help me build
- Thread starter ms93gt
- Start date
ECU5.0
Banned
i get two paychecks a month....one goes to rent and bills, the other goes to food and beer and thats about it. the only time i get car parts is when i put it on the credit card and than starve for a week because i had to pay my credit card bill.
lol
Ok back onto subject. I'm alittle stumped here. The big flowing intakes such as the r series, victor jr, and holley all have operating ranges between 3500-7500rpms, does this mean I will lose torque because this is a street car and needs stoplight to stoplight power just as much as it needs high rpms to get me 10's?
Ok back onto subject. I'm alittle stumped here. The big flowing intakes such as the r series, victor jr, and holley all have operating ranges between 3500-7500rpms, does this mean I will lose torque because this is a street car and needs stoplight to stoplight power just as much as it needs high rpms to get me 10's?
ms93gt said:
Absolutly not. Remember, your building a 3.40 stroke 347, not a 289
The rpm rating of the manifold will drop once you increase the stroke. Also the camshaft plays a huge role in the equation as well. For your goal of 10's, you NEED the bigger intake. The bigger intake won't make as much below 3000, but where do you race? Build the engine to make power, don't be one of those wussys who cry about low end torque. You want a 10 second car so you'll have to spin it higher which requires a bigger intake like a victor, tfs r, tfs r box ect. Talk to your cam grinder about what intake to run and what is needed to run the number you want. I run the tfs-R and to say it doesn't have low end snap would be a joke
If you can swing it, i'd port the heads and you WILL be changing valve springs too. If they open up the chambers for the port job, you'll be milling the heads too. You want at least 10.5:1 compression.
Just remember when everything is going to start adding up and quick! Machine work/balancing (as you stated) and all the other components to make it work right. You'll want new lifters/timing chaing/etc...etc...to be on the safe side. I really doubt your going to see 10's on street radials with out some serious suspension work. It takes a lot of money to make a true street car workable on the street when you start digging into engines. Of course a street car definition is subjective...
5spd GT said:
Well I got new trickflow lifters, new comp vavle springs and new comp timing chain. My father is a machinist and I was wondering if maybe he could notch the block for me so that could save me some money, then alls I'll need is it to be balanced and assembled. Who can port my heads for me?
You have to mock the assembly up and notch where there may be interference.
Ed curtis can port heads, fox lake can port heads, TEA can port heads, MCRP.us can port heads. Good porting done right is gonna cost you. Don't pick the valve spring until the cam is chosen, then let the cam grinder pick the spring.
Ed curtis can port heads, fox lake can port heads, TEA can port heads, MCRP.us can port heads. Good porting done right is gonna cost you. Don't pick the valve spring until the cam is chosen, then let the cam grinder pick the spring.
Orrrrrr. What about this. Is this kit any good?
CHP 347ci Street Fighter-GT
4.000 to 4.040 bore - 3.400 stroke - Flat top piston
Cast steel crankshaft
CHP CNC Beam forged steel connecting rods (5.400)
Probe SRS forged pistons
$1999.99
Would it be better to just buy the shortblock that way it's all assembled, blueprinted, and balanced?
CHP 347ci Street Fighter-GT
4.000 to 4.040 bore - 3.400 stroke - Flat top piston
Cast steel crankshaft
CHP CNC Beam forged steel connecting rods (5.400)
Probe SRS forged pistons
$1999.99
Would it be better to just buy the shortblock that way it's all assembled, blueprinted, and balanced?
$2,000 for a rotating assembly is way too much for a stock block combo. What ALL did that $2,000 include? For a few hundred more I got a fully built, balanced, blueprinted shortblock from Rick 91GT.
Have a shop notch the block.
Have a shop notch the block.
Thats a fair price for a basic 347 shortblock. Don't forget you still need an oil pump and shaft and a balancer/flywheel among other things. I would balance it to 28oz given your speed goals and the fact that you'll be revving it higher. Why not give Rick a call or Email when he gets back from his honeymoon? He'll give you a very fair price on a shortblock and won't sell you something you don't need. Link in my sig 
Not sure with box stock wedges and a a 347 built from a factory block you are going to get near the 10's, maybe 11.50 or so.
You are going to need to have the wedges ported or extrude honed. And maybe that will get you there.
Most 347's that break into the 10's are made from 4 bolt blocks, so they can be spun up to 7500rpm, where's you are going to have to stop around 6000.
You are going to need to have the wedges ported or extrude honed. And maybe that will get you there.
Most 347's that break into the 10's are made from 4 bolt blocks, so they can be spun up to 7500rpm, where's you are going to have to stop around 6000.
2000xp8 said:
I run unported TW heads on an 11:1 347. I agree that porting is a good idea. 10 second power is attainable with out porting them with the right camshaft, manifold and supporting goodies. My cam is designed to be shifted around 6600-6700, its a custom FTI cam. My car should be good for 11.00/120mph power if Ed got me what I asked for. If you have the money, port the heads though.
ms93gt said:
That is where balancing comes into play. I could imagine an unbalanced rotating assembly would get rather harsh at higher RPM's.
ms93gt said:
Calling what i say a lie? Tell me you think i'm wrong, but don't accuse someone of lying. Funny you come here with some idea of building a 347 for under $1000, then accuse someone that's been here and around mustangs for 13 years a liar.
And What 306's? I don't see any?
And keep in mind, some guys that don't drive their cars daily, or are race cars, fill their water jackets on the blocks which adds a major amount of strength but it's not functional on a normal street car. So don't go quoting some guys time that runs a specific class, and only have to make 1 pass every 2 hours, then put the car on a trailer.
I have not seen a single guy on stangnet that runs low 11's on a 306 with a stock bock spinning to 7 grand.
In fact i've seen very few in the 11's NA, period.
Anything can be done and there is exceptions to everything, but that doesn't mean it will work for everyone. Speculating on ET based on other peoples setups is rarely reliable.
2000xp8 said:
I have a stock block. It doesn't see that rpm all the time, thats what it will be shifted at when running at the track. I agree, I wouldn't want to shift that high all the time. I have the light weight parts to help with rpm though.
If you go to www.andersonfordmotorsport.com you'll see plenty of n/a stock block 302-347" 7000rpm low 11 and high 10 second cars.
