Help me fix my leaks!

The one at the radiator is anti-freeze so it's coming from the cooling system.That rad. hose looks like the clamp is not on the radiator part good. Drain, loosen the clamp, push the hose and the clamp toward the radiator.

Did the chrome valve covers have baffles in them? If so, you might have a problem with wear causing excessive blowby.

I would think if oil was leaking from under the intake, you would have a vacuum leak and a rough running engine. I would wipe it clean and run it and watch. Once oil leaks from anywhere on the engine, it will get sucked under the car and blown everywhere making it impossible to tell where it is coming from.

There is a dye kit you can put in your oil to find leaks if all else fails.

The intake has to be pulled to fix the leak at the back of the engine. It's a tossup as to whether to use the cork end seals or just silicone. I just use silicone. Pull the intake. To keep stuff from getting down in the ports stuff a plastic grocery bag into each one. Get an intake gasket set. Clean the gasket surfaces (heads, intake, block) thoroughly. They must pass the white glove test. Use lacquer thinner or wax and grease remover. Once everything is clean use gasket cement to glue the side gaskets into place. DO NOT put any gasket cement on the intake side of the gasket. Carefully set the intake straight down into place. Observe how big the gaps are for the front and rear end rails. Lift the intake back off. Put a bead of silicone on each end rail. The bead MUST be thicker than the gap. At this point do not put any silicone on the heads or intake at all - only on the end rails. Let the bead of silcone sit for about an hour (it should skin over in that time). Use your finger to put a thin layer of silicone around each water port on the intake and on each end rail on the intake. DO NOT put any silicone around the intake ports - the gasoline will dissolve it. Put a blob of silcone at the four points where the end rails meet the head. Drop the intake STRAIGHT DOWN into place - don't slide it around. Put in all the intake bolts and thread them in finger tight. Then walk away for 24 hours. Come back and torque the intake bolts down in the proper sequence.

The end of the intake wasn't sealed properly. Do as the bove has stated. You can use four longer bolts for the intake with the heads cut off to guide the intake on. Once it is set in place back them out and replace them with proper ones.

Do you have a proper PCV from the other valve cover to the carb? If it is blocked the pressure will be coming out of your breather carrying the oil with it.

The rad leak looks to be coming from the lower tank seam just above the tranny fitting where it is soldered to the core and collecting on the bottom of the rad. You will have to get the engine warmed up or use a pressure tester and see where it is bubbling from.

19stang66 said:

the other valve cover has a hole in it with a plug in it. There is no hose running to the carb. Its just capped off. Does anyone know if the radiator stop leak stuff in a bottle is any good? I bought some tonight and was going to try it out tomorrow. Its a metal looking fluid in a bottle.

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Now the filler cap is the vent for the crankcase and it's blowing oil.
you need to install a pvc valve and hose to the other cover.

PB

The PCV valve plugs into the grommet on the valve cover and has a 90 degree outlet. The hose goes goes from that outlet to the large port at the base of your carb or carb spacer, depending on type.