Have you checked the ins/outs at the switch to ensure your wiring and splices are sound?
Are the fuses and fusible links good?
If you have voltage out of the headlight switch (the white-light feed is red/yellow IIRC, though your year could vary), then the MF switch is the place to look. You can get a new hardshell connector for it if you need to.
Good luck.
Are the fuses and fusible links good?
If you have voltage out of the headlight switch (the white-light feed is red/yellow IIRC, though your year could vary), then the MF switch is the place to look. You can get a new hardshell connector for it if you need to.
Good luck.
You should really go back and solder the joints, versus crimping them. The problem with how they melt is due to resistance, and the fact that Ford should have used a relay instead of running the full power source for the lights through the switch. The multifunction switch is a good next place to start, but you should check the headlight switch to see if it's bad first. It's never fun just throwing parts at it and hoping for the best. Repairs start getting expensive and frustrating that way.
Did you have 12 volts leaving the low-beam terminal (using a DMM or test light which is independantly grounded)?
No, I think Red/yellow is the headlight switch feed into the MF switch. This wire then gets switched by the MF switch itself. Low is now red/blk and high is green/blk (or something along those lines).
None of those wires will have a 'ground'. They are simply hot feeds which are grounded on the other side of the resistance in the circuit (your headlight filaments).
As for diagnostics, if you have power into the MF switch (Red/Yellow) but not out (Red/blk or Grn/blk - your colors might vary), AND all terminals are tight on the connectors, then the MF switch is the place to look.
The terminals do sometimes back-out of the connectors.
Good luck.
I have no idea what the problem is on your car. I just try to suggest the testing I'd do, but I'm not the most articulate guy so that's kinda tough.
If I'm reading your post correctly, the MF switch might have failed. If so, you have power at the feed from the headlight switch to the MF switch (Red/Yellow). And this wire is seated in the MF switch nicely. But then the low beam wire (red/blk) or high beam (grn/blk) wire do not show 12 volts while Red/yellow is hot.
If you can still use flash-to-pass and it works properly (it uses a different power source, but should illuminate low and high beams simultaneously), that suggests the wiring leaving the MF switch is fine.
Sometimes jiggling the Turn signal stalk helps make the switch work. Also note that if you swap in a new switch, the tilt cars use a different switch than non-tilt cars.
I would also find it curious that both the hdlt and MF switch failed at the same time. Are you sure the terminal backing out was not thought to be the hdlt switch (meaning the Hdlt switch was actually ok)? That'd be an easy assumption to make, hence why I asked.
Good luck.