HELP with sick pony

i think you have two ideas going here.
when you run codes, i think the car is supposed to be in neutral, and if it is not, it knows it.

there is a clutch safety switch - it is on the back of the clutch pedal. when the pedal is pushed, it closes the switch and allows juice to flow through the starter solenoid trigger wire, to allow you to start the car.

i did not look up the code you got, so im just rambling about the different switches.

good luck.

ninety15.0 said:

Thanks for the reply...but im not sure what to make of it. i am pretty sure that the car was in nuetral...but even if it wasnt would that make the difference? would this clutch switch or nuetral/drive shift make a difference in the way the car was performing? I mean it just sucks and doesnt pull above 3grand!! any other suggestions would be great thanks!

Click to expand...

i was just trying to explain what i thought the codes you got meant. Jrichker, et al, are much better at deciphering codes than i am.

how does it fall on its face? like does it start missing, or just feel like it hit a wall? it does not appear that the codes are gonna help you out, hence my asking. as far as i know, the switches discussed have nothing to do with your actual clutch or anything with performance. all it means is that the switch was open or closed when it should have been the other way around (like if you left it in gear and it was supposed to be in neutral).

or do you think your clutch is slipping? if so, let us know - there are some tests to try for that.

please give more info, along with pertinent mods (esp anything done lately). good luck.

your thinking on the fuel starvation is a good idea. either get a 20 buck gauge (permanent) from Jegs or get a diagnostic gauge from the parts store. you could chase your tail for awhile before finding starvation w/o a gauge.

you could also have clogged cats and a lot of other issues. hook up a vac gauge and rev the motor to about 3K. keep the pedal steady and note if the vacuum drops ONCE you have it held at 3K (vac will drop while you rev it up, but stabilize once you get the throttle steady). if vac drops, that suggests an exhaust restriction (i.e., clogged cats).

for clutch slipping. when you hammer the throttle in gear, do you notice the motor revving faster than you accelerate (as if you were slipping the clutch)?
put it in 5th, apply ebrake, make sure you have room ahead of you, and let the clutch out. it should stall out quickly. if it does not die out real abruptly, that suggests the clutch is slipping.

but for a high rpm slippage, the first test is better. it is kind of a feel thing.
im too tired to think. good luck.

for FP gauge, i think the part number is 555-41013 for 100 PSI and 555-41012 for 60 psi. you will need some AN fittings and line (braided is recommended). i dont have one of these (though i mean to do one). i have a diagnostic gauge (parts store - about 30 bucks. you might be able to get one loaned/rented [for free] from a parts store.).

i have a vac gauge in the car, but a mitivac works real well if you have one (and if you dont, you should get one. a nice 30 buck investment. makes brake bleeding a breeze).

grab a port on the vac tree (driver firewall) and check it out. but you not having cats, i agree with you - there should be no restrictions.

good luck.