help on choosing cam
- Thread starter jamez1502
- Start date
It's not a very worth while mod to put a cam on stock heads. If you insist, there are plenty of cams that will do OK. My preference of the day is the Crower 15511. 
It's a large enough cam @ .050 that it makes up for the small ports of the E7. I like some of Comp's grinds, too.
With either cam, because of the aggressive ramp rates, you will definitely have to change your valve springs because you WILL experience valve float and in Comp's case, you may even experience coil bind.
Joe
It's a large enough cam @ .050 that it makes up for the small ports of the E7. I like some of Comp's grinds, too.With either cam, because of the aggressive ramp rates, you will definitely have to change your valve springs because you WILL experience valve float and in Comp's case, you may even experience coil bind.
Joe
Scott_95GT
New Member
As long as you get 1.7 rr's, and some valve springs, I think a mild cam would be a great addition to your setup. Obviously heads would be great as well, but not everyone has an extra 600-1000 dollars sitting around, including myself. Go for the cam.
Many suggested something that I did not think of - 1.7:1 rockers and keep the stock cam. Scorpion rockers (IMO, the best and cheapest on the market) can be had from Ed Curtis at www.flowtechinduction.com for 200 bucks. You will need pedestal rockers - not stud mounted.
If you insist on the cam, I can't stress how bad the Ford racing cams are (as a whole). In this sport, you get what you pay for, and that includes camshafts. Yes, they are cheap, but keep in mind the results you will get are mediocre and the idle problems you will experience may make the car a real PITA to drive; stalling at red lights and such.
The short answer: No. It's your engine. Is the extra 150 bucks saved really worth risking an engine? That decision is yours.
Joe
If you insist on the cam, I can't stress how bad the Ford racing cams are (as a whole). In this sport, you get what you pay for, and that includes camshafts. Yes, they are cheap, but keep in mind the results you will get are mediocre and the idle problems you will experience may make the car a real PITA to drive; stalling at red lights and such.
The long answer: It is my personal opinion that the stock valve springs are too weak for the STOCK cam, nonetheless an aftermarket cam with much more aggressive ramp rates and a potential higher operating range. Valve springs lose pressure over time. Lets pretend that in 94 or 95 the car's valve springs had pressures of 120# at the seat and 320# open. Imagine, 10 years and X-amount of miles later, what those pressures have diminished to. I would want a minimum of 135# at the seat and 340# of open pressure with ANY hydraulic camshaft.jamez1502 said:
The short answer: No. It's your engine. Is the extra 150 bucks saved really worth risking an engine? That decision is yours.
Joe
Yes, you should be faster than that. A lot faster. What were your 60' times? I'll bet you that is where it was lost.jamez1502 said:
Put the car on the GOOD sticky tire and the times will drop like you wouldn't believe. I would suggest an ET Street or ET Drag but then you are risking the rear-end of the car. Nitto and BFG's are a tough tire to conquer and take much more tuning and finesse to get your 60's down to where an ET Drag or ET Street would.
In fact, I would take the money set aside from the camshaft install and buy a set of 28-spline axles and a cheap pair of 5-lug 15" wheels and have a set of good sticky tires mounted on them.
Joe
stangboy
Founding Member
I would suggest not getting the cam right now. You said you'll be getting heads this summer. Well, thats not too far away so just wait those few months. Also, if you get a cam that improves you current setup then that cam may not be enough cam for your new heads when you get them. Then you're gonna be buying a cam AGAIN. That's why I just stock-piled parts for my car for 3 years. Then I did EVERYTHING at the same time. I've been having my intake for 3 years...maybe even longer than that, and I got my cam from a friend for cheap, roller rockers for my b-day a couple of year ago, bought my headers from my old mechanic for dirt cheap. All that stuff sat around my house for a long time.....then I got the last thing I was waiting to get....my AFRs. Then I bought a rebuld kit and all the littel knick-knack part the do the rebuild and did everything at one time. It was long and agonizing but the wait paid off. Now my car was stuck at 14.3 at 99mph, I haven't been back to the track since I built the motor but I'm sure it'll turn better times when I go back.
Just give it some thought.
Just give it some thought.
nmcgrawj
Advanced Member
An ET Street is nothing more than a drag slick with grooves in it, just wide enough to make it a DOT tire.nmcgrawj said:
That is a bit of an oversimplification, but it's not far from the truth either. 8.8 rears are hit or miss. Some have bent axles on Nittos and others have been able to launch on nitrous with slicks for years. I wouldn't chance it.
Joe
GTJake
Founding Member
I thought we sported 28 splines stock? Maybe look into some 31 splines? Or are you just saying, quick fix incase he breaks the stockers with some stickies?Joes95GT said:
Jake
I get too ahead of myself and don't think things through sometimes. (What else is new?GTJake said:
). I meant get a set of "strong" aftermarket 28 spline axles, that way he wouldn't have to change the posi and would have the strength of a good axle.Joe
