Black1987Stang
Active Member
thanks jricher, i know its all there, some of it just isn't totally intuitive if you have less experience, like i didn't know where that little plug was on the car, ect...
you have personally helped me out a ton here though, and without this site i doubt my car would still be running:SNSign:
so i've narrowed it down to the fuel pump or the computer since i have power in the circuit at the inertia switch and at the relay and it doesn't fix it with a new relay or when i bypass the inertia switch with a piece of wire, so next step is computer or fuel pump
is there anyway to know which one it could be without replacing them?? would suck to replace a fuel pump in the parking lot of my work for no reason and those ECU's are expensive....
I know I learned ALOT from Jrichker and Hissin :SNSign: and im not the only one.
What I would do before you go dropping the tank is check for power at the fuel pump, or well connector. On mine anyways its right between the rear bumper and tank, I can just stick my hand up there and yank the connection if i ever needed to, not sure if all stangs r like that or just mine. Look somewhere under there anyway, yank apart the connector, ground the fuel pump circuit like how I said to do, or jump the relay, or have someone turn the key on for it to prime....I would use a test light if you use the last method tho since some meters take a full second or two to fully come up the reading n by then the relay might have clicked off. test light youll see there power there instantly, just cant tell exactly how many volts but you know its got power or not, plus you can go by the dimmness of the bulb.
About the computer, can u swap computers with a friends stang to see what happens, guess not, im sure u would have done that already.
and if the filter was clogged the pump should still prime, just have no pressure at the rail.