Help me out with these codes!

[tomst9]

I've been having this problem of when i rev my engine, when it returns to idle it stalls. I ran a eec test and it came up with a 94, 44, and 12. I looked them up in the book and it was Secondary air system inoperative, air managment system inoperative, and idle speed control sensor out of range. What are they talking about when they say air management syatem. I did the test a couple of times and i also got once a code that said the mass air had no reading. Can anyone help me out.
thanks
tom

 

[86T-Top]

Codes 94 and 44 are emissions codes. Secondary air system inoperative and air managment system inoperative are referring to the selenoids mounted behind the passanger side shock tower. They are known to go bad, sometimes they crack and create a vaccum leak, and other times they don't work and do not let the vaccum get passed them to the valves in emissions tubes on the passanger side. As for idle speed control sensor out of range, this is reffering to your IAC (idle air control) valve. This is probably causing your car to stall out after you rev it up. Clean it up with some throttle body cleaner, they get clogged up with carbon. If that does not work, I would replace it.

Hope this helps,

Mario

 

[tomst9]

ok, that narrows it down a bit. The iac i cleaned and also tried a one from a different car with no difference. If you check out my cam, i think it is way too lopey for what it is. Its sort of on the lines of a f-303 cam and my friend had one and my car is a lot lopier than his. Also when i start the car when its cold i have to give it gas for a couple of minutes until it will idle on its own. Is that suppose to so that with my cam
thanks for the replies
tom

 

[86T-Top]

What is your idle speed set to? You may want to increase it with your cam, I know I had to on mine once I put the E cam in it. I got the idle plate that mounts between your Throttle Body and IAC. It worked great. As for cold idle even with my e cam in real cold weather I have to give it a bit of gas to keep it running. I think it is the nature of the beast when moding your car. I could be wrong about that though.

Mario

 

[tomst9]

when ts warm, its at about 700rpms. I was thinking that i should increase it also. I was thinking of about 900rpms. Anyone else have any ideas on th air mangement systems

 

[tomst9]

ttt

 

[jrichker]

86T-Top's advice is right on target.

Here's some more detail on how to chase the causes of code 44 & 94.

Codes 94 & 44 - Check vacuum lines for leaks, & cracks. Disconnect the big hose from smog pump: with the engine running you should feel air output. Reconnect the smog pump hose & apply vacuum to the first vacuum controlled valve: Its purpose is to either dump the pump's output to the atmosphere or pass it to the next valve. The next vacuum controlled valve directs the air to either the cylinder heads when the engine is cold or to the catalytic converter when the engine is warm. Disconnect the big hoses from the back side of the vacuum controlled valve and start the engine. Apply vacuum to the valve and see if the airflow changes from one hose to the next.
The two electrical controlled vacuum valves mounted on the rear of the passenger side wheelwell turn the vacuum on & off under computer control. Check to see that both valves have +12 volts on the red wire. Then ground the white/red wire and the first solenoid should open and pass vacuum. Do the same thing to the light green/black wire on the second solenoid and it should open and pass vacuum.

Remember that the computer does not source any power, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif