Help with EGR solenoid on 94 Mustang

[Telewanger]

Hi,

I bought this car from a lady. She got divorced. Her husband used to do a lot of tinkering with it, so I do not know a lot about it, and she can't tell me much. I believe that I got the "Hot Start" issues resolved this weekend. The car would either act like it had a dead battery or just crank and crank and not start until it got cool again. I replaced a few sensors, that some guys on Mustang forums said might be the problem, cleaned the battery to engine ground, distributor cap and rotor, replaced coil, cleaned throttle body and MAF this week.

I am not sure that the EGR is doing anything. I can't find the EGR solenoid. I bought one for a 1994, but nothing under the hood looks like it. .... Also, does a car with a larger cam usually crank over a little more to start? I know nothing about the cam, since I didn't install it. This car has always taken at least 3 or 4 seconds to fire up. It has no timing pointer. I need to buy one and check the timing this week. Yeah, I know! ... I need to clean and detail the engine soon.

Until this weekend, the car would idle over 1000 rpm. After getting warm, the computer would make it drop and then it would cam lope really nice. After changing these parts, it does not do that anymore. It just stays above 1000 and the computer doesn't seem to change it to a lower idle anymore....... Hum??? ..... I didn't turn any screws on anything, just plugged in and replaced things.

Here is a video of the EGR solenoid that I bought and don't know where it goes? ..... Any help will be great.

Mustang Starting Problem

 

[General karthief]

Here is some help to get this pony running better.
The 94-5 stuff is highlighted because they are a little different than the fox cars, read through it to get familiar the do it step by step.
take notes and asked questions in this thread if you get stuck on something.

Help me create the "Surging Idle Checklist"

Updated 26-Oct-2019 to clarify creeping idle RPM increase as the car is being driven. Many of you are familiar with the "Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs" checklist and the No Crank Checklist. They are very effective in finding and eliminating the problems by use of...

forums.stangnet.com

 

[RaggedGT]

If it’s still installed in the factory spot, it should be under the air box kinda near the tfi, right at the connection for the hard plastic vacuum lines. If you follow the vac line from the egr,up the pass. Side fender and under the air box, you should find it

 

[VibrantRedGT]

I'm not going to write out how you can get the idle into the 850 range. General Karthief has linked the best used item ever on this forum. We all go through this checklist. The 94-95 is highlighted so follow that one. I'll take a guess and say your TPS is out of range and or your can adjust the idle manually with the set screw on the throttle body. BUT...before doing that go through that checklist.

 

[Telewanger]

Thanks Guys!


After work yesterday, I fired up the car and it started just fine. The code reader manual said to bring the car up to operating temp, then shut it off. After it was warmed up, I waited 5 minutes and tried to start the car. It would crank and crank and would not start up at all. I hooked up the code reader, pushed in the clutch, turned on the ignition, and did a scan. It came back with code 558 ( EGR Valve Regulator solenoid circuit fault ) and that was all. I will have to remove the tire and get to it in the passenger fender well area. I have the new solenoid as you see in the video. ... I finally got it started back up and it was running great for 2 minutes, then the engine just shut off, like I turned it off with the key, so I couldn't do the engine running code test.

Someone said that if the EGR valve is being held wide open, or stuck, or the solenoid, it may not allow for combustion when trying to start the car? ...... The EGR looks really rusty and the car has been sitting in a garage before I bought it. I ordered a new EGR last night, since mine is 26 years old. I need to get the SOB running so I can do a engine running test to see what else is wrong.

 

[revhead347]

Thanks Guys!


After work yesterday, I fired up the car and it started just fine. The code reader manual said to bring the car up to operating temp, then shut it off. After it was warmed up, I waited 5 minutes and tried to start the car. It would crank and crank and would not start up at all. I hooked up the code reader, pushed in the clutch, turned on the ignition, and did a scan. It came back with code 558 ( EGR Valve Regulator solenoid circuit fault ) and that was all. I will have to remove the tire and get to it in the passenger fender well area. I have the new solenoid as you see in the video. ... I finally got it started back up and it was running great for 2 minutes, then the engine just shut off, like I turned it off with the key, so I couldn't do the engine running code test.

Someone said that if the EGR valve is being held wide open, or stuck, or the solenoid, it may not allow for combustion when trying to start the car? ...... The EGR looks really rusty and the car has been sitting in a garage before I bought it. I ordered a new EGR last night, since mine is 26 years old. I need to get the SOB running so I can do a engine running test to see what else is wrong.

Sounds like you are on the right path. Doing the basic tune up stuff first was a good idea too. The EGRs get full of crud, and that keeps them from closing too.

Kurt