On Line Catalog - Classic Mustang - Interior - 1964 - 1973 - Product List Page

PS bnickel always has something unless he's taken his meds....sup bro...LOL!

Helpful link....

Headliner Install

streetgrande69 · Dec 11, 2008

and don't mix up the bows....there is color coding for a reason!

4tun8 · Dec 12, 2008

?4?I'm going to order the parts from Tony D. Branda please correct me if I should go somewhere else he has the headliner for 34.95 I will also be getting the glue and be asking about a roll of the padding and a set of the rods for the sunvisor (mine look too old)

There are places to get that item cheaper. 31.95 is what we sell it for. I'm not sure if we're set up as a vendor here or what the rules are regarding posting up things like that, so I will just say that 31.95 + 4.95 S&H is what we sell it for.

Edit: I see we are sponsors here. CJponyparts is the place then =)

Pooley · Dec 12, 2008

Next step

I have the interior completely out of the car I did keep the ribs in order still in the old headliner I have the kit off ebay. looks good the rear glass has been cut out and loose I just need to get someone to help me take it out I'm going to pad the roof of the car and put the glass there. I think I'm going to get the 3M spray glue I know that will be better than this can that came with the kit (? is it 3M headliner spray glue?) or the same stuff that can be bought any ware 3M spray adhesive?

I'm going to lay the headliner out on the floor and use a hair dryer to heat it up a bit.

If I just use the new seal will it leek?

BarnStang · Dec 12, 2008

Careful with the hairdryer. Don't too aggressive with it. It just needs to be warm, not baked.

3M makes several different types. The 3M adhesive is a fine spray, the headliner adhesive is thicker, but not stringy. The trim adhesive it thick and stringy to cover more area, and go on heavier. We used the headliner adhesive on the last one we did. I liked the consistancy of the spray and degree of thickness it went on with. Not too thin, not too heavy. The regular spray adhesive I think is too thin.

Yes, almost certainly will leak if put on dry.

Pooley · Dec 12, 2008

What sealant

Ok I need to seal the window where to seal between the rubber and glass or rubber and the metal, and what name product or will just any silicone work

Thank you all so much!!

BarnStang · Dec 13, 2008

You will get many different methods to do this. Most all are messy. I get the RTV in the cheezewhiz can. (Expensive ). Lay a bead in the glass channel. It should be enough to cover the width of the channel and as deep as the width of the channel. Don't fill the channel or you will have a HUGE mess. But enough to fillthe gaps where the glass won't reach once its in. (The glass can "move" in the seal slightly up down left right)
Then I lay a bead around the peremeter of the metal lip. Not in the corner and not on the edge, right in the center. Again, not too much. Enough to only make a small mess...

Put the seal on the glass, thin rope in the outside channel with the ends at the bottom, set the glass in the bottom first and work it in. Try to arrange the tasks so you can keep moving along. You need to finish before the RTV sets up.

I finish up with a good thick bead of RTV inthegap BUT! Not until I am ready to put the moulding on or the cured RTV will make the moulding clips too hard to spring and let the moulding snap in, will cause more dents inthe moulding trying to force it into the clips that are now in a block of cured RTV. Ask me how I know...

Thats what I do. Haven't had one leak yet. And we spray them down with the hose too.

Pooley · Dec 24, 2008

cheeze wiz

Ok where do I get the RTV in a can and whats the name of it? and I looked up the 3M spray #76 is that the one that I need and Also does any auto parts store sell it or on line only?

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