Coming from somebody who did the coilovers
the only thing I can say that is a definite advantage is easy ride height adjustability and ease of installation - it comes all assembled, of course. I'm wating for mine to settle in so I can finish setting the ride height. Everyone here will tell you that you can do the basic mods to the stock system and a negative wedge kit, tubular arms, etc., and you're there. If you want to be able to dial in your ride height go coilovers, otherwise, go GW.
I did the medium-high-buckage front suspension and steering with Unique Performance (TCP copy) coilovers and a Steeroids (not recommended, go with TCP) R&P. Take it from me, the extra money you spend on TCP will save you money at your shop or time on your own making it work.
So, I guess I'm voting GW with the TCP rack and pinion, that seems like it fits your goals and budget. Unless you want to splurge on the front and skimp elsewhere, then go with the TCP or UP coilovers, they're basically the same design but UP is a little more expensive.
As far as how the UP/TCP coilovers ride, they are fantastic, but I have a schizophrenic ride - coilovers & R&P up front, a rusty, patched, and non-subframed convertible floorpan, and then the stock unrestored rear.
Bottom line, for me at this point the front goes where I want it to go, (as much as my 15 year old Eagle ST 205s will give me traction to do) then all hell breaks loose. Case in point, I was trying out the cornering and then hit a bump that my front end ate up just find and my rear axle felt like it was on bungees - the car went to the outside of the turn then it felt like it pulled the axle along with it, a little too late. The back of the car literally felt like it jumped over. Very non-confidence-inspiring.
Follow the advice of the guys here, I just wanted to give you an idea of what happens if you do one without the other. I'll eventually get it all done, but the car's out of balance right now.
Joe
