help dash show ------- check engine light bleeds thru with no key in ignition pics

jmoney2001 · Mar 12, 2011

2002 gt hey guys iam very frustrated with this car. i bought it not too long ago and one day i go to start it and i notice the check engine light is barly on along with some of my gauges having power still when they normally would be off. my dash shows ------- which tells me i have power going into the cluster along with my battery gauge stays on. were would i find a wiring schematic for this car. i have seen other people post the exact same problem but never responded on what they fixed or got fixed. i know its not the computer because the car still starts and runs fine. it when i turn it off and take my key out of the ignition switch is when i have an issue. i have pulled the fuse that holds the memory to the cluster and it all goes away. can someone help me out

cant see in pic but check engine light does bleed through some

trinity_gt · Mar 12, 2011

Judging from the white faces I'd say the cluster has been out of the car to have them installed. I'd probably start by removing the cluster and verifying the connections at the rear of it.

jmoney2001 · Mar 12, 2011

i did the install its been doing it before and aster thew white face install

doubletap4311 · Mar 12, 2011

does your theft light stay on?

jmoney2001 · Mar 13, 2011

yes that has to do with the gauge cluster not receiving info from the ignition switch. you see the cluster acts like its on and it sees no key so the anitheft light comes on.

95Vert383AOD · Mar 13, 2011

Car not shutting off totally like that sounds like the Ignition switch. Its bolted to the steering wheel column midway down and usually comes off with 2 security torx bits.

Heres a link

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-...el:Mustang&hash=item35b01444ea#ht_5003wt_1165

txredgt · Mar 13, 2011

Are you able to start the car? If the car isn't recognizing the keys its a problem with the PATS system. I have changed out my cluster and in order for me to use a different one than stock I had to disable my pats system, otherwise the car won't recognize it and will use it as a anti-theft alarm and will not let you start the car. Our keys are also 'smart' keys unless you have pats disabled as well. It could be like Trinity said just a loose wire when you took out the cluster. When you removed the cluster, did you disconnect the positive battery terminal?

95Vert383AOD · Mar 13, 2011

Notice the Battery gauge in the cluster. The car isn't totally off because its still reading voltage. I could be wrong.....I am frequently. He also said it was doing this before he touched the cluster so i would doubt its a lose wire or something he did. Try a new switch....if it doesn't work you can always return it. This issue has happened to me on a few fords/ lincolns.

Chris

txredgt · Mar 13, 2011

95Vert383AOD said:
Notice the Battery gauge in the cluster. The car isn't totally off because its still reading voltage. I could be wrong.....I am frequently. He also said it was doing this before he touched the cluster so i would doubt its a lose wire or something he did. Try a new switch....if it doesn't work you can always return it. This issue has happened to me on a few fords/ lincolns.

Chris

I meant it more along the lines of did the OP disconnect the battery terminal when he was playing with the cluster before hand. The odometer is located in 2 areas I believe, the rear portion of the cluster and in the computer so it would seem to me that there is a problem with 1 or the other which is why it isn't reading. Doesn't the cluster look like this when reflashing a new tune on the computer with an SCT? I seem to remember it looking like this.

GDawg · Mar 13, 2011

I looked at some info... In my opinion all your devices are connected to your PCM through PIDs (Programmable IDs). When you swapped that instrument cluster or played with (disconnected) the old one, the PCM assumed it was being repaired. Now you have to reflash your computer.

I'm not absolutely sure but after reading some stuff, that's what it looks like to me.

Excuse me if I'm way off.

Here's your schematic and something to read about programming and self-test.

Hope this helps...

jmoney2001 · Mar 13, 2011

you guys rock, its not the switch, i have disconnected it and it has no effect, i have also disconnected the computer with same results. as of now it has to be between the gauge cluster wiring and the battery. i like the wiring diagram but its to fuzzy to make out do you know were i can find a clearer pic

GDawg · Mar 13, 2011

jmoney2001 said:
you guys rock, its not the switch, i have disconnected it and it has no effect, i have also disconnected the computer with same results. as of now it has to be between the gauge cluster wiring and the battery. i like the wiring diagram but its to fuzzy to make out do you know were i can find a clearer pic

I can email you my .pdf file that is real high resolution or you can go to the menu tab "View" at the top of your browser and select "zoom" and you should be able to zoom in close enough. I tried it with FoxFire and I could see it fine.

GDawg · Mar 13, 2011

Pm me your email address and I'll send it to you.

jmoney2001 · Mar 14, 2011

GDawg said:
Pm me your email address and I'll send it to you.

ok i think i may have found a temporary fix, its more of a band aid fix more than anything. i have the following diagram posted and it shows that iam only supposed to have 1 power constant, ( its a memory wire ) when the switch is in the off position. turns out i had one feeding 9.4 volt constant through a wire that is supposed to be off when the ignition key is in the off position and have power in the run position. i just clipped it and ran another wire which turns off when i take out the ignition key. its temp fix but it works.

GDawg · Mar 15, 2011

jmoney2001 said:
ok i think i may have found a temporary fix, its more of a band aid fix more than anything. i have the following diagram posted and it shows that iam only supposed to have 1 power constant, ( its a memory wire ) when the switch is in the off position. turns out i had one feeding 9.4 volt constant through a wire that is supposed to be off when the ignition key is in the off position and have power in the run position. i just clipped it and ran another wire which turns off when i take out the ignition key. its temp fix but it works.

"Hot at all times" vs "switched" would cause some problems. Live and learn. Glad you didn't have to reflash. You should be able to find your switched source off of those diagrams above.

rm07 · Sep 7, 2014

GDawg said:
I looked at some info... In my opinion all your devices are connected to your PCM through PIDs (Programmable IDs). When you swapped that instrument cluster or played with (disconnected) the old one, the PCM assumed it was being repaired. Now you have to reflash your computer.

I'm not absolutely sure but after reading some stuff, that's what it looks like to me.

Excuse me if I'm way off.

Here's your schematic and something to read about programming and self-test.

Hope this helps...

hey GAwd! is there any way that you can email me that .pdf please? I been looking for that and I'm going insane over it. Please!

wmburns · Sep 7, 2014

jmoney2001 said:
2002 gt hey guys iam very frustrated with this car. i bought it not too long ago and one day i go to start it and i notice the check engine light is barly on along with some of my gauges having power still when they normally would be off. my dash shows ------- which tells me i have power going into the cluster along with my battery gauge stays on. were would i find a wiring schematic for this car. i have seen other people post the exact same problem but never responded on what they fixed or got fixed. i know its not the computer because the car still starts and runs fine. it when i turn it off and take my key out of the ignition switch is when i have an issue. i have pulled the fuse that holds the memory to the cluster and it all goes away. can someone help me out
cant see in pic but check engine light does bleed through some

^^^This sounds like a bad ignition switch to me. Remember there are multiple gangs inside the switch and likely one has a stuck contact.

The ignition switch is NOT the same as the key tumbler cylinder. It's easy to change and does NOT require anything to be re-programmed.

Assuming that the cluster and PCM have been programmed for each other in the first place. At the base level when the cluster displays all dashes it means that the cluster and PCM are not talking to each other. Consider if the key is off but the cluster is still getting power, the cluster is wanting to talk to the PCM. But the key is off so the PCM is off as it should be.

This could also be a bad CCRM. IE the relay staying latched when it shouldn't. There are some electrical tests that are needed to rule this in/out. Is there key off power in fuse F2.34, F2.2, F2.8? If any are true this confirms we are on the correct path.

Note, key off power in fuse F2.34 is almost certainly a bad ignition switch.

Another possible cause is cluster PC foil trace solder breakage. It's a common problem with Ford cluster from this time. I have some good links from allfordmustang but this site won't let me post.

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/v6-tech/304608-my-odometer-goes-off.html#post2657361

allfordmustangs.com /forums/v6-tech/304608-my-odometer-goes-off.html#post2657361 <take out the spaces.>

1999-2004 fuse panel schedule:
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...r-swap-wont-fire-please-help.html#post2669271

TeamCaffeineGT · Sep 7, 2014

Has the car been flashed? Most of the time the straight across dashes mean that an OBD2 device is connected and talking to the PCM. Not to derail the highly elaborate convoy above, but the dashes and theft indicator seems to me to be PATS or ECM related. If the ECM has been flashed by the previous owner, what did he use and did he provide the device when he sold you the car? Might be worth reloading the stock tune!

Shouldn't there also be another constant for the flashing theft light besides just the memory constant?

Rene Solis · Sep 21, 2016

Did you figure out the issue? I need help!!

wmburns · Sep 22, 2016

Rene Solis said:
Did you figure out the issue? I need help!!

It would help if you also mentioned some important details such as:

The model year of your car.
The symptoms being experienced
What tests have been done and the results.
What recent repairs have been done to the car.

Without these details we are left to "guess" what your exact problem is.

It's not very likely that someone is going to reply to a more than 4 year old thread. As mentioned in this thread there are multiple "possible" causes for the cluster displaying all dashes. Even if the original poster did respond, how do you know that your problem is exactly the same?

There's some good information in post #17 that should get the trouble shooting started. Detailed accurate tests results can quickly nail down where to look for YOUR problem.

help dash show ------- check engine light bleeds thru with no key in ignition pics

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