Help With Clicking Noise?

If what I think I heard is what you're talking about, I'd call that more of a "knock" than a "click."

My first guess would be a rod bearing.

It certainly doesn't sound promising.

trinity_gt said:

If what I think I heard is what you're talking about, I'd call that more of a "knock" than a "click."

My first guess would be a rod bearing.

It certainly doesn't sound promising.

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Yep, sounds like a spun rod bearing. Bad news for sure, but there are a few other possibilites.

When the engine is STONE cold, remove your coil packs and check to see if any of your spark plugs have come loose. They will tick or rattle before they shoot out of the head most of the time.

Could be something related to the timing gear, but that is not as likely. If you REALLY want to check that out, remove the accessories and pull the timing cover... but like I said, I don't think that is where the problem is.

If the spark plugs check back tight, and not loose... check your oil and look for metal shavings in the oil that is on the dipstick. If there are shavings, plan on a rebuild or new engine.

xXFalcoXx said:

Goddamn. I just got this car.

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Sorry to hear that man. Hopefully it isn't what it sounds like.

that sounds like a rod bearing for sure.........

xXFalcoXx said:

Alright thanks guys. Well anyone got the hookups for new engines? haha

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Fortunately, Ford used the 4.6 in everything so wrecking yard examples of PI 4.6s are a dime a dozen. Depending on what you find, you might have to swap some parts such as the intake manifold, front cover and crank damper from your existing engine.

This assumes the problem is terminal. You might consider dropping the pan and inspecting the rods for excessive clearance to verify the suspected failure before dropping coin on a replacement motor.

What happens when a rod bearing goes bad?

xxFalcoxx can you be more specific?

Can anyone be more specific?

Thank you!

Thanks for your reply.

I don't think I have this issue, but I figure i learn about it and educate myself. Honestly, I probably won't even know if I have this problem or not and I can't hear any difference from the video.

How would I know and how can I tell?

I've read that the modular is somewhat susceptible to this problem if the engine is run at fairly high RPM for a sustained period of time AND the oil level has been allowed to get low. What happens, so the story goes, is that the oil pan ends up being emptied (or nearly so) by the timing chains acting like an oil escalator filling the heads up (which don't drain fast enough) and leaving the pickup in the sump susceptible to sucking air. Oil pressure is momentarily reduced and metal to metal contact can occur at the journals.

Bottom line for mods is to keep the oil level at the full-line on the stick at all times.

trinity_gt said:

I've read that the modular is somewhat susceptible to this problem if the engine is run at fairly high RPM for a sustained period of time AND the oil level has been allowed to get low. What happens, so the story goes, is that the oil pan ends up being emptied (or nearly so) by the timing chains acting like an oil escalator filling the heads up (which don't drain fast enough) and leaving the pickup in the sump susceptible to sucking air. Oil pressure is momentarily reduced and metal to metal contact can occur at the journals.

Bottom line for mods is to keep the oil level at the full-line on the stick at all times.

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Yep, I ALWAYS have that in the back of my mind when I am going WOT for a sustained period of time. I usually run 1/4-1/2 quart over the reccomendation also.

From hearing that engine noise - with headphones on - I wouldn't drive the car at all. It is straining and you can hear the friction. Definitely not the sound of an exhaust leak, noisy lifters, or fouled injectors. You can pull a junkyard 4.6 PI motor for probably 500 dollars?