Help with Clutch Setup

[Ferf]

Here is what I have:

- 1965 Mustang
- 347 Stroker
- Tremec TKO Transmission
- Quicktime Scattershield (P/N RM-6065)
- Master Power Brakes Brake Booster and Dual-Res Master Cylinder

I originally planned on using the stock clutch linkage setup on the car. However, I just discovered that witht he Quicktime bellhousing that I need to use a cable clutch setup.

My first question is do you guys recommed using a cable clutch or hydraulic clutch (if even possible with my setup)? Second, what are you recommendations for cable or hydraulic clutch kits?

 

[j69302]

I have modern drivelines cable clutch.. Very heavy duty cable, I would be surprised if it ever broke. with a diaphragm style clutch, the pedal is stiff but not hard.

Long enough to clear anything in the engine bay, it isnt very noticeable if you paint the bracket to match your firewall. Just need to make sure your headers dont go inline of the cable guide on the bellhousing. Modern driveline will be able to tell you if your headers are compatible or can recommend any that will work.

Also you will need a late model, diaphragm style clutch with the late model clutch fork.

I have a 69 with a 302, the only thing I had to clearance was the inner cowl panel behind the dash.. this was easily "self" clearanced just by letting the lever that bolts to the clutch pedal hit the underside of the cowl panel and dent it out of the way.


They make hydraulic conversions as well, but I dont know how big your power brake booster is. You might run ingot clearance issues with the clutch m/c

 

[65coupe408w]

If you can still get them I would recommend a hydraulic clutch setup. I am running that on my T5 and love it. Not too much pedal effort and its holding back my 408.

 

[Shakin66]

I have a T-56 and went with a Mcleod Hyd. clutch. I am really happy with the pedal effort and adjustability. The only thing is you HAVE to set it up right or you will be removing the transmission....Dont ask how I know

 

[tx65coupe]

I have the MD clutch cable and agree that its a well made part.

 

[jcode68]

+1 on the hydraulic clutch. Have a 347 backed by a T5 and used the JME hydraulic clutch. I don't think JME offers these anymore, but there are other options out there. Not only is the pedal effort and feel like a modern vehicle, but you don't have any clearance problems or cosmetic issues that the cable clutch present. If these don't matter, then you will save a few bucks by going the cable route. For me, I would go hydraulic again without question.

 

[Ferf]

I am leaning toward the hydraulic clutch setup. The problem that I may have is that I am using power brakes. The power brake setup came from Master Power Brakes. While the power booster uses a bracket that moves the booster about 3" away from the firewall, I am not sure if there will be enough clearance to install the hydraulic master cylinder through the hole used by the original clutch linkage.

If anyone is using the Master Power Brake power booster and a hydraulic clutch then please let me know if you had any install issues. A picture of brake booster is below.

 

[jcode68]

Do your homework for sure. I have power brakes as well and I spent considerable time researching to make sure I got the right brake booster which would fit with the hydraulic master. I am sure ther is a solution available, spend some time searching the forum, there are a lot of threads on hydraulic clutch setups. He'll, I probably posted 10 questions when I was doing research and having trouble bleeding the damn thing