stang2841 said:
if I fool around in my car it feels like im driving a boat, I got BBK specific lowering springs and competition engineer subframes and still no such luck.
I think it could be my shocks that makes my car fly everywhere, you go to fishtail and it flys one direction then when you counter steer it flys back, thats normal though for the fox what isnt normal is the front of the car in the air it feels like its in the air......
well heres the thing I want a kit that takes care of everything but I got springs and subframes......
I want a great handling car, dont care if I got to spend 1000 dollars I want a SOLID CAR , another thing is I want 4 Wheel Disks and 5 lug, where would you buy this?
It sounds as if your struts are worn out and/or your shock/strut valving is not matched properly to your spring rates. I'm not sure what spring rates your BBK's are, but I am going to assume that they are a bit more than stock.
With regards to your other handling issues, you are correct that the Fox-body Mustang suspension is prone to "snap" oversteer due to excessive rear roll bind and a high rear roll center. There are a couple of ways to address this, but first let me say to avoid the hard polyurethane bushings in the rear control arms, especially the uppers...it makes this snap oversteer situation worse because these bushings allow it to occur at a higher speed, often with devastating results. There are control arms with a special soft polyurethane bushing at one end to reduce bind...like the Maximum Motorsports pieces. With a street car, you're just better off going with a Steeda 5-link, or Griggs Racing or Maximum Motorsports torque-arm/panhard bar rear suspension, all of which address this roll bind/snap oversteer issue. Pick and choose carefully, for what you don't know about two seemingly similar control arms can put you into the safety wall at the track or into a ditch on the side of a highway.
Other than that, I would use polyurethane bushings (PST, Energy Suspension) in other parts of the suspension and chassis (front control arms, sway bars, struts/shocks, motor & tranny mounts, etc.). However, I would further install grease fittings onto the movable parts so that you can grease them up periodically...they will squeak and wear quickly if allowed to become dry.
Brakes: Let's just say that the fastest cars on the road course are not the ones with the largest engines, but the ones with the largest brakes. That said, get the best system your budget will allow. They can be quite expensive, but truly worth every penny...and you do get what you pay for. Not many mods fall into that category. Baer, Ford Motorsport, Wilwood, Stainless Steel Brakes, and others offer kits for the Mustangs. As a general rule, the larger the rotor diameter and the more pistons on the calipers, the better. Now, you can do a budget-minded 5-lug 4-wheel disc swap utilizing parts from other Ford vehicles and different year Mustangs...and that may be fine for a strictly street-driven vehicle. It's up to you.
Read some of the other "Suspension" threads on this site for further information.
