Help with Lift Points

gaprabbit

Member
Aug 10, 2021
33
3
18
So Cal
Hi all, noob here needing some help
I just bought a QuickJack system and I want to lift my 1988 4 cylinder up for the first time.
I watched Danny Johnson's Garage video that explained the lift points (
View: https://youtu.be/mKy1rNRRMRk
) but I got these metal plates that go under the front subframe and behind the floor panel on the torque box. Can someone confirm here if these are the places to put the rubber spacer blocks?
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20210818_232134707~2.jpg
    PXL_20210818_232134707~2.jpg
    456.3 KB · Views: 74
  • PXL_20210818_232508518~2.jpg
    PXL_20210818_232508518~2.jpg
    430.3 KB · Views: 70
  • Sponsors (?)


Once they fold over you may just as well use them as unfold them and not


Once they fold over, the structural integrity is lost and you run the risk of damage if jacking from here. Often times, jacking from this spot even with the pinch welds intact will cause the front fender to bow out slightly causing a large gap between the fender/door seam. The structural integrity of this location as a jack point depends on this pinch weld maintaining it's factory shape perpendicular to the load.

I would honestly recommend not jacking from here at all
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 4 users
I would honestly recommend not jacking from here at all
Agreed. When i was a teenager i jacked the car up from all the wrong spots.
Certainly will cause fender alignment issues.
You will even bend up the frame rails.

IMO, get subframe connectors and jacking rails. Jack the car up from those locations.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users
I'm with the others. I've had those spots fold. If the factory jack isn't on flat ground it'll bend the too. One of the fist things I learned was not to use the pinch welds for anything other than the factory jack on flat ground.
 
We have all had them fold which mashes the fenders
My 69 has the subframe bent up a bit from hoisting over the years
Leave yours on the ground if you want
The factory lift points (the spotwelds) are there for a reason
I will still use them most of the time
 
My lift has rubber pads so I used to lift on the front and rear subframe with no issue. After I installed the MM full length subframe connectors, I lift on those at the front and rear with no issue, it's very solid.

If my lift didn't have rubber pads I'd use a small block of wood between the lift and the subframe connector to protect the subframe connector.

To each their own.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users