Help Please

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Dylan Cole

New Member

May 15, 2016

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Apr 11, 2017

#1

• Apr 11, 2017

• #1

Hey everyone, just a couple questions about my 2000 3.8 I'm hoping someone could help me with. And one of them being, why does it shake when I go over 130 KM and when ever I start slowing down after going over 75ish KM. And the second question being, why did my batterylight come on after I red lined a gear? (Reason it happened was I was accelerating and my pedal got caught on my floor mat and it red lined so I pulled my mat back releasing the pedal and then my battery light came one... didn't blink just solid battery light, then ever after turning it off and back on it remained on.) Sorry for the run on sentences, anything helps. Thanks in advance.

 

IIGood

Founding Member

Aug 1, 1998

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Apr 12, 2017

#2

• Apr 12, 2017

• #2

Where do you feel the shaking? Is it in the steering wheel? Or just all over? Does it occur while applying the brakes? It could just be as simple as needing the wheels balanced.

As far as the "battery light"...not sure why it happened, but something in the charging system is probably off. How long ago did the light come on?

 

D

Dylan Cole

New Member

May 15, 2016

15

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1

Apr 12, 2017

#3

• Apr 12, 2017

• #3

IIGood said:

Where do you feel the shaking? Is it in the steering wheel? Or just all over? Does it occur while applying the brakes? It could just be as simple as needing the wheels balanced.

As far as the "battery light"...not sure why it happened, but something in the charging system is probably off. How long ago did the light come on?

Click to expand...

Light came on yesterday coming home from a buddy's and it's still on today, and yea it's my steering wheel it shakes at the higher speeds and then when I start putting the brakes on it does it even more

 

IIGood

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Aug 1, 1998

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Churchton, MD

Apr 12, 2017

#4

• Apr 12, 2017

• #4

Dylan Cole said:

Light came on yesterday coming home from a buddy's and it's still on today, and yea it's my steering wheel it shakes at the higher speeds and then when I start putting the brakes on it does it even more

Click to expand...

"Battery" light: Does the ammeter gauge still read slightly past midway towards the High end of the gauge? Stop in at an auto parts store; they should be able to check your charging system for free.

Shaking: The shaking you describe could be indicative of bad brake rotors.

 

D

Dylan Cole

New Member

May 15, 2016

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Apr 12, 2017

#5

• Apr 12, 2017

• #5

Update: my stero while driving turned off then back on and my battery was at L then not much after I turned my car off and to see if it would turn back over it wouldn't.

 

D

Dylan Cole

New Member

May 15, 2016

15

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Apr 12, 2017

#6

• Apr 12, 2017

• #6

Update: my stero while driving turned off then back on and my battery was at L then not much after I turned my car off and to see if it would turn back over it wouldn't.

 

IIGood

Founding Member

Aug 1, 1998

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Churchton, MD

Apr 12, 2017

#7

• Apr 12, 2017

• #7

The alternator may have called it quits.

 

85ragtop

BTW, I like dudes.

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Apr 12, 2017

#8

• Apr 12, 2017

• #8

I will say your shaking is two fold by what you described. First I would say yes you need the tires balanced. Two you most likely have a lot of runout in the rotors. Any decent shop can tell you if they are thick enough to be turned or if they are too close to discard and you should replace them.

 

D

Dylan Cole

New Member

May 15, 2016

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1

Apr 13, 2017

#9

• Apr 13, 2017

• #9

85ragtop said:

I will say your shaking is two fold by what you described. First I would say yes you need the tires balanced. Two you most likely have a lot of runout in the rotors. Any decent shop can tell you if they are thick enough to be turned or if they are too close to discard and you should replace them.

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yea I'm going to take it to the shop today, it runs for about 5 mins ish if I boost it with another vehicle so I don't think its my battery so I'm pretty sure y alternator is shot so I'm looking for one now, any ideas on where to get one for fairly decent price, American muscle was saying 199.99 usd for one brand new... but I don't got that amount at the moment and I need my car for the weekend so I'm feeling I'm pooched

 

D

Dylan Cole

New Member

May 15, 2016

15

0

1

Apr 13, 2017

#10

• Apr 13, 2017

• #10

IIGood said:

The alternator may have called it quits.

Click to expand...

any ideas on where to get one for fairly decent price, American muscle was saying 199.99 usd for one brand new... but I don't got that amount at the moment and I need my car for the weekend so I'm feeling I'm pooched

 

IIGood

Founding Member

Aug 1, 1998

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Churchton, MD

Apr 13, 2017

#11

• Apr 13, 2017

• #11

@Dylan Cole

AutoZone is showing their cheapie brand, ValuCraft, for $114.99. They also have a DuraLast for $158.99. The DuraLast has a lifetime warranty...the ValuCraft is only a year. If you're in a pinch, one of those will at least get you back on the road.