help a broke college kid out...

thanks jricher, i know its all there, some of it just isn't totally intuitive if you have less experience, like i didn't know where that little plug was on the car, ect...

you have personally helped me out a ton here though, and without this site i doubt my car would still be running:SNSign:

so i've narrowed it down to the fuel pump or the computer since i have power in the circuit at the inertia switch and at the relay and it doesn't fix it with a new relay or when i bypass the inertia switch with a piece of wire, so next step is computer or fuel pump

is there anyway to know which one it could be without replacing them?? would suck to replace a fuel pump in the parking lot of my work for no reason and those ECU's are expensive....


I know I learned ALOT from Jrichker and Hissin :SNSign: and im not the only one.

What I would do before you go dropping the tank is check for power at the fuel pump, or well connector. On mine anyways its right between the rear bumper and tank, I can just stick my hand up there and yank the connection if i ever needed to, not sure if all stangs r like that or just mine. Look somewhere under there anyway, yank apart the connector, ground the fuel pump circuit like how I said to do, or jump the relay, or have someone turn the key on for it to prime....I would use a test light if you use the last method tho since some meters take a full second or two to fully come up the reading n by then the relay might have clicked off. test light youll see there power there instantly, just cant tell exactly how many volts but you know its got power or not, plus you can go by the dimmness of the bulb.

About the computer, can u swap computers with a friends stang to see what happens, guess not, im sure u would have done that already.
and if the filter was clogged the pump should still prime, just have no pressure at the rail.
 
so i should be able to get power at the connector right near the back of the fuel pump assuming my wiring is good right?? i'm getting power at teh relay, at teh inertia switch and not at the fuel pump, and when i run a hot wire directly from the battery to the pink black fuel pump wire i get fuel pressure at the fuel rail, and if i have someone hold that hot to the pink black wire on the fuel pump while i turn over the car it still doesn't start, i'm thinking it must be the ECU then because if the fuel pump is pressurized and the car is sparking and it is turning over but not starting the injectors are not starting, and i'm not getting hot at the pink/black wire at the back of the car,

i'm going to try to find that EEC relay and it now, that is a good idea:):SNSign:

wish i had a stang buddy i could swap an eEC with for minute....
 
I didn't try to re-read all of this but (I tried but kinda got lost with what was going on):

With the FP relay issue, revisit JR's post. You have either a load side (or/blue wire) issue, or a relay coil issue. You said power comes from the inertia switch I think, so that leaves the ground pulse to the relay from the computer.

Also see if there's spark - if not, check inj pulsing. If both are missing, the PIP might not be up to par, which will cause issue.

Good luck.