Help with drag suspension build up. Put me in the 12s

thehueypilot said:
A lot of the racers I know run without the tubes but if your car produces a lot of torque the tire will actually spin on the rim. To fix this you must put screws into the rim to hold the tires in place which then requires a tube. I tried to glue the tire to the rim with weatherstrip adhesive with mixed results because I don't want to drill my nice rims. I also mark the valve stem location and adjust the air pressure to keep it from spinning. I find that 16.5 psi works well so far.

I just let them spin. I mark them at the beginning of every event and what I've seen mostly is they'll spin about 3" for each pass but then they'll settle down and quit spinning on the rim so much. I run them at about 10 lbs hot. After they settle down I usually get them rebalanced. I know guy running 9s without rim screws.
 
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EMW150 said:
Like I said above, I'd try loosening the front of the car first. Watching the vid it looked like the car had decent initial hook but when it didn't transfer weight it unloaded and spun and then rehooked giving it the seesaw look you mentioned. That's a good starting point for you. See how it works and then go from there. Personally I think you're good on springs for now.
Thanks for your help everyone.:nice: I will go ahead and put in the 90/10 and hopefully that will sovle my problem, I will report back with my findings.
 
Curse said:
I want to break 12s with the current combination on my car now. I think I have the power to do it, but I think my suspension is holding me back, as I am getting almost no weight transfer right now. I have gone a best of 13.3 so far with me letting off at about 40-50 feet before the finish line. I think she has a 13.1-13.2 in here right now (sorry don’t have MPH or 60 times). My car’s suspension is in pretty rough shape. The front of the car is real stiff, and does not want to rise up at all.
The front consists of stock struts, 4 cylinder springs, no sway bar, battery in the trunk, aluminum heads and AC/smog stuff gone.
The rear of the car does not want to squat at all.
The rear consists of AZ GT shocks, Lakewood Traction Action control arms, stock upper control arms, stock sway bar and welded SFCs. I think the PO cut the stock springs as they look short.
Basically, my car launches like a car with lowering springs. I need some help picking a good combination of parts that can get my car to weight transfer and get me into the 12s. I need to know which parts I should keep and which I should change. I’m on a budget, so I can’t go crazy buy coilovers and tubular k-members. This is my weekend toy, so I don’t care how it rides all that much. Any suggestions would be highly appreciated.
Sorry for the novel. Here is a video of my car at the track, so you guys can see what I am talking about. This is leaving @ 5000 RPM off a two-step on M/T 26/8.5 slicks with 15 PSI in them.
http://s31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/CursedSC/?action=view&current=victormustang.flv
Curse - I was wondering if your 4 cyl. front springs lowered your car. And if you did how much did you cut off of them? How much did it lower your car? Sorry to budge in with all these questions. I also have a little problem with weight transfer as my springs seem to be too stiff also(eibach sportlines) for the front. As you mentioned in one of your posts that your car see-saws after it takes off, mine does that also. I also have the sway bar removed and have adjustable struts, but I think my springs are hurting my 60 foots. I have ran a best of 1.81 60' 12.57 1320' with MT drag radials, I think my 60's should be in the 1.7's. Your response would be appreciated, thanks.
 
Dmarstroker said:
Curse - I was wondering if your 4 cyl. front springs lowered your car. And if you did how much did you cut off of them? How much did it lower your car? Sorry to budge in with all these questions. I also have a little problem with weight transfer as my springs seem to be too stiff also(eibach sportlines) for the front. As you mentioned in one of your posts that your car see-saws after it takes off, mine does that also. I also have the sway bar removed and have adjustable struts, but I think my springs are hurting my 60 foots. I have ran a best of 1.81 60' 12.57 1320' with MT drag radials, I think my 60's should be in the 1.7's. Your response would be appreciated, thanks.
My uncut 4 cyl. springs lowered my car 1 1/4 inch. My rear springs were cut, not my fronts.