help: outer tie-rod ends

SOIA

New Member

Oct 22, 2004

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Portage La Prairie, MB

Oct 29, 2004

#1

• Oct 29, 2004

• #1

How do I keep the inner tie rod stationary while I replace the outer?
(it turns as I try to turn the outer)

Thanks,
Chris


edit: 87 GT BTW

 

PNY PWR

New Member

Jul 23, 2004

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Wichita, KS

Oct 29, 2004

#2

• Oct 29, 2004

• #2

IF the inner rod has flats on it use a wrench. If not use a pipe wrench or vice grips.

 

SOIA

New Member

Oct 22, 2004

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Portage La Prairie, MB

Oct 29, 2004

#3

• Oct 29, 2004

• #3

no flats and the vise grips slip

 

D

Daggar

New Member

Jul 19, 2004

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Oct 29, 2004

#4

• Oct 29, 2004

• #4

There is a "tool". I don't have the part number for it but stop by your local Ford dealer and tell them what you want. They can either order it or tell you where to get one. In the past I've used a strap wrench and that works great if you can find one capable of grabbing hold of something that small.

 

PNY PWR

New Member

Jul 23, 2004

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Wichita, KS

Oct 29, 2004

#5

• Oct 29, 2004

• #5

I've heard of the tool as well. Luckily I have a variety of pipe wrenches that work well for that stuff, they won't slip.

 

SOIA

New Member

Oct 22, 2004

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Portage La Prairie, MB

Oct 29, 2004

#6

• Oct 29, 2004

• #6

thanks, I'll have to see what I can do

 

jrichker

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Mar 10, 2000

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Dublin GA

Oct 29, 2004

#7

• Oct 29, 2004

• #7

The tie rod ends can be removed with a tool that looks like a giant "pickle fork", it's less than $8, or some stores will rent/loan one. Remove the cotter pin & nut on the tie end, stick the tool between the rod end and the arm it connects and hammer away. The bigger the hammer, the easier it comes apart.

To change the tie rod ends, do them one at a time. Loosen the jam nut 1/4 turn, then unscrew the tie rod end from the rack. Turn the jam nut back 1/4 turn to return it to its original position. With the tie rod end removed, use a machinist square to measure the distance between the end of the threaded rod and the jam nut. Sit the bottom of the square against the end of the threaded rod, and the end of the blade of the square against the jam nut. Duplicate the measurement on the new rack and then install the tie rod end and tighten the jam nut. Then do the other side: the front end will need aligning, but the toe in will be close enough to the original setting to drive.

 

OL' WHITEY

New Member

Jan 28, 2004

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Weddington, NC

Oct 30, 2004

#8

• Oct 30, 2004

• #8

I just counted the threads and duplicated that setting for my new ends. Took it to the alignment shop and had it checked...it was perfect! Damn I'm good! By the way, it seems like there was a point on the inner rod where the rod was purposely "pinched" in four places, effectively making the rod square. I used vise grips at that point to hold the inner while I loosened the outer. Give 'em a good wipe down and maybe you'll find what I'm talking about. Your inners may be different from mine though. You could always put it in a vise, or even tack weld a bolt to the rod to hold it still. Good luck!

 

Michael Yount

Mustang Master

Apr 10, 2002

9,039

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79

Charlotte, NC

Oct 30, 2004

#9

• Oct 30, 2004

• #9

richker - "Loosen the jam nut 1/4 turn, then unscrew the tie rod end from the rack." I think this step is where he's stumped. To loosen the nut and unscrew the end, you have to keep the rest of the shaft from rotating.

I've never seen one that wasn't "pinched" as described by whitey. Nonetheless, I usually just use a pipe wrench to hold the rest of the steering rod.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

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Oct 30, 2004

#10

• Oct 30, 2004

• #10

im confused too. on an outer tie rod:
a box end wrench holds the jamb nut. the tie rod also had flat spots on its body (for a wrench to go on). so one wrench on the jamb nut and one on the tie rod body and it broke loose. then the rod threads off by hand.

 

Michael Yount

Mustang Master

Apr 10, 2002

9,039

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79

Charlotte, NC

Oct 30, 2004

#11

• Oct 30, 2004

• #11

JT - if you don't know the flats are there (sometimes they're so covered with undercoating and road grime you can't see 'em) or if they're actually not there, and you've been trying unsuccessfully with vice grips to hold the tie rod so you can break the jam nut loose.....after a while you post and ask for help, I guess. Pipe wrench - got it for working on house plumbing; I've used it MUCH more on the car. It's also great for removing the tops of strut tubes to get the cartridge out!

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

31,179

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Oct 30, 2004

#12

• Oct 30, 2004

• #12

Michael Yount said:

JT - if you don't know the flats are there (sometimes they're so covered with undercoating and road grime you can't see 'em) or if they're actually not there, and you've been trying unsuccessfully with vice grips to hold the tie rod so you can break the jam nut loose.....after a while you post and ask for help, I guess. Pipe wrench - got it for working on house plumbing; I've used it MUCH more on the car. It's also great for removing the tops of strut tubes to get the cartridge out!

Click to expand...

ah yes, the man of logic comes and shows me what i could not see. i get it now. (and no offense to SOIA; i was not seeing your perspective before though im sure this is something i struggled with at some point).

i just re-read it and dont know why i did not get it the first time. i need coffee.

SOIA, where are ya? did you get it? good luck.