Help Value This Mustang, Considering Trading My Atv For It

I miss my LTZ400... That car isn't worth that much without an interior. He would need to give me cash on his end because it will cost you about 1k to get that interior right depending what was stolen or is this the car after everything was put back together?

I don't think it will effect the value for resale so long as it's a clean car. In Washington State vehicles that are reported stolen and recovered are branded the same way. As long as it's not wrecked (salvaged) then it makes no difference to me. People steal chit all the time. So, is it worth it to you?

How does it run?
Does it have full length subframes?
Inspect the torque boxes to make sure they're not torn.
Look at the wiring and make sure it's not hacked.

Edit....Elarm1 has a point....Does the car come as shown in the pics with the interior? Or is there no interior?

In my opinion, NO INTERIOR equals walk away!

I wouldn't mess with and thing with a non clean title but that's me. Besides the car is prob worth 3500. My buddy just got 2800 for his 06 450.

If this is your dream car you are going to keep forever, i'd say you want a clean title.
If this a toy you will mess with for a while then get rid of, i see no harm.

The car looks pretty decent, although seat looks ripped, AC is missing and for some reason it looks to sit high in the front.
IMO it's about a $3000 car.

I would not pay 3k for a car with un-clean title. I wouldn't trade I would sell you ATV then hunt with cash in hand for a better car.

The rip in the driver's seat will cost you ~$75-$150 to fix depending on what else is bad that didn't show in with a quick casual examination.

The question is what else happened during the joy ride while it was stolen. Did the car end up submerged in water? Was it wrecked and then repaired? Was it found with drugs in it? If so, get stopped and because you are a young guy with a muscle car, the police do a roadside search and find some remnants from the thief's joy ride. Too many unasked and unanswered questions. At a very minimum, ask to see the police report about the recovery of the car.

If you are satisfied that the car didn't sustain significant damage, have a really good shop examine the car and give you a report on the car's condition. That includes a smog check if there are smog inspections in your area. If it passes to your satisfaction, buy the car and pay the shop's fee. If it doesn't, walk away and let the other guy pick up the shop bill.

Things to look out for:
Results of a code dump from the computer. If you post the numerical results and I will post the problem/fix and if possible, the parts cost to repair.
T5 5 speed manual transmission (syncros go bad, mostly 3rd gear) Transmission tends to be finicky about going into 3rd gear during normal driving.
TFI Module (Thin Film Ignition module - mounts on the distributor. When the engine warms up, you have a high speed miss).
Electric door locks (PM me for the quick and inexpensive fix)
O2 sensors(oxygen sensors) They are good for about 60,000 miles and start to go down hill after that.
TPS Sensor (Throttle Position Sensor) causes flaky problems with idle & acceleration.
Harmonic Balancer – they separate between the hub and outer ring. A harmonic balancer puller is a must have to change it. You can rent or borrow a puller from most of the larger auto parts stores.
Water pump mount bolts – they corrode and shear off when you try to change the water pump.
Rear oil seal on the engine – lots of parts to remove to get to a $20 seal.
Power steering pump – the pumps are noisy and the pulley requires some special tools to remove and install. If you have the tools, they are easy to do. Again, the larger auto parts stores will rent or loan the tools for the pulley.
Power Steering rack - it is hard to get the toe in set so that you can drive the car to the shop to get it properly aligned.
Suspension – the front and rear suspension has very few problems if the car hasn’t been wrecked or seen a lot of drag strip runs. The drag strip runs tend to distort and tear the mount points for the rear axle control arms. Revving the engine up to 4000 RPM and dumping the clutch with slicks or drag radials tends to break things.
Significant rust in hidden areas: front shock strut area, rear shock strut area, rear axle mount points, underside floor pan

Paint looks awful on the 86. Probably cost more to paint it than the car is worth.

On the first car, why would a 50,000 mile car need a rebuilt engine?

Sell the quad, put a few more bucks together and buy a better starting point than both these cars.

If it passes jrichker 's test, it looks like a fun place to start from. Rust free ones are getting hard to find!

Are you in Ocala? If so broaden your search to Tampa, Orlando, and Jacksonville. Some seriously nice foxes come out of there.