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HELP - 302 in a Triumph TR6, clutch ques

  • Thread starter Thread starter V8_TR6
  • Start date Start date Dec 11, 2006
V

V8_TR6

New Member
Dec 10, 2006
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0
Dec 11, 2006
#1
  • Dec 11, 2006
  • #1
I installed a 302 into a TR6 13yrs ago. I have used it as my daily driver until recently when I decided to change the C4 with a T5 (1990). I am sooooooo close to making it work. But I have run into problems with the clutch hydraulic system that I am trying to set up. It is not making the clutch fork travel for enough. I am trying to use an original 3/4" MC from the TR6 that only has 1" of travel. I am using a 7/8" slave but the combo only gives me 3/4" travel at the clutch fork....clearly not enough.

My question is, how much is enough travel at the clutch fork? If I know what I need I can properly size stuff, instead of guessing.

If anyone has experience a hydraulic setup...I will take any advice.

Thanks
Mike
 

joesgt281

Founding Member
Oct 2, 2002
163
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0
Katy, TX
Dec 12, 2006
#2
  • Dec 12, 2006
  • #2
I can't help you with your problem, but would sure like to see some pics of this car (my first car was a TR4A)!
 
V

V8_TR6

New Member
Dec 10, 2006
6
0
0
Dec 12, 2006
#3
  • Dec 12, 2006
  • #3
www.terryandmike.com/cars.html

Are the pictures I have taken during the trans swap....
 

70vert

New Member
Dec 31, 2004
722
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Bay Area, CA
Dec 12, 2006
#4
  • Dec 12, 2006
  • #4
Sounds like you're a regular modern day Carroll Shelby. Nice project! Love to hear how it turns out!
 
6

6T6coupe

Founding Member
Jul 15, 2000
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Dec 13, 2006
#5
  • Dec 13, 2006
  • #5
Without knowing how much travel you have at the MC, it sounds like you need to either add more travel to the clutch pedal or increase the MC bore size to 7/8" or reduce the slave to 3/4". I'm using a 3/4" CMC slave with a 3/4" Tilton MC on my Mustang.

A Wilwood or Tilton cylinder will bolt directly on in place of the original TR6 MC. Same layout and bolt spacing so it should be fairly simple to do the swap. You only need to get an adapter for whatever line you're using.

All this is off the shelf stuff from Speedway or Afco.
 

Shakin66

Founding Member
Jan 19, 2001
628
1
19
Waycross, Ga / Lake James, NC
Dec 13, 2006
#6
  • Dec 13, 2006
  • #6
First of nice car, I cant imagine the power to weight ratio with a 5.0
As far as the throw I also think you could change the original MC to a baer or other brand and fix your problem. I have a T56 in my coupe and went with Mcleod's hyd. throw out bearing and have been really happy with the pedal effort. Either way good luck and nice work.
 
6

66forfun

Member
Feb 25, 2006
260
0
16
Pittsburgh
Dec 13, 2006
#7
  • Dec 13, 2006
  • #7
first of all nice combo.
secondly, ive got nothin to offer on the prob.
third...a close friend has a tr4a that would be sweet if he could ever finish the darn thing.
 

latamud

Founding Member
Oct 22, 2002
791
2
19
Tampa, FL
Dec 13, 2006
#8
  • Dec 13, 2006
  • #8
Sorry, no input but I've been dreaming of building your car, knda like a Sunbeam Tiger. Did you modify the suspension or engine compartment to get everything to work? If so, please give details. Thank you.
 
V

V8_TR6

New Member
Dec 10, 2006
6
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0
Dec 13, 2006
#9
  • Dec 13, 2006
  • #9
I do appreciate the info on the different set ups that have worked for people. I think I am going to move forward on replacing the slave with a ¾” bore, instead of the 7/8”, that should give me additional .25” of travel. Hopefully that should get the clutch to disengage.

To answer some of your questions…. The 302 is very close to the same weight of the original straight 6, therefore the suspension seems to do a pretty good job. All we added was a rear sway bar to help the IRS. So far the original rear has held up to allot of abuse. I think the only thing that has saved it was that fact that it was automatic. The new T5 may make the rear be the next project. When we placed the engine, we move it way back, off the front wheel and as low as possible to help with the handling. The original TR6 had a shelf on the firewall behind the engine where the battery sat; we removed that and made the firewall straight. Fortunately, that was where the original heater box was inside the car, so I opted to install a small A/C unit instead. Being from FL, the A/C helped tremendously during rain storms. I have two 3 chamber flowmasters which produces a nice quite but deep rumble. The car is a blast to drive….hopefully I can get it back on the road soon.

I am still very interested in the different hydraulic set ups that have worked for people.

Thanks
 
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