• Mustang Forums
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

HELP! bleeding brakes, accidentally let master cylinder run DRY! Now what?!?

  • Thread starter Thread starter gary_g
  • Start date Start date Jan 10, 2004

gary_g

Founding Member
Aug 1, 2002
197
0
16
AZ
Jan 10, 2004
#1
  • Jan 10, 2004
  • #1
Okay, I was installing a cobra brake conversion, and when I was bleeding the brake system, I accidentally let the master cylinder run dry. Now the brake pedal requires little to no pressure to press it down. I tested the brakes by rotating the front and rear wheels and then pressing the brake pedal and it did stop the wheel from spinning, but I'm pretty sure that it wont stop me if I'm driving down the road.

The Haynes manual I have says that if this happens, you need a "very expensive tool" to bleed the brake system, and leaves it at that.

Does anyone know what I can do? Other than towing it somewhere?

Thanks,

-g
 

Screwed2V

New Member
Aug 6, 2003
1,255
1
0
Misery
Jan 10, 2004
#2
  • Jan 10, 2004
  • #2
You do in fact need to bleed the brakes now. No way around it.
 

Snarf

New Member
Dec 24, 2003
237
1
0
Lexington, KY
Jan 10, 2004
#3
  • Jan 10, 2004
  • #3
The 'very expensive tool' is an automotive brake bleeder, approx 60 bucks. Its not the end of the world just a tiem consuming thing to fix. No way around this, and I would reccomend you doing it yourself. Its real easy, and a ford shop will no doubt screw ya over to do it.
 

gary_g

Founding Member
Aug 1, 2002
197
0
16
AZ
Jan 10, 2004
#4
  • Jan 10, 2004
  • #4
I hate to ask a stupid question, but what does an automotive brake bleeder do differently than bleeding the brakes manually with a cup and a rubber hose? I was actually finishing up bleeding the brakes manually when I let the cylinder run dry. After refilling the master cylinder I tried re-bleeding all of the brakes, but the brake pedal is still soft.

The automotive brake bleeder will fix that?

Thanks!

-g
 

gary_g

Founding Member
Aug 1, 2002
197
0
16
AZ
Jan 10, 2004
#5
  • Jan 10, 2004
  • #5
gary_g said:
I hate to ask a stupid question, but what does an automotive brake bleeder do differently than bleeding the brakes manually with a cup and a rubber hose? I was actually finishing up bleeding the brakes manually when I let the cylinder run dry. After refilling the master cylinder I tried re-bleeding all of the brakes, but the brake pedal is still soft.

The automotive brake bleeder will fix that?

Thanks!

-g
Click to expand...

Also, is this what I need?

http://www.automotive-brake-tools.com/automobile-brake-bleeder.htm
 
B

bdcardinal

tree hugger
Jun 10, 2003
3,612
16
69
santa barbara, CA
Jan 10, 2004
#6
  • Jan 10, 2004
  • #6
you probably have to bleed the master cylinder. get someone to help you with it and bleed the lines as you would bleeding at the wheels. you will probably have to go ahead and bleed the brakes again, just make sure to keep the cylinder topped up.
 

Snarf

New Member
Dec 24, 2003
237
1
0
Lexington, KY
Jan 10, 2004
#7
  • Jan 10, 2004
  • #7
The differnce betewwen using the vacuum pump [auto bleeder] and doing it manually [hose and bottle] is gravity.

Doign it manually is also called gravity fed bleeding. it will get some of the smaller air bubbles and stuff. It works just fine if your line systems is like 99% purged of air.

You'll need more pressure to force all of the hard-to-reach bubbles out. There are high spots in the stock brake routing that can trap air, and you'll need significantly more oomph than what just gravity bleeding can give you.

Also, this Mityvac system [ http://www.automotive-brake-tools.com/automobile-brake-bleeder.htm ] is the exact bleeder I have in my garage right now. Works like a charm! Hope this helps man.
 

gary_g

Founding Member
Aug 1, 2002
197
0
16
AZ
Jan 11, 2004
#8
  • Jan 11, 2004
  • #8
Okay, I'm totally lost.

I bought the Mityvac Automotive Vacuum system, and I'm still having trouble.

When I try to vacuum bleed the brakes at the calipers, it's just non-stop bubbles. In the manual for the Mityvac system, it says to first bleed the master cylinder before bleeding the brakes themself. I checked in the Haynes manual, and it says in order to bleed the master cylinder you must do the following:

Have an assistant depress the brake pedal. While the brake pedal is depressed, open the bleeder valve on the master cylinder and allow air/fluid to escape. Tighten valve and have assistant remove pressure from the brake pedal. Repeat this process until no air escapes when opening the bleeder valve, then repeat this process on the other bleeder valve on the master cylinder (I guess these are front and back?).

Anyhow...

I did all that, and that went okay. I then attempted to bleed the brakes, and it's STILL nothing but air bubbles. I spent 15 minutes pumping on the same brake, and all it did was suck a fluid/air mixture until it filled up the resevoir on the Mityvac pump.



HELP PLEASE!


I'm pretty sure my friend is getting sick of helping me by now, and I *NEED* to make it to work tomorrow.

Thanks,

-g
 

gary_g

Founding Member
Aug 1, 2002
197
0
16
AZ
Jan 11, 2004
#9
  • Jan 11, 2004
  • #9
Okay, well, here's what (in my infinitely finite wisdom) I decided to do...

After bleeding the master cylinder by pressing/releasing the brake while opening and closing the bleeder valve, I noticed that the pedal seemed to firm up a bit. Not 100% firm, but better than it was before... So, I then tried to bleed the brakes using the vacuum pump, and it was steady bubbles... Since I had already bleed the system at the master cylinder, I decided to try a standard gravity bleed again just for kicks.

Much to my (and my helps) surprise, it spat out bubbles for a few whacks on the brake pedal, and then went to 100% bubble free fluid out of the bleeder valve. I repeated this on all four calipers, and decided that I might as well go for a spin around the block.

Doh!

So after a few near-death experiences, it became immediately apparent that the brakes WERE NOT working correctly. The brakes did stop me, but only after a VERY long slow-down process, which felt almost like brake fade.. ?

So anyways here I sit, stranded at my mothers house where I was doing the install.

Anyone have any ideas? So far everyone I spoke to told me to "take it to a dealer". Is there anything else I should try on my own first? I'm pretty broke, so saving money would be a good thing at this point.

Thanks!

-g
 
D

drb81

New Member
Sep 19, 2003
18
0
0
central fla
Jan 11, 2004
#10
  • Jan 11, 2004
  • #10
bench bleed your master then bleed all four calipers
 
B

Boyd Hamilton

New Member
Jul 9, 2020
1
0
1
keswick ont canada
Jul 10, 2020
#11
  • Jul 10, 2020
  • #11
where can i purchase a vacum pump because i ran master dry i will be working by myself
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,260
17,945
224
Massachusetts
Jul 13, 2020
#12
  • Jul 13, 2020
  • #12
There are two bleeder ports on the side of the master cylinder. Hook these up to a hose and put the end in a bottle. Have a friend pump the pedal while you crack one bleeder at a time.

That should bleed the MC of all air.
 
N

NXcoupe

Active Member
Dec 3, 2009
80
27
28
Dayton, OH
Jul 16, 2020
#13
  • Jul 16, 2020
  • #13
Problem is, it sucks air around the threads of the bleeder since it's loose. Best way to fix your issue is buy a rubber expansion plug from the auto parts store that will fit into the opening of your master cylinder reservoir, then drill a hole thru it large enough for you to force a piece of 3/16" brake line thru the hole. Let it protrude about 1/8 of an inch out the bottom and a couple inches on the top. Slip the hose from your mighty vac over the longer top part of the line and secure with a small hose clamp. Insert the plug into the mc fill opening and use a wrench to snug it in. Then pump and apply vacuum. It helps if you pump the pedal some while under vacuum. Repeat a few times until the pedal is very firm with no vacuum applied.
This setup cost me less than 10 bucks and I use it on hydraulic clutches and hard to bleed brake system. Your problem is with the master cylinder mounted it is at an upward angle and the air rises to the top and won't come out except under vacuum or sitting horizontally.

Sorry for the long post, just trying to help
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

1970 brake issue. Bad booster or?
  • All Stock93
  • May 13, 2025
  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
Replies
10
Views
729
1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk- Sep 13, 2025
All Stock93
R
Brake Master Cylinder replacement steps for 2016 S550?
  • Reybeast
  • Dec 16, 2024
  • 2015 - 2023 (S550) Mustang -General/Talk
Replies
1
Views
529
2015 - 2023 (S550) Mustang -General/Talk Dec 21, 2024
89ripper
D
Brakes 88 LX 5.0 - help! no brakes
  • DRGunn427
  • Feb 26, 2025
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
4
Views
431
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Feb 27, 2025
nickyb
E
Finished my Fox Hydroboost Install - Tips
  • Engineer Duane
  • Apr 9, 2025
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
4
Views
1K
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- May 5, 2025
Engineer Duane
E
D
Brakes 1966 Mustang convertible 289, Auto - Disc brake conversion issues
  • DRGunn427
  • Feb 26, 2025
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech
Replies
5
Views
679
Classic Mustang Specific Tech Jul 23, 2026
All Stock93
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?