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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-

Help School me on the classics...

  • Thread starter Thread starter fords2fast4u
  • Start date Start date Jan 20, 2007

fords2fast4u

Founding Member
Mar 27, 2000
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39
Mission Viejo, CA
Jan 20, 2007
#1
  • Jan 20, 2007
  • #1
BLUF: Tell me which car i should rebuild... in your own opinion.

So I've been into mustangs for years, but only the newer fox's and SN-95s... but now me and a friend are going to undertake a project. I said that we needed something to do here at the USMA ( the military academy in NY ) and together we came up with the idea to rebuild a classic stang.

I've owned 4 mustangs (an 89 GT, 95 GTS, 88 GT t-tops, and my current 94 cobra) and i've built 5.0s before and know quite alot about them - but i know nothing about the oldies. So... I figured we'd do some research before we decide on which car to do.

He wants an earlier one 64-66 but i was thinking a 67-68. But can someone tell me the differences in the years? Also, we're thinking of taking the drive train (FI 5.0, t-45, 8.8) out of my car and putting it in whatever car, since i will be going with a whole new stroker windsor motor, tremec set up anyways.

Its going to be his car in the end, and he wants a coupe. I was tinkering around with the idea of a CS...

Just give me your thoughts on what car we should build - thanks guys.
 

'66 coupe

Founding Member
Aug 7, 2000
1,202
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59
Lakeland, Fl.
Jan 20, 2007
#2
  • Jan 20, 2007
  • #2
fords2fast4u said:
He wants an earlier one 64-66 but i was thinking a 67-68. But can someone tell me the differences in the years?
Click to expand...

Since he wants a coupe the car should be pretty affordable, depending on what you find. '65-'66 will be cheaper to restore as the '67-'68 reproduction pieces can cost quite a bit more.
If you decide to use a 6 cylinder car to save money on the initial purchase of the car, the '67-'68 will be easier to convert to handle the V8. But if you're planning on replacing EVERYTHING, it really won't matter which year you go with.

Of course, you may just have to base your decision on what you find in what price range.
Also the 8.8 will require some modification to fit. Maybe someone else can tell you which years an SN95 8.8 will fit into better.
 

fords2fast4u

Founding Member
Mar 27, 2000
1,426
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39
Mission Viejo, CA
Jan 21, 2007
#3
  • Jan 21, 2007
  • #3
So... I think the 65-66 ones are a little shorter? Is that right? Like, is it that the fenders are shorter, or the quaters?

Is there a good source for parts, like year One, or do you guys just go to salvages and local shops?

thanks again
 

'66 coupe

Founding Member
Aug 7, 2000
1,202
9
59
Lakeland, Fl.
Jan 21, 2007
#4
  • Jan 21, 2007
  • #4
fords2fast4u said:
So... I think the 65-66 ones are a little shorter? Is that right? Like, is it that the fenders are shorter, or the quaters?

Is there a good source for parts, like year One, or do you guys just go to salvages and local shops?

thanks again
Click to expand...

I know the '67-'68's are slightly wider, making room for bigger engines. Maybe someone else can chime in on length. A 5.0 will fit in either car just fine though.

For parts, I like National Parts Depot. I don't know where the closest location is to you, but I usually have my parts in a day or two.

You won't find much in salvage yards anymore. You may find stuff for your EFI transplant. You can sometimes find old Granadas and Comets to get disc brakes from; but I would almost just go with a kit made for the Mustang.

Restoration shops can sometimes be a good source for used parts.
 

krash kendall

Active Member
Nov 19, 2004
1,258
0
36
Aldergrove, B.C. Canada
Jan 22, 2007
#5
  • Jan 22, 2007
  • #5
The '65-'66 cars are by far the easier, cheaper car to rebuild as they are less refined and relatively plain compared to the later ones. However, the '67-'68 cars have safer brakes, better steering geometry, handle better, and you can drop almost any motor you want in them without having to worry about clearance issues. As said above though, restoration parts are a little pricier.

If it is going to be his car in the end anyway, you better start with the car he wants before investing the sweat equity.
 

66Restomod

New Member
Jan 4, 2007
11
0
1
Jan 22, 2007
#6
  • Jan 22, 2007
  • #6
krash kendall said:
The '65-'66 cars are by far the easier, cheaper car to rebuild as they are less refined and relatively plain compared to the later ones. However, the '67-'68 cars have safer brakes, better steering geometry, handle better, and you can drop almost any motor you want in them without having to worry about clearance issues. As said above though, restoration parts are a little pricier.

If it is going to be his car in the end anyway, you better start with the car he wants before investing the sweat equity.
Click to expand...

Ahhh...but the 64-66 were the first gens...while they are plain, they were first.

Just for reference on pricing (this may help you out later) I bought my 1966 289 V8 coupe for $1200 here in Texas...about $2500 later Its almost done...but I have done most of the body work and the car was painted in a home made paint booth. I dont know if you can do that in NY
 

1320stang

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1998
4,329
23
89
Edmond, Oklahoma
Jan 22, 2007
#7
  • Jan 22, 2007
  • #7
I think a '68 I-6 is what you ought to start with. I don't know about '65-'66 being that much cheaper than a '67-'68, or about parts being easier to find since the Elewhore craze hit. Just about every piece you can get for a early car, you can get for the later. A '67-'68 coupe is likely cheaper to buy initially than a '65-'66 for some reason. Your 8.8 will fit a '67-'68 with late model wheels whereas in a early car it'll have to be narrowed. The '67 was a crossover year for some things, steering spear, er, I mean shaft, front control arms, brakes, etc. A '68 will have the safety features designed into it, plus you can fit a bigger wheel/tire in the later than the earlier. Oh, I own a '65 coupe.
 
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