my good friends at the dealership helped me get the AC going on the stang.. i got it going but had a few problems.. being that i run an electric fan and it toggles on and off.. the AC compressor runs hot and the pop off valve takes out all the freon.. therefore i cant run the AC when im idling or not getting air throught the condensor.. i run a 3.8 tauros fan with haydiings controller (pep boys 21.99 lol) im trying to keep the car DD since in fact, its my only car. I thought about throwing a clutchless fan on there.. i cant afford a DCC controller by any means.. unless you have a DIY or JY setup.. im screwed.. help would be appreciated
help! AC and electric fan woes
- Thread starter Bad92GT
- Start date
bill302
Active Member
have you upgraded your alternator from the 75 amp. to the 130 amp. and are you running underdrive pullys...your problem could be in your charging system... i have problems with my a/c at idle with my underdrives...
I run the stock pulleys and still havent gotten to upgrade the alt.. which i'll do soon since i have access to a couple of JY's for free.. as far as charging, its still doing fine like it is... i have a bigger battery from a tauros with higher starting amps.. its mainly about keeping the AC compressor and Freon cool.. the basically said i need to be able to cool the freon while its at a stop or below 35 mph..
The elec fan idea sounds a lot better than a clutchless mech fan. Score a 3G and a 3.8L taurus e-fan (or something comparable) and see how it does.
FWIW, guys have managed to run low speed on that 3.8L fan with a 2G for a short term kind of thing.
Good luck.
FWIW, guys have managed to run low speed on that 3.8L fan with a 2G for a short term kind of thing.
Good luck.
i have a problem with the ac compressor and freon over heating when the fans not on.. basically making me not able to run AC while at a stop.. thats the problem.. as far as the fan goes i run the 2g, bigger battery, and it does just fine.. its a matter of the compressor overheating
I guess I didnt understand what your issue was. At speed, when there's a ton of ambient airflow, you can run AC. WHen stopped, when ambient air flow comes from the cooling fan, you cant run the AC. I thought a decent fan would help things so you can run the AC while stopped. I guess I missed your point - my bad.Bad92GT said:
If you already have an E-fan, it should be on any time the AC is on. If it isnt, I would make it so that it is.
Good luck.
There are two things that effect compressor head pressure. The first one is that the A/C system needs to be completely vacuumed down to 28.5" or more for 30-45 minutes. Failure to do this means that there is air left and that creates high head pressures. The air & moisture will combine with the refrigerant to make acid that will destroy your A/C from the inside out.
Secondly, over charging a system with R134a will cause excessive head pressures. The specified R134a charge is 80% of the amount of the original R12 charge. If the original charge was 34 oz including about 7 oz of oil, the new charge with oil is 27 oz. Back out 7 oz of oil and that leaves you with 20 oz of R134a. That works out to about 1 1/2 cans of R134a. The low pressure cutout switch is adjustable via a screw in the top, and may need to be loosened to get the system to run at 24-28 PSI without cutting off and on at idle.
Secondly, over charging a system with R134a will cause excessive head pressures. The specified R134a charge is 80% of the amount of the original R12 charge. If the original charge was 34 oz including about 7 oz of oil, the new charge with oil is 27 oz. Back out 7 oz of oil and that leaves you with 20 oz of R134a. That works out to about 1 1/2 cans of R134a. The low pressure cutout switch is adjustable via a screw in the top, and may need to be loosened to get the system to run at 24-28 PSI without cutting off and on at idle.
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