Was hoping someone could help me out. What would cause the plugs to have black carbon stuff all over them? They were all clean yesterday. Also, when the car starts up it smells strongly of gas and dies if you take it off idle. Any idea what could be wrong? The TPS maybe? Thanks in advance for any help.
Help
- Thread starter tinas90lx
- Start date
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.
olymaster
New Member
Right On!! Thank You
thank you!! I used a test light to check the codes. it read trhat was all good then I realized the problem. Stupidity Leak!! it was my throttle body to EGR spacer gasket (didnt pull apart and replace, look good til moday when the nos shows up). figured i would have learned from about five years ago. just bypassed egr spacer water coolant tube to itself and no more fouled plugs. soory it took so long to respond, but was working on the car and went for a long drive to vent. Thanks again, learned alot!!!:>
thank you!! I used a test light to check the codes. it read trhat was all good then I realized the problem. Stupidity Leak!! it was my throttle body to EGR spacer gasket (didnt pull apart and replace, look good til moday when the nos shows up). figured i would have learned from about five years ago. just bypassed egr spacer water coolant tube to itself and no more fouled plugs. soory it took so long to respond, but was working on the car and went for a long drive to vent. Thanks again, learned alot!!!:>
