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Heater Hose Bypass

  • Thread starter Thread starter Foxfirst846
  • Start date Start date Apr 13, 2017
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Foxfirst846

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Apr 13, 2017
#1
  • Apr 13, 2017
  • #1
Hello! I've been reading all kinds of information about how to bypass the metal heater hoses that run along passenger side of intake. My questions are what about the two little hoses that run up to the egr spacer plate... Do they need to be there? Can I bypass them if I'm not running my car in cold temperatures? I've read everything from their there to cool exhaust gases to keeping things from freezing up. I'm just looking to see if I cap them off and bypass my heater hose (because it's already bypassed heater core). Will I have any problems that are minimal or catastrophic? Thanks for all the help!!
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#2
  • Apr 13, 2017
  • #2
Most have been deleted with no issues.
 
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Foxfirst846

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#3
  • Apr 13, 2017
  • #3
So I should be ok to bypass heater hose and just cap off the two little hoses that come off egr spacer? Does anyone have photos where they've done this they can share?? Thanks everyone!!
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#4
  • Apr 13, 2017
  • #4
You can cap off the two hose nipples on the egr spacer but it is not necessarily, they do look a little strange just sticking out all naked, or cut them off. Are you removing the heater tube that runs down the passenger side of the engine?
Cap or remove and plug the hose barb at the back of the intake and your good.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
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#5
  • Apr 13, 2017
  • #5
If your EGR is intact, I would keep the coolant lines, however if it's gone, delete away.

Front line feed from the hard coolant line on the pass side of the intake. Since you are deleting that, it kinda takes care of this line.

Rear line feeds to a nipple on the backside of the lower intake. Remove the nipple, and it's a 3/8" NPT plug.

Done
 
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Foxfirst846

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Jan 24, 2017
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Apr 13, 2017
#6
  • Apr 13, 2017
  • #6
Yes I'm removing the tube that runs down passenger side of intake (or considering it). It currently just runs down side of intake and loops directly back to front of engine.

I will have to check and see if nipple on backside is plugged or not.

Will I have to worry about egr codes or anything doing this?
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
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#7
  • Apr 13, 2017
  • #7
No
 
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mikestang63

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Apr 13, 2017
#8
  • Apr 13, 2017
  • #8
Dont discard the two hard lines that run from the ECT back. They are getting hard to find and go for some $$$ these days.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
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#9
  • Apr 13, 2017
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I think it also contains a sensor that the computer needs for cold startup.
 

jrichker

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#10
  • Apr 13, 2017
  • #10
The ECT sensor lives in the heater tube the comes out of the lower intake manifold. A trip to Home Depot or Lowes will furnish the necessary fittings to mount the sensor directly into the lower intake manifold.
 
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Foxfirst846

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Apr 14, 2017
#11
  • Apr 14, 2017
  • #11
Can anyone advise if the ECT could be problem causing me to have to hold gas pedal to floor to start once cars warmed up?
 

Mustang5L5

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#12
  • Apr 14, 2017
  • #12
Foxfirst846 said:
Can anyone advise if the ECT could be problem causing me to have to hold gas pedal to floor to start once cars warmed up?
Click to expand...

It could potentially be a cause.

Have you run the check engine codes?
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#13
  • Apr 14, 2017
  • #13
Describe your ride, miles, mods and maybe a pic?
 

jrichker

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#14
  • Apr 14, 2017
  • #14
Foxfirst846 said:
Can anyone advise if the ECT could be problem causing me to have to hold gas pedal to floor to start once cars warmed up?
Click to expand...
Yes, that is a symptom common to ECT problems.

Dump codes sticky

Look at the top of the 5.0 Tech forum where the sticky threads are posted. One of them is how to dump the computer codes. Codes may be present even if the CEL (Check Engine Light) isn’t on. You don’t need a code reader or scanner – all you need is a paper clip, or if your lady friend has a hair pin, that will do the job.
I highly suggest that you read it and follow the instructions to dump the codes. http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/how-to-pull-codes-from-eec4.889006/
 
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