Help Me Talk This Out/ Finishing 5 Lug

[billison]

Ok, small victory. Basically I worked the passenger side till it was closer to the drivers side. Got it safely around the block. 90% of the noise is gone and most of the dragging is gone. Steering wheel is sideways but that's no surprise. A proper alignment will cure the rest. No longer feel like junking the car.

So tomorrow I start the bleeding, hopefully get the brakes done too.

 

[billison]

Ok, quick question. For a temp fix. Could I pop off the tie rods, center the wheel, set the wheels so they are even with each other, then adjust the tie rods till they would go Back on.. this should get me pretty close right? At least enough to finish my testing ???

 

[Mustang5L5]

That's how an alignment shop will do it.

Yes, adjust the rods with wheel straight


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[90sickfox]

You should be able to get it together. Glad you're not thinking about junking it any more.

 

[billison]

I feel like I about got it under control at this point. Make a bleeding tool out of a bottle and hose. Ended up bleeding my buddies car cuz his brakes went out.


I'll try to get to mine tomorrow.

At least she's fun to look at.

 

[General karthief]

Good look'n car and t top to boot.

 

[Mustang5L5]

At least she's fun to look at.

I prefer to look at my car vs drive it



Nice job



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[Davedacarpainter]

I'm glad it's coming together for you finally.

You can't junk an '88 t-top, there can't be many of those left. You know how scarce that year is.

It looks great too.

 

[billison]

Oh I'd never junk it. Just call it dirty names. I had hoped to do more yesterday but spent like 8 hours getting my buddy back on the road. It was one of those jobs were every part was rusted or stripped.

 

[billison]

Ok, some of this is acknowledging what I did.

Realized I never finished tightening the rear control arms because of needing to do it on the ground. Also remembered that my rear spoiler was just help on by the studs, never added the bolts from test fitting. Once both of these were dealt with I took it for a drive. Almost no more rear end noise. Only issues were the ones I expected, subframes scrape on the driveway , and sounds like some rubbing on the fender up front. Might need to look into the larger 91+ fenders.

At the end of the day, these issues were from being frustrated with other things and getting into a rust with this. But we are through the tunnel.

 

[billison]

Ok. Update with questions. Finally got time to do a proper bleed. Bled the master then the 4 corners. Brakes are much better than before, but not where I would expect.

Here are thing things I noticed.

1. When braking hard there is a (clunk) right as it stops. I don't have the anti moan brackets. Maybe something is still loose.

2. The brakes are not as responsive as I'd like, not terrible but a tad spungy. Still running the stock booster, but suspect a possible small leak somewhere.

3. The rears will lock up before the fronts. I have the adjustable valve full open, any advice on adjusting? If I restrict the rear will the front gain more ?

 

[Mustang5L5]

#1) you're going to have to check to make sure everything's tight. get a rubber mallet and hit each caliper and see if you can duplicate the sound. I forget what calipers you put up front, but on the cobra style calipers, if you don't have the spring clips on the pads, the caliper tends to clunk around when it grabs and releases.

#2) Def recommend the booster. It will increase assist, however if you suspect leak, or think you have any air in the system, chase this down first. With the engine off, that pedal should get rock hard.

#3) I believe 3 turns in from full pressure to the rear is a good starting point. You'll need to tweak from there depending on weight, tires, etc. But basically you are doing to reduce pressure to the rear until the fronts lock slightly before the rears. What I've done in the past is full in to reduce rear pressure, and then as I drive around, open it up 1/2 turn or so to increase pressure, and then test it for a little while before going more open

 

[billison]

As of now. I have basically everything from a 94. Front /rear brakes and master. But I also changed shocks/struts/springs at the same time. It's only on hard stops.

Did some basic tests this morning. First was pumping and holding the brakes. Pedal got solid and stayed that way. No signs of drips under the car and no bubbles in the mc. I'll have to check the major connectors for signs but so far I'm guessing no leaks, maybe just more air. I'm tempted to buy a vacuum bleeder. Held down the brakes and put it in gear, and it'll kill the engine, so I got decent grab. It's at least good enough to drive now., I'm guessing the main culprit is more air. There was a LOT of air in the mc.

I'll plan on doing the booster if that'll improve braking. I have a old 94 booster here I can clean up and use, or I can get a 93 cobra from advanced for about 60 after a coupon, they are basically the same right? Minus the studs and possibly the arm? I prefer the easier install of the 93 if they are functionally the same.

Progress is fun

 

[Mustang5L5]

Boosters are pretty much the same. The 93cobra one will be a slightly easier install. $60 easier? Can't say. I did the SN95 one and didn't have too much of an issue, but in hindsight I prefer the more accurate stud pattern of the cobra booster.

When driving, give the brakes a quick double pump when stopping. Does the pedal feel get firmer? If so, that's a sign of air in the sysem still.

Which MC did you use? the 94-95 GT MC? That's the correct one, so I'd guess the lack of booster would make them not as responsive.

 

[billison]

It should be the 94-95 one. I can check the part number. I'll post more tonight .

 

[billison]

Boosters are pretty much the same. The 93cobra one will be a slightly easier install. $60 easier? Can't say. I did the SN95 one and didn't have too much of an issue, but in hindsight I prefer the more accurate stud pattern of the cobra booster.

When driving, give the brakes a quick double pump when stopping. Does the pedal feel get firmer? If so, that's a sign of air in the sysem still.

Which MC did you use? the 94-95 GT MC? That's the correct one, so I'd guess the lack of booster would make them not as responsive.

Just found out the cheap cobra booster is outta stock. So looks like the 94 is up to the plate.

Reading online about boosters. I'm reading that the stock booster would possibly result in a hard pedal. I assumed that meant it would feel like a firm pedal when you pump it up .

 

[Mustang5L5]

Yes, I meant does the pedal firm up if you do a double pump?

Go for a drive and find a road where you can safely get to speed and brake. Brake at a decent pace, and while putting pressure on the brakes, do a slight lift, and then reapply. Does the pedal feel change and get a bit firmer, and a bit more responsive? If so, that's a sign you have either air in the system, or a caliper piston/slide pin that may be binding or seized up. Assuming that you just installed these brakes, you would have noticed this, so I would take a pedal that "builds up" when you brake and pump as a sign you still have air in the system

 

[billison]

Ok, went for a trip around the town. First thing I did was check the adjuster. I had assumed having it turned all the way out would have full power to the rears but it may have been full restriction to the rears. Put it at half way and it felt a ton better. Couldn't get it to clunk anymore, that could of been the adjuster or it could of been the spoiler again ( need to bolt it down lol) . From about 30 mph I can lock up the brakes so I'm guessing they are working fine. Maybe I was just expecting more. I'm sure I'll adjust them more.

Did the double pump and didn't feel any change.

I think for now I'm gonna call it done till it gives me reason to look at it again. Gotta deal with couple other things and come back to it.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Good job.


Locking up the tires now means your tires are the weakest part of the brake setup, and there's room for improvement