Help with stainless brake lines

[palerider94]

I just put a set of prebent stainless lines from NPD on my car last weekend one of the lines had a leak - tightend down and cracked bottom of distibution block (bad luck).

Got another one from JJ mustang (used) was suppose to be off the same year but had smaller fittings. For the front got adapters, for the back took to local auto parts stores and had them reflared with smaller size fitting to fit block.

Well to make a long story short the lines the part store flared are leaking. Any tips on would be appreciated. Tried tightening and retightening - did not help. I probably should have sent the distribution block back but thought the parts store should be able to reflare with new fittings.

Any advice would be apreciated.

 

[67GTFB]

if the old block has any distortion or "gouges" from prior line installs on the brass "cones," you will not get a seal .... also, the flares on the pipe have to be perfectly circular and symmetrical, otherwise they will be very prone to leaks .... stainless is real hard to work with and is a killer on brass couplings .... I'd suggest getting a new block, ensuring all of the flares are done properly, and don't over tighten the flare nuts .... I just did a set of Classic Tube lines (from CJ Pony) with a new block (and hoses, etc) .... luckily, no leaks .... but the stainless tubes were difficult to get exactly perpendicular to and centered on each port - which is a must to ensure a good seal .... also, the flare nuts should be sized for the tubing (like 1/8") .... larger tubing hole in the flare nut will tend to lead to alignment problems and leaks .... the tube should just naturally go into proper position in a port, other wise the slight bending could lead to improper seating of the flare against the (brass) port cone (or whatever it's called) .... good luck !!!

 

[palerider94]

I think you are right - I'm getting a new block unfortunately for 1970 looks like fttings are different if power drums, regular drums, or disks. The new dist block is suppose to fit 68 thru 70 and disk thru drums - Hopefully CJs knows what lines go with the block. Thanks for the post.

 

[palerider94]

Got to work put your post was right on. Unfortuantely, can't get a new distribution block for 1970 power drums. Apparantely different size fitting than for power drums and not aftermarket available. Tried a couple of mustang bone yards - they told me power drums are pretty rare and they don't have them.

Ended up putting put brake line adapters on to make it work cause of gouges to old cones in block. Looks like the adapters bottomed out on block and sealed up. I originally did not think they would work cause the concave part of adapters was much deeper than than the cones on the block.

Also, the adapters were brass the wholes were slightly larger than holes on distribution block but smaller than the wholes you see in 1/4" adapters. But they seem to be holding up.


So far after a couple of test drives no leaks (knock on wood). One thing I did notice is parts store put 1/4 inch nuts on tube and tubing is 3/16 hopefully that does not come back to bite me. Was able to get best help from a NAPA autoparts stores. Autozone and advance were pretty much clueless.

Not too crazy by the whole set up - especially when it comes to brakes I want to be sure no problems. Definitley not concouse . I will monitor for awhile make sure it's safe.

In the mean time learned more about brakes than I can too.

Thanks for the reply.

 

[67GTFB]

sorry I haven't checked back over holiday .... btw, Happy New Year toa All!! .... I should have noted that Classic Tube will reflare tube ends with whatever fitting you need (for a slight fee of course) .... I found this out because one of my lines came with an incorrect fitting ... I called Classic Tube to note the discrepancy and they redid the line - no charge (because of their mistake) .... hope this will help others in future .... btw, the "cone" is called a "seat" .... also, the torque settings are like 10-12 ft-lbs for these fittings .... what one can get using a flare nut wrench (recommended btw) by hand .... cheers ...