Sounds like way too much fuel...also, the plug gaps are questionable. I had a very similar issue in my Lightning...turns out the plugs were gapped to large. I think both are contributing to your problem.
Try NGK TR7's...IIRC.
I put those in the L and with the correct gap, they worked awesome.
TR7's are the part #?? How do I know they are the correct heat range, etc for my motor??? I'd be very interested in a chart or information to help me pick the correct plug and gap for my application.
Yo Fella's. Lets look at the basics here. A NON MODDED, Factory 302 H.O. Engine could easily hit 324 RWHP with a D-1 Procharger, let alone a decked and tricked out 351 Windsor. Your Tuning is Extremely Off, If it is a reputable shop they would know this and would atleast help you solve your problem. I feel the problem lies with the Injectors and the ECU, maybe even the Spark Plug gap like someone noted earlier. I'm no engine builder but I really feel, the best thing to do right now, would be checking your code's and do a standard rundown from there.
I'm starting to wonder if this is where I should start digging deeper before throwing a bunch of IGN parts on it.
First thing I would do is pull the distributor itself and put in a stock replacment one that will work with with the 351 swap ........those MSD distributors are well known for causing untraceable problems
The contacts all look good... What makes you think it might be a distributor problem seeing as how the problem happens under any RPM/Load condition while WOT...If it's not WOT it doesn't happen....I'm just curious if this is really worth messing with?
It's about 200rwhp off, something is seriously wrong.
I'd suspect it's the standalone system. Which in most situations it's better for the professionals to handle.
If all you are expecting to run is in the vicinity of 500rwhp, at least drop down to 60's.
The sale of the 80's would fund the purchase of smaller injectors.
+200 would be nice...Personally, if I could hit 450 with this set-up I'd be very happy.. I 'd be satisified with anything over 420....The dyno is brand new and just calibrated, so it doesn't read as high as some of the other dyno shops....Some other shops probably would have shown +30-40 horse on my set-up..The difference I don't know..But I know they are different..
Why would dropping down to 60 lb injectors be any different than dropping the pulse width on the 80's?? Do they have a finer mist?? Once I get the right adaptor's I'll be able to tap into the ecm.
I would be looking at ignition for a few reasons. Ignition module problems could account for not only the running issues, but the starting ones, as well. In fact, I had very similar problems (though on NA engines) in both my 351 Bronco (turned out to be coil), and my 85 Twister II (ignition module X 2). Symptoms were similar to yours both during start and WOT. So, if you have a spare module and / or coil lying around, you may want to try ruling them out before you dump a ton of cash into other theories. I'll warn you that it's very difficult to bench test modern CDI boxes unless you have some pretty decent knowledge of the systems. Accel took back my box for testing twice and gave me the thumbs-up both times (which led me down a very expensive troubleshooting path). Finally, I threw on a stock Duraspark since nothing else was helping, and all my problems were cured. I sent the box back to Accel again, and they finally admitted that the box was bad.
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A test box would be very expensive for just a test part.....enyawix mentioned something about advance or autozone testing parts...If they can test the box for me, like I said above it's worth a shot....
I guess this is the approach I am going to take...If it sounds ass backwards let me know...
1.) I need to figure out what plug/gap I need....There has to be a method to do this?
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2.) Once I get the right plugs and serial/usb connector I'll datalog my sensors and see if there is anything else the ecm changes with throttle position @ WOT....I'll check my timing to make sure it is where I need to be.
3.)If I don't figure anything out from step 1 and 2 try a new msd box and distributor...(these are expensive test parts, so I'll try this last.) Am I on the right track here? any other recommendations? If anything I should be able to see what's going on with my A/F ratio when I'm getting this problem.