HELP!..Just installed MiniStarter and......

Ny Mustang Guy

Ny Mustang Guy

Founding Member
Dec 10, 2001
322
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Queens Nyc
#1
What's Up Guys,,

My OEM starter took a dump on me today so I had to push start my ride to get back home.. Luckily I had a Mini Starter I had recently bought for $85 and decided to throw it in. Althought the stupid diagram was misleading I read the instructions all the way through and everything is hooked up right.(Big wire goes on side with +Battery Wire, And smaller wire goes on the opposite side of the cylinoid where the big wire used to be) I checked over all the wiring and everything is tight and there are no ground wire issues.

The starter seems to be cranking fine but now my car is not starting.. Just cranking and cranking and cranking... It has spark, it has fuel Pressure, Fresh Battery, Injection Pulse is good, Any suggestions as to what it can be? CAR RAN PERFECTLY FINE BEFORE AND AFTER MY OEM STARTER TOOK A CRAP!..Now that this new starter is installed it will not turn over now! I am 100% Positive the wiring is correct.. I went over it a bunch of times.

IF all else fails and I decude get an OEM starter and that works will I still be able to put Longtubes in?, should i just get an OEM '93 Starter? (being that it is smaller).... :bang: :bang: Hopefully You guys can help me!, I've had no problems with this car before this!.

Thanks :SNSign:
 
#4
The starter is working just fine. Changing it out will not help you. Did you touch any other wiring off the solenoid? It sounds like you may have an issue there, but the starter is working the way it's supposed to. Look elsewhere.
 
#5
nothing else was touched.. thats the problem.. It started fine with the stock starter (When it was still good.) and it ran fine.. thats why I don't get it. Like i said before It has spark, it has fuel Pressure, Fresh Battery, Injection Pulse is good.. Car just doesnt want to start... I will look some more tomorrow
 
#6
:shrug: It does kind of sound like the starter isn't spinning fast enough to turn the car over...:shrug: Argh My brain is mush right now.. I'll take a look at it again tomorrow.. thanks for the responses so far.. I will check this Post and take a look at the car in the morning!:nice:
 
#7
Jeremy's idea was the same as mine - as far as electrical stuff being messed with during the swap, the solenoid connections are the most likely.

FWIW, if you find that you have drag issues (bendix to ring gear), rather than running the small (S-terminal) wire to the stock solenoid's output, you can remove it and run it (via an extension) directly to the new starter's piggyback solenoid S-terminal connection. This will keep you from energizing two relays when beginning to crank, as well as waiting for two fields to collapse once you release the key.

Is there any chance the motor is just flooded from an initial anomoly or testing components?

Good luck.
 
#9
It seems as if the injectors aren't engaging or something.. I can't explain it. As if it is TRYING to start.. but just wont.. just sputters as if its about to start.. It never did this before I put the new starter in.. this is my 1st problem I've ever had with this car.. I was just doing a simple starter swap!.. It didn't have to be this difficult! LOL.. I can swear I didn't touch anything else!. I will most likely go out and swap in an OEM starter just to see if it does the trick (For the heck of it)For it WAS working just fine with the stock starter before it decided to go south on me. and like I said before (Sorry for saying this so many times!) It has spark, it has fuel Pressure, Fresh Battery, Injection Pulse is good. I will check the solenoid connections again tomorrow I guess.
 
#10
Just out of curiosity, does it still run if you push start it? The starter should have zero impact on everything else. Any possibility that maybe you could have bumped something, or maybe some electrical connection is loose elsewhere? My '95 has a ground issue that causes it to crank slowly, so a lot of the time it doesn't want to start. That should be resolved shortly however, when I relocate the battery to the trunk. Any corrosion that you see on any terminals?
 
#11
When the Original starter was still in and was beggining to crap out on me today (between11am-3pm turning it on and off parking and whatnot) it ran perfectly fine.. then the starter finally died out an hr later .. it ran fine when I got it push started.. I immediately brough it home and started taking out the old starter and connected the new starter afterwards. Battery is relocated to the trunk and there is no corrosion on the terminals.. I had a small battery that died out on me 2 times before (I guess from sitting 2-3days those both times).. I just put a fresh larger battery in tonight because of that. I havent tried to push start it with the new starter in, for I gave up around 10pm for tomorrow.. what I do know is that it did start twice... it started like sh&& those 2 times but once it started and it was running fine.. Right after I turned it off the 1st time it took a very long time to get it to started again the 2nd time.. Even hitting it with Starter Fluid. right after that I gave up trying to start it a 3rd time.. its as if the starter isnt producing enough power to turn it over or something.. very weird.. I will check it out more tomorrow (well it's 1am now.. so I guess I will check it out "Later"..lol) Good thing I have no work tomorrow..*cough* I mean today.. Time for Bed Cant think right anymore.. And I must of edited this response like 10 times already.. Jeez
 
#12
If you have a noid light, put it on an injector to make sure the injectors are getting the signal to fire.

You are sure the FP is priming? The thing is that the solenoid connection is where half the car gets its power, so if one wire was left off and got tucked away, or a link burned if something shorted, etc, it will cause a nasty issue.

In going over it tomorrow, you should fine the issue pretty easy. You can use Jrichker's cranks but wont fire checklist as a sounding board for things to systematically check.

Good luck.
 
#13
used the noid light, and the injectors were getting the signal to fire, the funny thing was both the times i got the car to start.. the noid light was connected LOL FP IS Priming. that is the 1st thing I checked.

Besides that I have all the signals and it is just weird that it will not fire.. Because every check I've done is telling me that it should fire right up.. it must be something small that I am over looking.. My GF's father is a mechanic and he's going to help me out when I look at it.. 2 heads will be better than one.. HOPEFULLY.. LOL.. I will look over the list.
If you don't Mind can you post the link to that list please.

Thanks
 
#15
Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs

1.) Remove push on connector from starter solenoid and turn ignition switch on. Place car in neutral or Park. Remove coil wire from distributor & and hold 3/8” away from engine block. Jumper the screw to the big bolt on the starter solenoid that has the battery wire connected to it. You should get a nice fat blue spark. Spark used test light and voltometer on things.. everything seemed A OK..

2.) Spark at coil wire, pull #1 plug wire off at the spark plug and check to see spark. No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
Spark

3.) Spark at spark plug, but no start.
A Little Better but still no start

Clue – listen for the fuel pump to prime when you first turn the ignition switch on. It should run for 5-20 seconds and shut off. Fuel pump primes, Fuel pressure ok

Fuel pressure OK, the injectors are not firing.

Noid Light shows power


4.) Spark & fuel pressure OK.

A.) Failed IAB (no airflow to start engine). Press the throttle ¼ way down and try to start the car. Eh didnt really help
B.) Failed computer (not very likely) hope not.. it ran fine JUST BEFORE...
C.) Engine ignition or cam timing off: only likely if the engine has been worked on recently). Nope
D.) Firing order off: HO & 351 use a different firing order from the non HO engines.
HO & 351W 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 Na.. it was running/starting (Before the pump took a dump) fine before
E.) No start when hot - Press the throttle to the floor & try starting it if you get this far. If it starts, replace the ECT. well the two times i got it to start.. it was when I did this.. but the car wasn't hot

hmm... what now?:jaw:
 
#16
well.. I cleaned the spark plugs and it took a little while but it basically started up.. idled fine... but once i shut the car off to try and start again.. it started but sounded as if the starter overrevved once the car was started (like when u push the key in the start position after the car is on and it makes tht CRRR sound)... it started twice.. with that sound.. the same sound it made when i got it to start the 1st time.. and now its back to not starting.. all i know is when the car is started it runs perfect..
 
#17
I don't know guys.. was supposed to be a simple starter switch.. i didn't touch or move anything else.. wtf... Anyone think MAYBE it may be the mini starter?.. that's the only thing I changed... and look at the tests.. all aok.. maybe the starter is robbing power from the computer? If something was blown in the starter it would obviously not turn over..well it is turning over.. doesnt seem to be turning over fast enough.. or it turns too fast.. this is just a statement by EAR.. I dont know anymore.. time to throw in a good OEM starter and see if it works.. if it doesnt I can atleast rule out the starter.. and return the OEM starter... Thanks for the help so far Guys
 
#18
I put the Ford FRPP M11000-A50 mini starter on my 82 last week. It cranks so well, I thought it was going to turn the whole d@^n car over. I was surprised at the way it was wired, and, and yes, it has two relays in series, but it seems to work great.

Cranking speed is much faster than with the original starter from my 1980 parts car.

I would check the tfi stuff or some of the other connections.
 
#19
check to make sure your oil isn't gas saturated, from all this starting

Try disconnecting the battery, this will reset the computer, maybe there was a glitch

You remembered to disconnect the battery, before you started on the starter right?

Duro
 
#20
yeah I disconnected the battery before I installed the starter.. Well I decided to go and buy a stock Starter and stick it in to see if it would do the job and the car started right up.. I am assuming there is something wrong with the starter being that i am 110% Positive that I installed it correctly! Sucks.. i am going to put my LT's in soon and I now have a stock starter to deal with getting in the way and possible heatsoak! lol.. Now what to do with the starter that didn't work.. I will get a hold of the person I bought the starter off of. thanks alot for all the info guys.. the starter may not have worked but atleast i did get alot of useful info for future reference in the meantime.

later
 
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