HELP MY BRAKES SUCK

D

Demolisher

New Member
Dec 7, 2006
26
0
0
#1
Well my brakes suck when i slam on my car it tilts fowards :notnice: and sometimes it doesnt even brake in time i have to down shift and it sux i dont no what be the reason for this i did crash the car once , i also just recently changed out brakes pads help me out guys i almost crashed nasty and thats cuz i was pickin up the hand brake the only thing that saved me is that i swerved the other way and went against traffic if not i wouldve hit the highway straight on and rearend a car i got so LUCKY so now i dont wanna take anychances so it would be appricated if u guyz help me figure out my brake problem i honestly think my car is to acclerated :flag:
 
#3
The stock brakes also scared the crap out of me one too many times until I decided to upgrade. I went with the Bullet brakes (same as Mach1 and Cobra) and it was worth every penny. No more spongy brake pedal or horrible fade. I can't even get these things to fade, and they can lock-up the 275's on the front with ease (well, ABS kicks-in) even on hot pavement. Do it.
 
#10
Demolisher said:
But will this stop of the car tilting foward i mean comon the car doesnt even brake intime sometimes ihave to use the hand brake and i feel the car is to acclerated :shrug:
Click to expand...

Hey man, that is just how these cars are. Mine did the same as yours. Do what I am doing.

#1 MOVE that battery to the BACK of the car and get 40# off the front.
#2 I also deleted my a/c. I have the a/c delete pulley if you want to buy it. 40# OFF the front.
#3 I bought cobra 2 piston breaks with 13" rotors.
#4 I will change out the fluid and get my antilock checked (it no workee).
#5 I bought a fibre glass hood (no metal) 25# lighter.
#6 Aluminum heads = roughly 50# off!
#7 Verts yes I finally removed fender weight 25# lighter

That's 40+40+25+ 25 + 50 + (took off smog crap) 10 = 190# OFF the front (add 50# for a 408, lol) = 140#

My FRONT struts are new (oem style) but I am going upgrade....I may sell mine to you for a discounted price if you want them. Taking at least a coupla these steps will help you BIG TIME! :nice: pm me if interested.
 
#11
Pokageek said:
Hey man, that is just how these cars are. Mine did the same as yours. Do what I am doing.

#1 MOVE that battery to the BACK of the car and get 40# off the front.
#2 I also deleted my a/c. I have the a/c delete pulley if you want to buy it. 40# OFF the front.
#3 I bought cobra 2 piston breaks with 13" rotors.
#4 I will change out the fluid and get my antilock checked (it no workee).
#5 I bought a fibre glass hood (no metal) 25# lighter.
#6 Aluminum heads = roughly 50# off!

That's 40+40+25+ 50 + (took off smog crap) 10 = 165# OFF the front (add 50# for a 408, lol) = 115#

My FRONT struts are new (oem style) but I am going upgrade....I may sell mine to you for a discounted price if you want them. Taking at least a coupla these steps will help you BIG TIME! :nice: pm me if interested.
Click to expand...

all that stuff helps, but not as much as a good set of caster/camber plates.

also a stiff set of springs helps--if you are willing to take the trade-off. brake dive is just something these cars have and it takes alot to make it managable.
 
#14
94-302-vert said:
new struts and new cobra brakes up front will help a lot.. new cobra brakes in rear will help a lot too... I did all 4 cobras and got much less brake dive afterward...
Click to expand...

Wait! I though cobra rears were exactly the same rears as GT's. :shrug:

ALSO, I heard if you put a "type" R sticker on the windshield it brakes even better and the car goes faster too!
 
#15
Pokageek said:
Wait! I though cobra rears were exactly the same rears as GT's. :shrug:

ALSO, I heard if you put a "type" R sticker on the windshield it brakes even better and the car goes faster too!
Click to expand...

heheheh


don't mean to hijack the thread, but is there anything involved (other than swapping parts and bolting new ones up) w/ the Mach1/Bullitt/Cobra front brake swap?

i need to do this asap, too, but heard that it's not just a simple swapping of parts because of our spindles hitting something (calliper?) and something about the piston difference... ?
 
#16
the fronts are easy... remove the calipers, lines, etc. put on new rotor, new caliper, and new lines... the bleed...

the rears are more of a chanllenge... the cobra rears are about 1" larger in diameter and vented... so the backing plate to the avle needs to be change, this means pulling the axles... but for me my abs wasn't working and after doing all 4 i was locking up the rear brakes on hard braking... You don't get that with the stock brakes...
 
#17
I just ordered up these brakes this morning, so I'll be able to tell you how they work come Friday or so when they arrive and I can put them on. The front dive that our cars experience when braking has more to do with the suspension geometry than bad brakes, but you can counteract it with better struts up front that decrease the dive.
 
#18
I agree with these guys...your shocks and springs are probably worn out. If you have never bled the brake system its time to flush the whole system. Get that done and see how the brakes feel. I was able to lock up the front wheels on my 95 vert with stock brakes and suspension (55k mi. on it) and 275 front tires. So the stock stuff isnt reall all that bad if you dont wana upgrade. If yor not super abusive to the car (ie. just street driving and drag racing) the stock stuff is fine.
 
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