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help my mustang wont pass emissions

  • Thread starter Thread starter brianfordstang
  • Start date Start date Mar 21, 2006
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brianfordstang

New Member
Mar 21, 2006
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Mar 21, 2006
#1
  • Mar 21, 2006
  • #1
I live in md took my car through emissions and failed for hydrocarbons limit is like 220 and i had 601 ,car has all smog equipment hooked up and working,stock h-pipe with cats,24lb inj,edelbrock intake with 70mm tb,E303cam ,1.7 rockers,155lp pump,bbk adjustable reg set at 39psi ,any suggestions ??????
 
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luckythirteen13

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Jul 19, 2005
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Anaheim, CA
Mar 21, 2006
#2
  • Mar 21, 2006
  • #2
have you done anything to the ignition? a week spark can cause high HC. new plugs, cap and rotor will help
 

mustangphil

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Jul 9, 2002
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No longer The Beach
Mar 21, 2006
#3
  • Mar 21, 2006
  • #3
A gallon of denaturated alcohol in the tank should do the trick. It dropped my HC from 111 to 24.
 

carbed87

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Jun 5, 2005
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Mar 21, 2006
#4
  • Mar 21, 2006
  • #4
as a lst resort, try some seafoam
 
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brianfordstang

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Mar 21, 2006
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#5
  • Mar 21, 2006
  • #5
yeah set ignition to 2 degrees,havent tried alcohol .what is seafoam???
 

troyGT03

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Feb 22, 2004
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too close to memphis,tn
Mar 21, 2006
#6
  • Mar 21, 2006
  • #6
brianfordstang said:
yeah set ignition to 2 degrees,havent tried alcohol .what is seafoam???
Click to expand...
2 degrees? what? typo? check your timing and general tune. plugs,wires, cap,rotor, fuel pressure.
 
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PRO50SC

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Dec 28, 2003
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Olney, Maryland
Mar 21, 2006
#7
  • Mar 21, 2006
  • #7
Bump the f/p back to 30. That's what I did. Passed like a mofo!! I live in Md. too. Emissions here are a bitch!!!
 

jrichker

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Mar 22, 2006
#8
  • Mar 22, 2006
  • #8
How to pass emissions testing:

1.) Make sure all the emissions gear the car was made with is present and connected up properly. That includes a working smog pump and cats.

2.) Make sure that you have fresh tune up with spark plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, fuel & air filters. An oil & filter change is a good idea while you are at it.

3.) Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/article...c-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/det...iption.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.

4.) Post the codes and get help to fix them. Don’t try to pass with codes not fixed. Clearing the computer just temporarily removes them from memory, it doesn’t fix the problem that caused the code to be set.

5.) Be sure to do the testing on a hot engine. Drive for 15-20 minutes prior to taking the test to get operating temps up into the normal range. Do not shut off the engine while waiting for your turn on the test machine. An engine up to full operating temperature puts out fewer emissions.

High NO - high combustion temps - retard timing
High CO - EGR isn't working - fix it.
High HC - fuel mixture too rich - check O2 sensors, smog pump, and cats. Clean MAF element. Do the ethanol thing as suggested.
 
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