help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! installing clutch quadrant

Dip In Traffic

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Jun 2, 2002
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queens,ny
i figured out how to remove the factory quadrant....too me a while but i got it... now its time to install the billet one piece unit...and im catching hell

i have a 90 mustang there is a beam in the way i cant seem to get the quadrant up in there i also noticed one peg is longer than the other ....

whats the fastest way to install a aftermarket quadrant..its getting cold out there
 
Stick a small pipe (jack handle) through the firewall opening on the engine side and bend the "beam" a little to provide room. I did this to get my old one out, I would not suspect its needed to get a new one in. Just dont get crazy and watch the firewall, you dont want to bend it.
 
in all seriousness if you can get the old quadrant off the new one should slide right on. there are two bars that you have to slide it on to and they should be pretty easy to get to. just fiddle with the pedal a little bit and make sure that the quadrant is the right size and everything. getting an aftermarket quadrant on is a piece of cake compared to getting the old one off
 
i cheated !!! your suppose to be able to slide the pawl off the peg when the clutch pedal is pinned to the floor ... no matter how i pryed it kept jamming on the beam ...so i pulled the clutch cable out the firewall ...from there i could see the pawl i put a screw driver on it and wacked the **** out of it till it split into 3 lil pieces :nice: when all fails break out the BFH ..ill prolly end up bending that metal to get 1/2" room to play ....the area there is just to tight to finnesse it .....more ideas are definatly welcome.
 
HISSIN50 said:
FWIW, the proper way to do a quadrant (IIRC) is to drop the column. :)


ok lemme ask you a stupid question??? how do you drop the coloum on a airbag car ..anything i need to look out for ?? i know on my 88 i just have to take out the two bolts that hold the hood release and the whole thing drops down..

after i drop the column... then what??
 
Whoa! What's all this about bending stuff and dropping columns? This is a very simple procedure done with a pair of pliers and a screwdriver! Once you pry off the quadrant, use some pliers or a screwdriver to get the pawl off of the other shaft. Then all you have to do is slide the aluminum quadrant onto the shafts and secure with the cotter pins. Make sure that the cable leaves the adjuster in the center and is straight with the quadrant.
 

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Sucks, don't it? :) I had to bend the firewall support about 1/4" for my Steeda quadrant to clear. As for the pawl, best way is to use a pair of vise grips and just break the damn thing. There is absolutely NO need to drop the steering column (never heard that one before), and unless you're a fairly big guy you don't need to take the seat out. Yes, it is a tedious pain in the ass, but you will love it when you are done.

P.S.- Helps if the installer has good near vision, i.e. under 40-ish :damnit:
 
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Plan on taking the driver's front seat out and laying a piece of plywood over the exposed seat mount studs. I have been told that it is much easier if you peel the carpet back from under the clutch pedal.

The clutch quadrant kit I used (FMS) was somewhat of a pain to install. This was because I had a real bear of a time getting the old quadrant out due to lack of clearance between the shaft that supports the quadrant and a bracket that was welded under the dash.

When you put the new quadrant in, the quadrant support shaft and the pin in the end of the clutch pedal MUST be absolutely parallel. Mine wasn’t and I ended up drilling the clutch pivot pin hole in the new quadrant slightly oversize to get it to fit.

The FMS cable has a steel ring with an ear with a hole in it on the firewall end of the cable. I pushed the ring flush with the firewall and drilled a hole through the ear and put a sheet metal screw in it to hold the cable in place – makes the whole thing easier to assemble & adjust.

The binding common to adjustable cables is often due to misplacement of the adjusting nuts on the fork end of the cable. Both nuts should be on the back side of the fork so that the domed nut faces the fork and the other nut serves as jam or locknut to the domed nut.

Have fun and keep lots of Band-Aids handy – you may need them.
 
Dip In Traffic said:
under my dash doesnt look like that...... if it did ide be done in two seconds .. what year car is that pic from???

That pic is from an install article I did for Mustang Enthusiast magazine. We were installing my Micro-Click adjuster and quadrant on an 01 Cobra.
But....the stock quadrant and mounting shafts are the same on your car.

Here are some pics:
one of the mounting shafts or pins- you can see the adjuster above
the other of the aluminum quad mounted w/spacers
 

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I did a quadrant and firewall adjuster in mine this spring and it only took me about 1/2 an hour. I also have a '94 GT which is the same basic interior as the "new edge" mustangs that gives ALOT more room under the dash than the foxes and therefore makes the quadrant change easy.

Unfortunately for the fox body owners, it is a tighter space under the dash to do the quadrant swap. :(
 
"the stock quadrant and mounting shafts are the same on your car"

i agree its the same but its surroundings is the problem ...i dropped the column wacked the beam and it slipped right on the frirst try ....btw dropping the coulmn is really not needed..its just more stuff for me to put back together ... thanks alot guys
 
MR.FIORE i have a question for you ....how important is it to put spacers on the two shafts? i realize i didnt put any on..i drove the car about 25 new york city miles stop and go ... i didnt feel any binding ... also

i have and adjustable clutch linkage...how do i adjust it?? i just snugged it up against the clutch fork.. the clutch fork still has a lil play in it when the pedal is fully released. the end of the cable hits the lil cover that keeps the dirt out is that normal?