Help To Drag Race My Mustang

ked263 · Nov 4, 2013

hello everyone , long time since my last post here, busy with collage actually , anyway lets get to the point .

we have a local drag race competition around the corner now and I would like to join it for the first time .

my car is a 2003 mustang GT V8 AUTOMATIC tranny .

with the following mods

msd coils
crank pully
air intake
new ford racing pi intake
headers and mufflers
and diablo tune

the major thing here, is when I try accelerating on the road behind my home , it's about the half mile long and no other cars around me , so dont worry haha

I tried the following starts

1-foot on break and once released slam the gas
2-reving on neutral and engage the gear about 1500 and 2000 and 2500 rpm

both with and without the O/D

what happened is the car will stall for a second or two then kick down if I did the first thing

the car will kick hard sometimes would keep going fast most of the times would stall and to second on low speed so I lose all my power if I did the second one .

now what I am asking is I am sure that some of you drag an auto before, what is the best way to do it.

also what would be a good thing or mod to do to get better timeing and better lunch.

I have read about a built automatic tranny , but could not find any useful info about that.

Mr. Rustypwnz · Nov 4, 2013

a 3600 stall and some 4.10's would blow your mind lol.

Dugl · Nov 4, 2013

Mr. Rustypwnz said:
a 3600 stall and some 4.10's would blow your mind lol.

Definitely...if ya wanna get a Mustang up on it's hind legs and come out charging.

flstang65 · Nov 4, 2013

Wait, so let me see if I am tracking here. You sit at a stop with your foot on the accelerator and the car in neutral, you rev the engine to about 1500-2500 rpm's and drop it into gear while it is tach'd up like that?

jetmech807 · Nov 4, 2013

flstang65 said:
Wait, so let me see if I am tracking here. You sit at a stop with your foot on the accelerator and the car in neutral, you rev the engine to about 1500-2500 rpm's and drop it into gear while it is tach'd up like that?

Won't do it very many times. OP, don't ever do that again. Just a strong suggestion. Gears and more converter will fix you right up.

Sharad · Nov 4, 2013

Mr. Rustypwnz said:
a 3600 stall and some 4.10's would blow your mind lol.

^^This, along with tire & suspension upgrades.

flstang65 · Nov 4, 2013

Foot brake it, and tach it up then, release the brake.

This is my .02:
Full length sub frame connectors, gears, axles, urethane or solid housing bushings, solid upper and lower control arms, torque box reinforcements, leave the stock springs in until you are ready to do coil overs, torque converter and j mod the tranny(if you don't want to do a converter). If you want to go with an aftermarket tranny, I can get you a killer deal through my shop (if you are in the central fl area).

For the love of all things sacred and holy, don't ever do a neutral drop to your tanny like that again. You will be replacing it very soon if you keep that up.

ked263 · Nov 5, 2013

flstang65 said:
Foot brake it, and tach it up then, release the brake.

This is my .02:
Full length sub frame connectors, gears, axles, urethane or solid housing bushings, solid upper and lower control arms, torque box reinforcements, leave the stock springs in until you are ready to do coil overs, torque converter and j mod the tranny(if you don't want to do a converter). If you want to go with an aftermarket tranny, I can get you a killer deal through my shop (if you are in the central fl area).

For the love of all things sacred and holy, don't ever do a neutral drop to your tanny like that again. You will be replacing it very soon if you keep that up.

Sorry for the late answer got a probability exam and was studying for it .
Thank you all for the comments ,I see what I did wrong here @flstang65 , don't worry never again , AS I said, was testing it , and failed
as for what are my options to go with minimal cost . as a collage student in my forth year , I am not making as much money to do BIG things,
as for my location I am in QATAR, I am sure you can find it on the map LOL, but all of my parts I am getting it from the US, via Aramex located in NY. and they charge me for the weight of the item..... so unless you can ship it to Qatar directly ( which would same me a lot of cash ) , NY is my other option .

I did ordered few parts from UPR and got them shipped via UPS to me with a really good shipping cost.

Sharad · Nov 5, 2013

ked263 said:
I did ordered few parts from UPR and got them shipped via UPS to me with a really good shipping cost.

Excellent choice!!

sneaky98gt · Nov 6, 2013

Looks like I'm too late, but suspension upgrades will do little or nothing for straight-line acceleration on an automatic car with the stock torque converter. I run 11s at 120+ on a 100% stock Mustang suspension (Bullitt suspension actually, which 'should' be worse for straight lines). My car makes a very large amount of torque just off idle (roots blower, even had a small shot of nitrous on top of it for a while), and my launching procedure goes something like: foot on brake, bring it up to 1500 rpm, and on green (or 3rd yellow), go instantaneous wide-open-throttle. It hooks EVERY time. Suspension mods would do exactly 0 for improving my times.

sethahoward · Nov 6, 2013

The only thing I have to add is, play with your launch rpms when you foot break it. My car would actually launch better at about 1100-1200 rpms as opposed to trying to get them up higher, I was actually able to cut a 1.83 60' time on the stock converter. The j- mod helps but since you have a programmer I would just use that to firm up the shifts. I would also agree with sneaky, suspension mods are a waste of money for a car like yours looking to go in a straight line. Mine is also 100% stock and I run low 12's. good luck

Dugl · Nov 6, 2013

sneaky98gt said:
Looks like I'm too late, but suspension upgrades will do little or nothing for straight-line acceleration on an automatic car with the stock torque converter. I run 11s at 120+ on a 100% stock Mustang suspension (Bullitt suspension actually, which 'should' be worse for straight lines). My car makes a very large amount of torque just off idle (roots blower, even had a small shot of nitrous on top of it for a while), and my launching procedure goes something like: foot on brake, bring it up to 1500 rpm, and on green (or 3rd yellow), go instantaneous wide-open-throttle. It hooks EVERY time. Suspension mods would do exactly 0 for improving my times.

If I set-up my 98 5 SPD stick like yours and run slicks....could I possibly run 10's ? My Shelby buddy needs to lose a few times . lol

sneaky98gt · Nov 6, 2013

sethahoward said:
The only thing I have to add is, play with your launch rpms when you foot break it. My car would actually launch better at about 1100-1200 rpms as opposed to trying to get them up higher, I was actually able to cut a 1.83 60' time on the stock converter. The j- mod helps but since you have a programmer I would just use that to firm up the shifts. I would also agree with sneaky, suspension mods are a waste of money for a car like yours looking to go in a straight line. Mine is also 100% stock and I run low 12's. good luck

I cut 1.72-1.74 when I was spraying a 35 shot, stock converter, stock gears, and 17" Nitto drag radials. On just the blower, I've cut 1.77-1.79 fairly regularly. I think with recent changes (3.73 gears, ported blower), and if I can get my tuner to get the tune like I want, I think it's going to cut low 1.7s with just the blower. Hopefully run mid 11s at 121-122.

And yes, you are 100% correct about playing with the rpm. I can build mine up to around 1900 at the track, but it normally works best around 1400-1500.

Dugl said:
If I set-up my 98 5 SPD stick like yours and run slicks....could I possibly run 10's ? My Shelby buddy needs to lose a few times . lol

With my motor/blower setup?

In a max effort combo, I think it could happen. I trapped 120 last time out, and that was before the ported blower (which picked up almost 30 rwhp on the dyno). If 10 hp = 1 mph, then that should put it trapping 122 conservatively. That's at full weight in full street trim. Do some basic weight reduction, lightweight wheels and tires, little suspension mods, and some stiff launches, and I think it could get there. Would take low 1.6 or high 1.5 60's I think to get it there.

ked263 · Nov 13, 2013

Ok, I think I have small Idea of what should be done next,
just for info this car is for daily use, also it's my only car,
and will try to see my times with foot on break foot on gas, and see what happened ,

last night I went with a friend who asked for help to program his 2012 5.0 auto, and I put a SCT tune in it , and he tested his car with the new challenger hemi Manual with airfilter , straight pipes and tune
the 5.0 got tune, air filter corsa mufflers and simislicks , I can tell,,, we did a very good job , tested straight line at 40 and at 60km/h, the mustang was able to give about 100meters gap

Help To Drag Race My Mustang

ked263

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Mr. Rustypwnz

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Dugl

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flstang65

jetmech807

Sharad

ALWAYS choose the V over the P!!! Wait... what?

flstang65

ked263

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Sharad

ALWAYS choose the V over the P!!! Wait... what?

sneaky98gt

sethahoward

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Dugl

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sneaky98gt

ked263

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