No arguments on going with the Aluminum heads for top performance... Not what I am looking for.... Good running street machine...
Remind me to tell you how well my Big Block Chevy in my 41 Chevy ran with the HORRIBLE oval port " Pass" heads.....
When you pick a camshaft you want to look at duration and the rpm spread to determine the overall useage and power reality..
I went w/ K35-235-3 camshaft kit....Its in Comp Cams Extreme 4x4 category.......
In my 408 I went with a camshaft w/ .477int .493"ex w 1.6 rockers and duration was 218int and 220ex and lobe sep was 111..Rpm range is 1200-5200rpm's and this is the power it made with pushrods that were .100" too short installed by the shoddy engine builder I trusted...
I know how to verify VTG and with the pushrods being .100" too short put alot of strain on my brand new valveguides and robbed me of a lil hp/torque too..
I do a similar step as this video from youtube except I just use the pushrod I have and I see what the angle is at half lift then I rotate the engine til I get the 90* valve to rocker centerline relation subtract whats needed to get the 90* relation where I need it and thats my pushrod length I need just by using a dial indicator...
Like this guy says once you get proper VTG you can get a proper pushrod length so they go hand in hand.....
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5is9BsH5OU
Even by the naked eye its apparent,,,,,,,,,,,,LOL
pushrods .100" too short and roller tip too far forwards
Heres the witness mark on the valvetip..
Heres how the rockers sat on the valvetips too
Pushrods that arent too short . It sux when a nobody like me knows more than a veteran engine builder.....LOL
If your engine wasnt originally roller camshaft dont do the aftermarket conversion with lifters with link bars as they fail horribly on street driven vehicles.It seems these days that lots of steps are skipped or not done as long and the metal that holds the bars fatigues quickly...
In all cases most say bigger is better but with Edelbrock E-Street heads #5023 w/ 170cc intake runners w/ small stainless steel valves...Most will ask;-Why small valves?...and Ill say to show me how larger valves will produce better than this kind of power in an engine designed for brutal torque.....Intake velocity will actually drop off and torque would suffer horribly...
At idle my engine was producing a solid 21-23inches of mercury too...................My idle was as smooth as a stock vehicle off the assembly line....LOL
I run an Edelbrock 3881 EFI Performer intake that increases torque by 35-40ftlbs on a stock slightly modified engine according to Edelbrock and with my setup on a rearwheel dyno the numbers were over 60ftlbs over the engine dyno numbers tuned w/a moates qh chip finetuned with a AEM wideband controller hooked into the EGR pin #27 on the EEC...
One day either the guy who did the rearwheel dyno test is gonna retrieve the results and send then to me or Ill find the sheet and post the rearwheel results with hp and torque which was 494hp and 509ftlbs at 5200rpm's......Best torque came on around 3100rpms w/568ftlbs and stayed strong to 4400 then started dropping off and not one time did they crossover..........Torque always stayed on top........
Edelbrock and Comp Cams both said the heads were good for producing roughly 400hp and limited to 5500rpm's and the camshaft was good for 400hp and limited at 5200rpm's.....LOL
Put them together with 10.5:1 compression and a good tune and it goes way north of that 400hp with a 4" stroker crank neutrally balanced w/6.250" rods apparently.....LOL
Good Luck with your research and know if somethings worth doing its worth doing right the first time...Saving $$$ on heads doesnt mean squat if it costs you time and more money making the camshaft you bought work instead of getting a camshaft thats practical for your application......
Bigger isnt always better......
Take care..