Help ! Need Help! DAILY DRIVER CAR

[gungfusemaj]

Ok , Recently I have been driven down the road cruising at 45 mph and I noticed my radio had "surged" went off, and came on immediatlly......the next day same scenario except my engine did the same, shut off [Electrical wise.] and came on immediatlly....OK so yesterday i had been driven for about 20 minutes normal driven and Bam! I lose all horsepower, fasten seat belts light comes on and nothing, no dummy lights come on all my lights and radio are still running, IMEDIATTLY I can put the car in Neutral [AOD]and starts up right away, the first few times I could down shift and would startup up no problem but now I have to put the car in Neutral and Away I go. I pulled over and whith the engine running I checked all connections for loose ends etc. 5 minutes of looking nothing and as I am standing there scratching my head It just shuts off.

Ok so My first thought was the battery terminal was just loose, wrong I even pulled The positive wire off going to the Starter Solenoid And all wire going to that cleaned them all Checked Very Thorough every thing for voltage loss lose distributer cap anything and everything.

Does anybody think that I may have a wire getting to hot, is it fuel related, coil related,computer related ,sensor related [have not pulled codes yet]
ignition switch related,AOD related what are the 3 additional wires going to my Starter Solenoid? I really appreciate you taking the time to read this BECAUSE I drive this car to and from work and IT IS RAINING VERY HARD ALL WEEK.

 

[jrichker]

No clues, Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

 

[iwannarace67]

Not driving by any place with a radiology department are you....I dunno that's a weird one

 

[knowlegeable1]

my malibu did this, and it was the alternator, you might want to give that a look over. just an idea.

 

[gungfusemaj]

Ok here are my Codes 34,67,81,82 Could the Nuetral "switch" cause this???????






34
(R)
EVP - EGR did not respond properly during test - EVP

(O,R,M)
EVR - EVP sensor is/was high - EVR

(O,R,M)
PFE - PFE sensor is/was out of range - PFE
67

Park/Neutral circuit fault - PNP


Transmission Manual Lever Position (MLP) sensor circuit - Transmissions

(M)
Intermittent Park Neutral Position (PNP) sensor fault - PNP
81

Boost control solenoid - Solenoids


AIRD solenoid - Solenoids and Air Injection


3 0L SHO - Inlet Air Solenoid - Solenoids
82

2 3L TC - Fan Control wire shorted to ground - A/C and Fan Circuits


AIRB solenoid - Solenoids and Air Injection


3 8L SC - Super Charger Bypass Solenoid - Solenoids

 

[90mustangGT]

Well, it's either fuel or spark, lol. It's hard to say. Like said before, read the codes then go from there. Our old style computers arn't very good for nailing problems, so you might have to troubleshoot. You might have to take it to a professional with the equipment to test and dianose. Paying the dianostic fee might be better than the headache of not knowing what your doing and making the problem worse.

 

[gungfusemaj]

Thanks but This is no dream machine it is my resto Project and it has to get me around. Does any body know anything about the Alternator that would short out a system .

 

[jrichker]

Ok here are my Codes 34,67,81,82 Could the Nuetral "switch" cause this???????
34 (O,R,M) EVR - EVP sensor is/was high - EVR

67 Park/Neutral circuit fault - PNP Transmission Manual Lever Position (MLP) sensor circuit - Transmissions (M) Intermittent Park Neutral Position (PNP) sensor fault - PNP

81 AIRD solenoid - Solenoids and Air Injection

82 AIRB solenoid - Solenoids and Air Injection

Code 34 EGR voltage above closed limit - Failed sensor, bad or missing signal ground, carbon between EGR pintle valve and seat holding the valve off its seat. Remove the EGR valve and clean it with carbon remover. Prior to re-installing see if you can blow air through the EGR valve by mouth. If you can, replace the EGR valve ($85-$95).

Code 67 - clutch not depressed (5 speed) or car not in neutral or park (auto) or A/C in On position when codes where dumped. Possible neutral safety switch or wiring problem. You can generally ignore this code, since it has no effect on engine performance. It will affect some of the tests done with the Key On Engine On tests

Codes 81 & 82 are problems with the smog pump vacuum controls. The test path from codes 44 & 94 will help you find the problems

AIR system inoperative - Air Injection
Check vacuum lines for leaks, & cracks. Disconnect the big hose from smog pump: with the engine running you should feel air output. Reconnect the smog pump hose & apply vacuum to the first vacuum controlled valve: Its purpose is to either dump the pump's output to the atmosphere or pass it to the next valve. The next vacuum controlled valve directs the air to either the cylinder heads when the engine is cold or to the catalytic converter when the engine is warm. Disconnect the big hoses from the back side of the vacuum controlled valve and start the engine. Apply vacuum to the valve and see if the airflow changes from one hose to the next.

The two electrical controlled vacuum valves mounted on the rear of the passenger side wheelwell turn the vacuum on & off under computer control. Check to see that both valves have +12 volts on the red wire. Then ground the white/red wire and the first solenoid should open and pass vacuum. Do the same thing to the light green/black wire on the second solenoid and it should open and pass vacuum.

Remember that the computer does not source any power to actuators, relays or injectors, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif

 

[gungfusemaj]

ok where is the egr valve?

I should know this but I am a little agrivated this sh.. wont stop happeningcruising along and bam no power I can immediatlly put the car in nuetral and a way I go. your saying the egr valve and not the sensor could be bad ......Does the egr valve make a huge difference as in could this be my problem? Thanks

 

[blackstangt]

egr is on the back of the egr spacer which is in between the throttle body and intake...

 

[gungfusemaj]

Right I remember now, Could this cause my engine to shut off and only to return immediatly...............

 

[jrichker]

Right I remember now, Could this cause my engine to shut off and only to return immediatly...............

Not possible unless there is a short to ground in the orange wire that causes the 5 volt Vref to go away.

Look elsewhere for your problems after examining the wiring for bad places .

 

[gungfusemaj]

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=485029
This is my origanl Forum

My new codes are 81,82 which point to Park/Neutral switch Failure.

Ok I can unplug the powergoing to the sensor it doesnt even make a difference.................2nd of all I am strongly think it is a electrical issue because I lose elecrtic immediatlly before the engine. You know how when you start the car and the radio and everything shut off as the car turn over until the engine starts
Well correct me if I am wrong but when you start the car a few thing have to happen... in a manual the clutch has to be engaged to the floor to hit the "Switch" in order to start the car .In a AOD which I have the Park/Nuetral Switch has to be working right So i guess what i am getting at is that if there was a problem with that switch it would not be passing Electricity through the rest of the system, right does is conntinusally pass Current through the syatem? If My switch had a problem It could cause my car to shut down.

 

[gungfusemaj]

Could it be the fuel pump or the Sensor under the driver seat?

 

[gungfusemaj]

Found problem I replaced the Ignition Locking cylinder and it Helped but the problem lies within that column with a flat head screw driver and the cylinder out I can advance to off to running position and everything comes on you hear the fuel pump turn etc. car turns over and runs fine if you barely move the key back it cuts off the engine ...........it pretty much is turning off right before it hit's the point of turning off the key, into the locking postion. right before it hits the click when you turn it your car off.
So when I take a screwdriver and turn it on and if I barely turn it back it shuts off. So somewhere inside of the steering column there is a loose contact it is releasing prematurely. When the old Locking cylinder was in it was worse.
So has anybody had this same problem or know how to get inside of the column basically inside behind the Igniton key Cylinder where the slot fits in the column.