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Help with bellhousing issue.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Voodoodollz
  • Start date Start date Jan 7, 2020
  • Tags Tags
    bell housing c4 swap
V

Voodoodollz

New Member
Jan 7, 2020
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Sweden
Jan 7, 2020
#1
  • Jan 7, 2020
  • #1
I just got myself a C4 tranny.
Ive noticed that when i try to bolt the bellhousing to the tranny the prop shaft axle will stop turning?
how much should a shaft turn? it goes quite smooth to turn one side, but harder the other.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
Aug 25, 2016
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polk county florida
Jan 7, 2020
#2
  • Jan 7, 2020
  • #2
Welcome to stangnet
now a little more info is needed like what year, engine size and why you are using a c4 trans
 
V

Voodoodollz

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Jan 7, 2020
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Jan 8, 2020
#3
  • Jan 8, 2020
  • #3
General karthief said:
Welcome to stangnet
now a little more info is needed like what year, engine size and why you are using a c4 trans
Click to expand...
Ohh sorry. English is not my native language.
Its a 63 Fairlane with 302 engine. It came with a broken AOD tranny. I got the c4 that has been renovated for a good price.
I noticed today that i probably cant use the tourqe converter that i had in my AOD. But why wont the propshaft turn as soon as i start to screw on the bellhousing to the tranny
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
Aug 25, 2016
27,853
10,530
203
polk county florida
Jan 8, 2020
#4
  • Jan 8, 2020
  • #4
Sounds like the torque converter is either not seated in the spline inside the trans or the hub is not seated in the crankshaft.
Can you stick your fingers between the bell housing and the torque converter, then it is not seated into the trans.
Pictures?
 
M

Mackel

New Member
Jan 4, 2020
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Montana
Jan 11, 2020
#5
  • Jan 11, 2020
  • #5
Voodoodollz said:
I just got myself a C4 tranny.
Ive noticed that when i try to bolt the bellhousing to the tranny the prop shaft axle will stop turning?
how much should a shaft turn? it goes quite smooth to turn one side, but harder the other.
Click to expand...
 
M

Mackel

New Member
Jan 4, 2020
4
0
1
Montana
Jan 11, 2020
#6
  • Jan 11, 2020
  • #6
Sounds like you'll have to center the bellhousing to the crankshaft's end . There are many vidoes that outline the process on YouTube . I looked at quite a few before I began . Summit Racing has the dial indicator you'll need- unless you have one . I'd call them at their Tech choice on the phone . I have a '07 V6 & 5 speed manual , I questioned the alignment & found the stock locating pins on the back of the block didn't allow for the needed adjustment to get good alignment , I had a local machinist friend machine new pins I cut that essentially are eccentric , but adjustable . Once I found where the high/low was , I set them accordingly , using a Fine Sharpie Pen that I'd marked for ' high & low ' . I nailed the runout on the first time - frankly was amazed it happened - I expected at least a few ' take er off's & out er back on's ' . My bellhousing had been .007 out , with stock pins . In your case , check out Summit for a ' Quick Time ' bellhousing , I was told by some Ford folks that they made an install & centering task much easier . You have a C4 , so you must have an earlier 'stang , sometimes - as I've read - one can drill the mount & pin holes slightly oversize and adjust to suit . I balked at the idea myself , especially at the locating pin holes- but others have had success . I can say I got lucky ! I had room enough with all holes ' as stock ' but using the eccentric pins . There are eccentric pins available from quite a few sources - make sure ya index the high/low so you can see the mark with the bellhousing in place ( usually you can - if the hole isn't drilled all the way thru , you likely can ( carefully ) drill it thru so you can affirm they haven't moved during the trial fit . On mine , I'm going back into the clutch assy to replace a hydraulic line's holder - it's plastic - somehow the clip's snap tang came undone . Also I want to check the roller bearing in the crank end & the tranny input shaft's 'nose' that stick in there & check the wear marks and see if my work is okay ; there's normally a wear mark on it where the roller bearing rides on the input shaft . If the mark- or marks are equal , or nearly so- It's all good . This job is/can be one fickle dickle stick , but it was at least interesting . I'd try the stock bellhousing first & see what ya have to work with , and be ready to go from there . Good Luck & don't hesitate to call the Tech Guy at Summit , they've never steered me wrong .
 
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