This always comes down to what someone has as to which one is "best". I've owned cars with stock, B&M Ripper, Hurst and Tri-Ax. Both of my stick cars now run Tri-Ax. They are very precise and durable. I tried an MGW for the first time this last weekend and, honestly, I don't see what all the hullabalou is about. Nice? Yes. Fantastic? Meh. Better than my Tri-Ax? Hardly.
I don't believe you broke a Pro5.0 shifter unless you did it with a blow torch. It's like a 3/4" thick steel handle attached to a 1/2-3/4" thick base. Anyway, I've run the pro5.0 for years and love the way it feels. I like being able to throw gears using only my fingers. When I really get after it, I don't have a problem hitting the gears.
Chris
Chris
yea i broke it at the weld joint so i want to impressed. the one i have being made now if it works well when we cut it in steel im going to have a 2nd one made in 7075.
I just swapped a tri-ax out for an MGW about a week ago. Is there a slight difference? Yes. to me it feels as if the engagment is slightly different.
Is it better? Eh, that's like asking what's better? Blonde or Brunette? Really comes down to preference as they are all good shifters...even the $40 ebay shifter can be a decent shifter if you like how it feels to you.
I agree about preference. This shifter debate has been hammered out for so long it's boring. IMHO you can't go wrong with the pro5.0., tri axe or the mgw. they are all well made quality shifters and you can feel satisified that you spent your money well. I always recommend the MGW because I have one it's only natural. I like how it shifts and feels. I would say for sure it is at the same level has the other two. one thing for sure spend the money on a quality shifter which ever you choose, the low price cheap ones are better than stock most of the time, but the springs can be the weak link and they aren't going to give you the same quality for that price.
new debate..Blonde or Brunette? Blonde and has to be natural also
only broke it once lol. if i break the one i designed i have a serious issue! its being dont in a piece of billet steel for the prototype then billet 7075 if i like it. going to have a 5/8 hollow shaft to run the wires that im going to machine into the hurst knob.
btw im not the only one to break them. talked to an NMRA pure street driver and he's broken everyone out there. he's running a long handle now
new design... 19mm one piece body thickness 5/8" threaded shaft to match hurst handle which is hollow so i can run the wires to a button being machined into the hurst handle. 1" lay back from CL of bolts to SL of handle. CG of the handle is roughly the middle of the main body to hopefully help make it feel lighter. roughtly 3.5 inches to the the bottom of the handle. so it should be pretty short also