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Help Build A 302 For A Sand Rail Using Left Over Parts...

  • Thread starter Thread starter BallzDeep38
  • Start date Start date Apr 30, 2014
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BallzDeep38

New Member
Mar 26, 2011
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Apr 30, 2014
#1
  • Apr 30, 2014
  • #1
  • Hey guys, its been a while since I have been around mustangs and figured you guys were the best ones to ask. I am planning on replacing the current drive train in my sand rail (2275cc VW, 002 VW trans) with a 302 this summer. Heres the catch, I want to use most of the parts I have sitting in my garage to do it. Currently my VW is making around 200 hp and 170 lbs/ft of torque. In order to offset the added ~400 lbs, I want to make sure the 302 has plenty power. While duning, I seem to use alot of lower RPMs in the small tight stuff so torque is important. So far the VW has been adequate, but more is always better right? When we hit the bigger hills or drags I want to be able to run with some of the turbo honda/subaru cars making around 350-400 hp. I plan to try and keep the budget on this as low as I can (within reason), since I will be using parts I already have.

Goals:
  • 300 hp/ 300 ft/lbs of torque N/A
  • 400 hp on Nitrous (100 shot)
  • use existing parts
  • keep the budget low (nothing set in stone yet, but something to keep mind)
  • The sand rail is driven 4-6 times a year in the dunes, and is sometimes driven around town but not often (its street legal)
Parts List:
  • 68 302 head (already rebuilt but unported and they still have the stock size valves)
  • Edelbrock Performer 289 intake manifold
  • Holley Street Dominator intake manifold (divided single plane)
  • Holley 600 cfm vaccume secondaries carb
  • Autolite 4 bbl carb (not sure on the cfm, it came on the Performer manifold IIRC)
  • NOS Nitrous kit for a 87-93 5.0 mustang (p/n 05115)

I will have to source out a short block so id like some recommendations on whats the best and most cost effective way to do it. Is a full bottom end rebuild neccessary? Could I just replace the bearings and rings? What about a cam? what would be a good combination with the heads and intakes listed? I know the Street Dominator manifold is kinda on the rare side nowadays so Id like as much insight on it as I can get. The nitrous kit I have has been sitting for around 10 years, should I replace the solenoids? aside from the plate, what would I need to convert that kit to run on a carb? Thanks in advance guys!
 

horse sence

15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Wile Coyote's stunt double
Apr 30, 2014
#2
  • Apr 30, 2014
  • #2
To start with you will be converting to front engine assume ? Is there going to be room up front . If you are planning on NOS you will need forged pistons,cast pistons will shatter like glass .a 600 holley should work ,but a 650 would be my choice . A duel plane intake is what you will want .I would go with a fresh crank and cleevite 77 bearings and a Melling oil pump.
 
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BallzDeep38

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Mar 26, 2011
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Apr 30, 2014
#3
  • Apr 30, 2014
  • #3
No, the car will remain a rear engine car (reverse facing, same as the VW, with a Mendeola trans. I dont like the idea of running a cast piston, but was considering hypers (especially if I just end up with a 5.0 short block)
 

horse sence

15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
12,252
8,097
233
Wile Coyote's stunt double
Apr 30, 2014
#4
  • Apr 30, 2014
  • #4
It is going to be rear heavy. I went from a VW to a Corvair Spyder and it wanted to wheelie at the slightest touch of the pedal. where did you come across a Mendeola? They are not cheap , i was going to rear engine a 1935 Ford pick up ,until i saw the price tag for the Mendeola.
 
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BallzDeep38

New Member
Mar 26, 2011
6
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2
May 1, 2014
#5
  • May 1, 2014
  • #5
horse sence said:
It is going to be rear heavy. I went from a VW to a Corvair Spyder and it wanted to wheelie at the slightest touch of the pedal. where did you come across a Mendeola? They are not cheap , i was going to rear engine a 1935 Ford pick up ,until i saw the price tag for the Mendeola.
Click to expand...

The mendeolas arent too tough to come by, as long as you are will to pay for them. I plan to sell my 2275/002 to help off set the cost of the trans. The wheelies could be fun, but I plan to have the suspension gone through once the 302 is in. Hopefully that will help keep it down. The sand rail is actually a full fiberglass body Manx with a 2 seat full tube chassis.
 
B

BallzDeep38

New Member
Mar 26, 2011
6
0
2
May 1, 2014
#6
  • May 1, 2014
  • #6
I just double checked the parts in the garage, here is the update:
  • Holley Street Dominator intake is a dual plane, high rise (p/n 300-30z)
  • The Holley Carb is a 450 cfm (p/n 4548)
  • The Autolite carb is a 2 bbl, so thats out for this build.
Im thinking Ill sell the 2 carbs and get a Holley 650 DP. Im leaning towards the Street Dominator intake over the Performer 289. What would be a good cam to go with the Street Dominator and a 650DP?
 

RacerJames

Active Member
Mar 21, 2014
165
23
39
Kingman AZ
May 3, 2014
#7
  • May 3, 2014
  • #7
If you go with a 5.0 short block, the HO's came with forged pistons. The best stuff went into Lincolns. Therfore, I would scour the wrecking yards for a mark 7 with a blown trans. Using that short block, I'd put a B303 cam (or equivalent) in it. The holley 650 carb and intake with those 68 heads should make you happy.
 
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